Let me apologize in advance. I've created build threads in the past (CX500, HawkGT forums) and they always became more of "this is what I did" over "this is what I'm doing". I'm going to try to correct that this time around, although there is just soooo much information available in this forum, many of my questions can be (and have been) answered with a simple search.
I introduced myself a while back:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,172645.0.html So this is where I'm at: Two 1977 CB550's. Got them as a pair, one is really nice condition (I'll call her the "stocker") and one that is definitely a project. My vision for the project is that of a bit of a Brute. I've never named my builds in the past, but this time, well, maybe.
So I may bounce around a bit in this thread as I work on both bikes (and my never ending Hawk build). My plan is to sort through a few oil leaks in the stocker and sell her to fund the Brute. She's in very good condition with 15K miles. What appear to be original OEM exhaust with no severe rust. The bike starts with a simple push of the starter button. Like most, she's a bit noisy until she warms up, but idles like a champ. She's a resto project looking for a good home.
So far I have replaced the shifter seal, oil pan gasket and cam cover O-rings. I was shocked at all the oil that had collected under the cover and surprised to see what appeared to be a new (or recently cleaned) oil pump. She's all clean and buttoned up now. Awaiting the arrival of an oil filter and to complete those tasks.
Now for my first question: After draining all the oil and removing the oil pan, will I need to perform some sort of oil pump prime? Just want to make sure that she doesn't go thru some sort of vacuum lock instead of pushing oil. Simply place the run switch to the off position until the oil pressure light goes out? Inquiring minds need to know.
Next up is replacing the fork seals and fork oil. After I finish those tasks, it'll be time for cam chain and valve adjustment. Then a good bath, some wax and a For Sale sign.
Now about the Brute:
When I purchased the bikes (sight unseen, on line) the owner included video clips of both bikes. Of course the stocker started with no problem, but the Brute didn't have a battery and the air box was off (open carbs). He placed it on a charger, gave her a kick and she burped to life. So she wasn't locked up and did run. The steering bearings are a total loss, if you want her to go straight, no problem. Turning it from the central notch was another matter. No biggie, I have plans for the front end.
I spent an evening stripping her down to the bare essentials. Trying to remove the side engine cover bolts proved to be a lesson in futility. I tried soaking in PB Blaster, heat from a torch, impact driver, you name it. Ultimately I drilled out about a dozen bolt heads. My plan includes replacing with stainless hardware, so no great loss. Wish I could afford the nice ARP 12-pt bolts some run, but it's just not in the (financial) cards. Once the majority of the engine cover bolts had been removed, my buddy and I extricated the engine using the right side on the floor exit strategy.
The engine isn't a big leaker (certainly not like the 'stocker'), but obviously there is some O-ring and gasket seepage so time for a top end refresh. Interesting to note that as I was tearing her down, I found a paper towel in the intake runner between the carb and head on cylinder 2. I'm curious to know if one of the PO's gave up on the build because he had carb tuning issues that may have resulted from the blocked intake? Thankfully there was no evidence of the paper towel being ingested into the intake port.
I have the engine's top end currently torn down and working my way through the struggles of gasket removal. I've tried various approaches from 3M adhesive remover, to Acrysol to soaking in Cimguard. All resulted in limited success. An online friend from the CX forum suggested the following: "Most gaskets are impermeable to oils. If you soak them with some water, it makes it easier to scrape off. You could even try brushing on straight Simple Green". Makes sense. What do I have to lose? Thoughts?
I hope to wire the finished project with an M-unit. BUT, I have always been partial to the OEM switch controls. We did this on a CX500 and it came out really well. Once removed from the bike, the controls were disassembled, bead blasted and the castings were sent (along with a few engine components) to be Teflon coated. Teflon is incredibly tough and will even stand up to brake fluid. The parts came back from coating yesterday and we'll start the label painting process, soon.
I think that's enough to get everyone up to date on the Brute. Thanks in advance for watching.
