Author Topic: wheel bearings  (Read 3456 times)

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Offline 2wheels

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wheel bearings
« on: May 23, 2018, 05:40:11 AM »
Has anyone found a way to grease the wheel bearings?

My rear wheel is off and the bearings feel good, but dry.
1970 CB750 K0 (I can't believe I tossed my duck tail seat in the trash 30 years ago)

Offline emlupi

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2018, 05:54:58 AM »
Probably better to simply replace them with sealed bearings and be done with it. I believe they have to come out for repacking with grease anyway.

Offline flybox1

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2018, 06:31:10 AM »
Many just opt for an All Balls shielded bearing kit, rather than repacking.  Less to worry about.  Less mess.
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Offline 2wheels

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2018, 07:22:53 AM »
Right, replacing the bearings is the easy answer.

The reason I question it is not because I,m cheap.  This if for my K0 bike.  It sees maximum 500 miles a year, usually less.
Also they are original bearings, and as I said they feel really smooth still.  The hub looks the same as the day it left the factory, perfect.
If I replace the bearings that will not be the case anymore.

I would really just like to get a little new grease in there.  Or maybe I will just leave it alone.
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Offline flybox1

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2018, 07:26:06 AM »
Right.  Glove up.  Repack it with bearing grease, and pound it back in.  ;D
'78 750K (F3 engine) PD42b's, Modified airbox w/K&N  filter, 40/110 jets, 1 needle shim, IMS@ 1 turn out. Kerker + Cone 18" QuietCore

Past Bikes
1974 550K0 (stock), 1973 CB350F (stock), 1983 Yamaha XS400K (POS)
77/78 cool 2 member #3
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Offline Deltarider

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2018, 07:48:32 AM »
Try greasing first. The others mention replacement as 'easy' and 'be done with it'. The truth is that replacing rearwheel bearings is a PITA and time consuming job with possibly a lot of frustrations. 
Quote
Right, replacing the bearings is the easy answer.
Easy... >:( yeah that quoted answer is easy. 'Easy'... don't make me laugh.
« Last Edit: May 23, 2018, 08:14:35 AM by Deltarider »
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Offline Duke McDukiedook

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2018, 07:59:58 AM »
I dunno. Bearings are not that expensive and the risk of having one seize on you because you felt like being cheap is crazy to me.
I usually buck up and get better bearings like SKF or Timken if I can when changing those out.
Better bearings mean less rolling friction and they last longer.
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Offline slikwilli420

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2018, 08:14:50 AM »
Try greasing first. The others mention replacement as 'easy' and 'be done with it'. The truth is that replacing rearwheel bearings is a PITA and time consuming job with the risk of a lot of frustrations. 
Quote
Right, replacing the bearings is the easy answer.
Easy... >:( yeah that quoted answer is easy. 'Easy'... don't make me laugh.

The hard part is getting the retainer out. Beyond that, it is a very easy and straightforward process that is well worth doing.
All you gotta do is do what you gotta do.

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Offline Deltarider

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2018, 08:20:45 AM »
Try greasing first. The others mention replacement as 'easy' and 'be done with it'. The truth is that replacing rearwheel bearings is a PITA and time consuming job with the risk of a lot of frustrations. 
Quote
Right, replacing the bearings is the easy answer.
Easy... >:( yeah that quoted answer is easy. 'Easy'... don't make me laugh.

The hard part is getting the retainer out. Beyond that, it is a very easy and straightforward process that is well worth doing.
Getting the retainer out usually ends in a damaged retainer that then has become useless (and they are expensive), that's one. Then to get the bearings out - I can assure you - is a pretty tough job and you won't succeed without heating it. Then there will be the frustration with the spacer. My advice: don't fix what ain't broken.
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Offline slikwilli420

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2018, 09:01:16 AM »
Try greasing first. The others mention replacement as 'easy' and 'be done with it'. The truth is that replacing rearwheel bearings is a PITA and time consuming job with the risk of a lot of frustrations. 
Quote
Right, replacing the bearings is the easy answer.
Easy... >:( yeah that quoted answer is easy. 'Easy'... don't make me laugh.

The hard part is getting the retainer out. Beyond that, it is a very easy and straightforward process that is well worth doing.
Getting the retainer out usually ends in a damaged retainer that then has become useless (and they are expensive), that's one. Then to get the bearings out - I can assure you - is a pretty tough job and you won't succeed without heating it. Then there will be the frustration with the spacer. My advice: don't fix what ain't broken.

Retainers are not that expensive and if you drill the stake marks enough, there are no issues. Yes, you typically need heat to get them out but I have not had any issues and have done some pretty crusty wheels before. Good maintenance practice to keep a bike running in top condition.
All you gotta do is do what you gotta do.

