Topic: Petcock to carbs fuel line...

[techy5025]

Trying to decide on the fuel line between the petcock and the carbs on my '70 750. I know that Honda used a 5.5 mm line. However, that seems like a really tight fit over the petcock and carb barbs. In fact, it was so tight that I managed to pull the fuel connector pipe out of the petcock trying to remove the hose. Thin wall 1/4 inch id hose like Motion Pro sells seems to still fit tight (even without a clamp). I realize that the barbs are designed to keep the hose from coming off especially after it's been on and hardened a bit. Maybe you just have to cut them off and replace them.... and they have to come off for carb adjustments.

There must be a secret to removing the two hoses off the petcock. Even after removing the petcock bowl, access is limited. I've been using clamps, but for the right size hose I'm not sure that is necessary.

Thoughts?

Jim
 

[PeWe]

I use a screwdriver and push the hose off the petcock pipes, while I gently pull the hose just a little. If pulling the hose too hard it will lock on the pipe. I have also got the pipe to come off, rather new petcock. I hammered the pipe back in place. But I replaced the petcock with a new just for sure.
Worst case, cut the hose from pipes. Hose will be 1" shorter each time. Good to have spare.

[ekpent]

 I use 5/32 on my 750's. Got a whole large spool at a hardware store closeout. No clamps needed and it is a tight fit which is good. Little lube on the connectors helps.

[70CB750]

I use yellow Tygon line from ebay, not sure about the size.  It always goes off and on easily for a while, than it gets hard and I cut it or/and replace it.

Just like PeWe, I leave the hose longer than necessary,  long enough to lift/tilt the tank up without disconnecting it.

[DaveBarbier]

I forgot who, but someone on here first puts two small washers over the barb then the fuel line. To remove he then uses a screwdriver to pry the two washers apart which pushes the fuel line. I haven’t tried it but it seems like it could work.

[techy5025]

I'm a little hesitant to use lube as I don't want it to migrate to the float shutoff valves and cause leaks and thus overflows.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Jim

[flybox1]

I use yellow Tygon line from ebay, not sure about the size.  It always goes off and on easily for a while, than it gets hard and I cut it or/and replace it.

+1 for TYGON.  It really is good stuff... but if it  REALLY IS TYGON (Tygon F-4040-A), it shouldnt get hard. 
There are many colored yellow, that aren't TYGON. 
Ive ordered TYGON online many times, and got some of the good stuff and some of the bad stuff (false advertising)
TYGON will clearly be printed on it and Saint-Gobain is the mfr.

[BobbyR]

I usually buy Tygon from a smalll engine shop you may pay a wee bit more but you get the branded stuff. Spit is a great and quickly available lube. 

[Johnie]

I have always put a SMALL thin coating of dieletric grease up the outside petcock nipple so when I slide the line on it does not get into any fuel stream. It really makes it easier if I need to remove it in the future.

[MauiK3]

I have found that new 5.5mm line is pretty supple and slides right on. I use the stock style wire clams, they won't distort the line. I hate getting them off, I have not found a tool yet that really works, they are so small and hard to reach. I'm looking on eBay now.
I like the washer idea, never thought of that.