Topic: Man Cup race this weekend @ Dragway 42, Ohio

[dragracer]

Dang, so this friend let a bad battery ruin his race weekend? Hate to hear you couldn't help him Pops.

Wilbur, I understand where you're coming from to a point. Those batteries cost a lot more than a cheap Walmart lead acid. Personally, I like the lithium batteries I use in our bikes. They hold a charge much longer than the lead acid batteries. Most of my bikes are total loss systems so if I don't have time to charge the battery between rounds, I at least have piece of mind that i'll be okay to make the pass. Eventually, lithium batteries will need charging during the race. I think many believe they will not go dead and just keep racing without proper maintenance. Also, if you ever let the voltage drop below the safe level in some brands, you will ruin the battery. A select few have low voltage features so the battery shuts down to save itself. All you need to do then is hit it with a  charger to wake it up, and it will take a full charge.

My main reason for using lithium is the reduced size and weight of the batteries, more amperage for the size than lead acid and the ability to mount the battery in different directions. They also last longer- I used to replace the lead acid batteries once a year as a precaution- I put them in the lawnmower or street bike with charging system. Space gets tight in a purpose built drag bike. Smaller, more powerful batteries are a plus.

[scottly]

I don't understand the affinity for the lithium batteries. Shave a pound or two but end up with a bike that won't stay running long enough to make it to the last (or even the next) round?

Whut chu talkin bout, Willis?? More like 7 or 8 pounds, and with an intact charging system, they will keep the bike running until it's out of fuel. The large case battery on the left is a drop-in replacement for your LA battery, (with a bit of padding included in the box), and if you're not afraid of some fabrication, the small case version on the right with a custom battery tray will save another 2 pounds.

[754]

I have never understood racers that don't black a few spare parts.
 You pay  50 but or more to race, and you get sidelined for sometimes simple pieces  it a piece that is far less than 50.00
 Worse yet when you know they have the spares, and can't bother  to take them along.

[POPS 911]

Mike the GS1150 racer has a bracket bike Pro ET. and does not know if it will run 9.40 or 9.70s pass to next pass. If this battery gets low it turn off the MSD box and the motor dies..... he works for JEGS and can tell you every special thing about his battery = it takes two hours after a pass for the battery tender to quit flashing, they will not wait in the lanes for you to come back when THEY are in the ROUND ROBIN end of the day racing = you-all come back means fuel up and get back in place or you lose. that racer had to much static pressure on his lock up and killed the engine when he let off the button [ I asked did you mess with the set up = NO BUT AFTER HE TOOK 3 SHIMS OFF the 60 foots improved and he ran 9.40 ]...... man cannot leave the set up alone = FASTER-FASTER-FASTER . I helped him one day at our home track and the same bike with my set up ran 9.19 HE TUNED IT UP AND RAN 9.70S

[dragracer]

A proper clutch set up is the only way a lockup will work. It all begins with static pressure as you know. Maybe he will listen to you next time Pops. By the way. it shouldn't take longer than 10 minutes to get a lithium battery back up to full charge with the correct charger. 

Mike the GS1150 racer has a bracket bike Pro ET. and does not know if it will run 9.40 or 9.70s pass to next pass. If this battery gets low it turn off the MSD box and the motor dies..... he works for JEGS and can tell you every special thing about his battery = it takes two hours after a pass for the battery tender to quit flashing, they will not wait in the lanes for you to come back when THEY are in the ROUND ROBIN end of the day racing = you-all come back means fuel up and get back in place or you lose. that racer had to much static pressure on his lock up and killed the engine when he let off the button [ I asked did you mess with the set up = NO BUT AFTER HE TOOK 3 SHIMS OFF the 60 foots improved and he ran 9.40 ]...... man cannot leave the set up alone = FASTER-FASTER-FASTER . I helped him one day at our home track and the same bike with my set up ran 9.19 HE TUNED IT UP AND RAN 9.70S

[POPS 911]

Frank: His special BATTERY is some kind he found on line = lighter, smaller and one pass and your done for a hour or more charge time w/battery tender. KISS is the thinking I like to go with and when you race a bike with bars, box, auto shift, two step, FBG carbs and all motor ....... and you should remember to put it back in 1st. gear after the burn out.
But what do I know as my 1981- 400cc Hondamatic has none of these tools to help me get a better light so I have to live with a .06 or better to have them run me down [ lessons I learned years ago watching Chad Isley take the best down on his  SOHCs 750cc Hondamatic at IDBA.]

POPS BK911

[dragracer]

No doubt simple is better Pops. The more electronics you run, the higher the draw on the battery. I always go for overkill on my batteries. The current lithium batteries on the market allow you to pack big power in a small package, but there are some batteries that are not up to the task. Sounds like your buddy needs either an Anti-Gravity battery or a Ballistic. I just bought a Scorpion brand battery for my project F. It has the best price and more CCA than the comparably priced brands I mentioned above. Its a tad bit wider but only a few ounces heavier than the 16 cell Anti-Gravity I run in my onboard start, high compression 1327 KZ engine.

Frank: His special BATTERY is some kind he found on line = lighter, smaller and one pass and your done for a hour or more charge time w/battery tender. KISS is the thinking I like to go with and when you race a bike with bars, box, auto shift, two step, FBG carbs and all motor ....... and you should remember to put it back in 1st. gear after the burn out.
But what do I know as my 1981- 400cc Hondamatic has none of these tools to help me get a better light so I have to live with a .06 or better to have them run me down [ lessons I learned years ago watching Chad Isley take the best down on his  SOHCs 750cc Hondamatic at IDBA.]

POPS BK911