Vintage Speed Parts Mashup: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=133638.0
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #10 on: May 23, 2018, 09:20:18 AM »
I dunno. Bearings are not that expensive and the risk of having one seize on you because you felt like being cheap is crazy to me.

Really? Seizing?  I've had them get cruchy and even crush the balls.  But, never seize. When enough balls are crushed, the steering gets weird due to axle alignment changes.

Sorry, I just can't see seizure as a real concern.  Good scare tactic, though!

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Offline 2wheels

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #11 on: May 23, 2018, 09:30:08 AM »
I will repeat, my bearings are in great shape.  Just feel dry.  After 48 years that would be expected.

So no one has managed to get grease into these bearing, while installed in the wheel?
I was considering heating the grease, till it will flow.  Try to pore some in.  I have never had one of these wheels apart so I don't know it this would work.
1970 CB750 K0 (I can't believe I tossed my duck tail seat in the trash 30 years ago)

Online pjlogue

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #12 on: May 23, 2018, 09:34:28 AM »
I would replace the bearings with double shielded ones.  Unless you have had the bike from day one you don't know it's history.  After 40 years anything could have happened to the bearings.  Even bearings that have been well greased will wear out due to metal fatigue.  Microscopic cracks develop in the balls and races over time with stress.  $50 in new bearings is cheap insurance.

-P.

Online pjlogue

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #13 on: May 23, 2018, 09:36:51 AM »
I will repeat, my bearings are in great shape.  Just feel dry.  After 48 years that would be expected.

So no one has managed to get grease into these bearing, while installed in the wheel?
I was considering heating the grease, till it will flow.  Try to pore some in.  I have never had one of these wheels apart so I don't know it this would work.

You need to get the dirt out before putting new grease in.  If you have exposed the bearings you DO now have dirt in there. 

-P.

Offline Johnie

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #14 on: May 23, 2018, 10:21:48 AM »
How do you know they are in great shape? If they’re dry on a 50 year old bike replace them. Or chance a really bad failure on the highway. Guess you need to decide how important that bike is to you.
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Offline Duke McDukiedook

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #15 on: May 23, 2018, 10:23:38 AM »
I dunno. Bearings are not that expensive and the risk of having one seize on you because you felt like being cheap is crazy to me.

Really? Seizing?  I've had them get cruchy and even crush the balls.  But, never seize. When enough balls are crushed, the steering gets weird due to axle alignment changes.

Sorry, I just can't see seizure as a real concern.  Good scare tactic, though!

Cheers,

Hey, I am an engineer that deals in wcs in my design work and even quality bearings are relatively cheap to replace. I never meant it as a scare tactic, seizing is a possible wcs in wheel bearings. Is it likely possible to occur? No.
"Well, Mr. Carpetbagger. We got somethin' in this territory called the Missouri boat ride."   Josey Wales

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Online Bodi

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2018, 06:57:57 PM »
I would drive out the floating bearing to access the open back of the retained bearing - all originals I've seen have a dust seal on the outside face only - so it can be cleaned and regreased properly, assuming it isn't worn out. The spacer passes freely through the floating bearing bore. Then put in a new floating bearing. That avoids marring the hub by drilling out the stakes and is almost as good as replacing both with double lip sealed "2RS" bearings. Once a tight fit bearing has been driven out by tapping its inner race with a drift, it should not be re-used.

Offline Deltarider

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #17 on: May 24, 2018, 01:33:50 AM »
I dunno. Bearings are not that expensive and the risk of having one seize on you because you felt like being cheap is crazy to me.

Really? Seizing?  I've had them get cruchy and even crush the balls.  But, never seize. When enough balls are crushed, the steering gets weird due to axle alignment changes.

Sorry, I just can't see seizure as a real concern.  Good scare tactic, though!

Cheers,

Hey, I am an engineer that deals in wcs in my design work and even quality bearings are relatively cheap to replace. I never meant it as a scare tactic, seizing is a possible wcs in wheel bearings. Is it likely possible to occur? No.
I've never heard of a seizing bearing. BTW, what is 'wcs'.
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Offline PeWe

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wheel bearings
« Reply #18 on: May 24, 2018, 03:18:59 AM »
My front wheel bearings were bad which was noticed by the tire guy when balance it, felt like sand in it. Only 40.000 km, mostly touring. Not a grease thing, bearings only. Bike had been standing still for +20 years. Not good for the bearings.

Install good bearings with rubber seals on both sides,  6302-2RS  (2RS is the code)

There is a newer version with improved seals  6302-2RSH. I ordered the RSH version for front and rear last time (SKF), not used yet. 2RS has been the choice since decades.

