Topic: Rear wheel sprocket

[kixbox]

More heat. Hair dryer probably not enough. If you don’t have a propane torch., get a heat gun, about 35 bucks. Safe and works well. Aluminum expands more than steel.

Working on borrowing one from Martin (my neighbor).  Hope that works. 


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[kixbox]

YES - propane torch heat released that last of of three bearings. 




Thank you all.  Planning for this process was key - and very glad I did that through this forum.  As a beginner and someone with limited mechanical background, I feel very accomplished today and could not have been possible with out this community’s help - thank you.

Once the parts are in, I will continue to update this thread with how I progress in putting this rear wheel assembly back together.

Here is my bike before the wheel came of.





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[BobbyR]

Great looking bike. I see you got the bearings out without buggering things up. Remember to get those bearings into the freezer and let them get down to the freezer temp. With a heated hub and frozen bearings, things will almost fall right into place.

[kixbox]

Great looking bike. I see you got the bearings out without buggering things up. Remember to get those bearings into the freezer and let them get down to the freezer temp. With a heated hub and frozen bearings, things will almost fall right into place.

Yes, for sure - I may have a few questions when it’s time to put the wheel back together. 

I wanted to go for a full cafe conversion and then something happened after riding it for a few seasons, I fell in love with the bike the way it is.  It took me sometime to get it on the road and in a good running condition - mostly tune up and small fixes. Time has come to start working through the bike in more detail (deep cleaning, replace any wear and tear parts, remove rust, make some personalized tweaks, etc); decided to start in the back (hence the rear wheel project) - and will make my way slowly towards the front - very excited about the process. 



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[kixbox]

Hi all -

I have a few follow (hopefully small questions):

#1: I ordered a new sprocket-side bearing retainer and an oil seal (to replace the old as they are in rough shape):
   - 1.1 On re-assembly, are there any special instructions/things I need to do when a new bearing retainer (like re-tapping/re-staking the marked spots)?
   - 1.2 Should I put loctite on the retainer threads? if yes, there are so many kinds, which one?
   - 1.3 Should I apply grease to the seal when I put it into the retainer?

#2: I ordered a new o-ring (68x2.6) for the wheel hub. There seems to be are two distinct sides to it (threaded and flat).   
   - 2.1 What is the correct side out? I forgot to observe/take picture of which side is which.
   - 2.2 Should I re-stake/tap the marked spots as well?

#3: aesthetics: the rim is in very good shape (very limited pitting or rust).  The spokes are a different story - surface rust and they look bad.  So, I started the cleaning process to remove the rust (using all tips and tricks off this forum) - and it is coming along very nicely.  It will not sparkle, but it will not be rust either 
   - 3.1 ...so, I am thinking about applying a light clear metal coat on the spokes after I finish the spoke-by-spoke-time-consuming rust clean up side project- is this a good idea?
 
Thanks in advance
 

[754]

Hammer and a drift punch will get that bearing..
 Why are the 3 prong  thingies off your center spacer?

[kixbox]

Hammer and a drift punch will get that bearing..
 Why are the 3 prong  thingies off your center spacer?

Got it out with some heat!!

YES - that is a very good question.  They fell down as the wheel was laying flat - and I did not see how it (all three pieces) came out.  I just assumed that this is how it is. 

They do not seem to be attached to the center spacer.  Is this bad news? Please any thoughts here would be super helpful.



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[754]

They should be on the centre spacer with the prongs facing the ends. When you install first bearing place this inside the hub on the bearing.
 Their function is create a bit of drag, so the spacer can not fall down while sliding the axle through.
 It works well, the only problem being... you must push spacer to the side, to remove bearing.
 That may bend one back , but it's easy to fix.

[kixbox]

They should be on the centre spacer with the prongs facing the ends. When you install first bearing place this inside the hub on the bearing.
 Their function is create a bit of drag, so the spacer can not fall down while sliding the axle through.
 It works well, the only problem being... you must push spacer to the side, to remove bearing.
 That may bend one back , but it's easy to fix.

That’s good to know!

What about the tabs? I read somewhere on the forum that they need to be welded on - is that accurate?



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[BobbyR]

They should be on the centre spacer with the prongs facing the ends. When you install first bearing place this inside the hub on the bearing.
 Their function is create a bit of drag, so the spacer can not fall down while sliding the axle through.
 It works well, the only problem being... you must push spacer to the side, to remove bearing.
 That may bend one back , but it's easy to fix.

That’s good to know!

What about the tabs? I read somewhere on the forum that they need to be welded on - is that accurate?



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I am wondering what the purpose of that spacer is by creating drag. It would seem the bearings carry all of the weight. It is not really spacing anything just aligning the axle during assembly at the factory since they put them in quick. I am not saying you are wrong I just wonder what it does in operation.

[BobR]

 The 3 prong tab pieces are just there to keep the spacer centered to get the axle thru it. The spacer itself is essential- without it the hub bearings would get destroyed. Bob

[kixbox]

The 3 prong tab pieces are just there to keep the spacer centered to get the axle thru it. The spacer itself is essential- without it the hub bearings would get destroyed. Bob

So, in your opinion, should I weld the tabs to the spacer itself or just simply snug them in place (that is at the edge of the spacer)?

Thanks.

The fact that the tabs are not attached to the spacer is making me really nervous.


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[754]

The tabs were a press fits if they did not get stretched should still work,
Tap them back on with a socket or spacer.
 
 The centre spacer is crucial for bearing life, without it, when you tighten the axle the bearings inner components are forced to run hard against each other. It is not designed for it and will not run long like that.

 And a lot of folks dont realize that. So once your axle us tightened, your three wheel spacers, your greasy spacer and
Inner spacer never turn.  Everything else turns around it.

[BobR]

 What 754 said. I'll add mine got pretty tweaked when I had mine apart this winter. I straightened them out , tightened up the fit (tweaked them) and tapped them back on. Bob

[kixbox]

Thank you all, very informative exchange. 

I think I’m feeling much calmer now.  Most parts should arrive late this week or next. 

Can’t wait


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[PeWe]

Heat gun is very useful tool. Good for warming up the carb boots just before mounting the carbs. Not only for bearing jobs loosen up stuck parts.