Important to mount it correctly without banging/pressing the inner race when mount it or banging correct but too hard so the inner collar will press the inner races to destruction.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2018, 06:49:42 AM by PeWe »
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline Duke McDukiedook

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #19 on: May 24, 2018, 07:08:55 AM »
I dunno. Bearings are not that expensive and the risk of having one seize on you because you felt like being cheap is crazy to me.

Really? Seizing?  I've had them get cruchy and even crush the balls.  But, never seize. When enough balls are crushed, the steering gets weird due to axle alignment changes.

Sorry, I just can't see seizure as a real concern.  Good scare tactic, though!

Cheers,

Hey, I am an engineer that deals in wcs in my design work and even quality bearings are relatively cheap to replace. I never meant it as a scare tactic, seizing is a possible wcs in wheel bearings. Is it likely possible to occur? No.
I've never heard of a seizing bearing. BTW, what is 'wcs'.

Worst-case scenario. My neighbor across the street from me had his wife drive on a bad wheel bearing on his F-150 truck to the store and back. The seized bearing wound up eating through the spindle. It happens.
"Well, Mr. Carpetbagger. We got somethin' in this territory called the Missouri boat ride."   Josey Wales

"It's Baltimore, gentlemen. The gods will not save you." Ervin Burrell

CB750 K3 crat | (2) 1986 VFR750F

Offline 2wheels

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #20 on: May 24, 2018, 07:54:06 AM »
My front wheel bearings were bad which was noticed by the tire guy when balance it, felt like sand in it. Only 40.000 km, mostly touring. Not a grease thing, bearings only. Bike had been standing still for +20 years. Not good for the bearings.

Install good bearings with rubber seals on both sides,  6302-2RS  (2RS is the code)

There is a newer version with improved seals  6302-2RSH. I ordered the RSH version for front and rear last time (SKF), not used yet. 2RS has been the choice since decades.

Important to mount it correctly without banging/pressing the inner race when mount it or banging correct but too hard so the inner collar will press the inner races to destruction.

I just had a new tire put on my rear wheel as well.  When the mechanic balanced my tire he thought the bearings were fine. 
The more I research I see it is not possible to get new grease in the bearings.
I will keep my eye on them.  The bike has a center stand and every time I lube the chain it is easy to feel for bearing problems.
Thanks all
1970 CB750 K0 (I can't believe I tossed my duck tail seat in the trash 30 years ago)

Offline slikwilli420

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #21 on: May 24, 2018, 08:04:53 AM »
My front wheel bearings were bad which was noticed by the tire guy when balance it, felt like sand in it. Only 40.000 km, mostly touring. Not a grease thing, bearings only. Bike had been standing still for +20 years. Not good for the bearings.

Install good bearings with rubber seals on both sides,  6302-2RS  (2RS is the code)

There is a newer version with improved seals  6302-2RSH. I ordered the RSH version for front and rear last time (SKF), not used yet. 2RS has been the choice since decades.

Important to mount it correctly without banging/pressing the inner race when mount it or banging correct but too hard so the inner collar will press the inner races to destruction.

I just had a new tire put on my rear wheel as well.  When the mechanic balanced my tire he thought the bearings were fine. 
The more I research I see it is not possible to get new grease in the bearings.
I will keep my eye on them.  The bike has a center stand and every time I lube the chain it is easy to feel for bearing problems.
Thanks all

Dude, if they are the original 40 year old bearings, change them out. That is part of maintaining your bike. The grease in there doesn't last forever despite what you may think. Its an investment in safety of you and others.
All you gotta do is do what you gotta do.

Vintage Speed Parts Mashup: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=133638.0
Rickman CR Parts Kit Refresh: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,154837.0.html
AHRMA CB750 Racer: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,158461.0.html
AHRMA Superbike Heavyweight Racer: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,173120.0.html
'76F CB750 Patina Redemption: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,174871.0.html

Offline PeWe

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #22 on: May 24, 2018, 10:45:57 AM »
Easier to do now when wheel is off. Worse to remove it later when bearings start to fail and get extra job.
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline American Locomotive

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #23 on: May 24, 2018, 03:52:07 PM »
If the bearings "feel dry", then they are likely already trash. The ball bearings inside become pitted rapidly without proper lubrication. Once they're pitted, they will start wearing and the wheel will eventually become loose.

I just changed all the rear wheel bearings on my '76 750F and it took maybe an hour, and I have never done rear wheel bearings on a 750 before. The hardest part was taking the retainer out, and even then that wasn't too bad. I just used two round punches stuck in the holes and a big screwdriver as a makeshift pin wrench.

Offline Don R

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #24 on: May 24, 2018, 10:15:18 PM »
  I've pried off plastic seals, greased them and popped the seals back on. The metal seals, not so much. Some see it as a judgement call. You decide.
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