Author Topic: CB550 Woes (Read 2472 times)

550Resto · « **on:** June 28, 2018, 03:21:20 PM »

Hey all, so I just went out to the bike and started her up. She ran for about 30 seconds and then died and when I went to restart all the dash lights went out and nothing worked. I shut it off and when going to turn the ignition back to on the dash lights would flash quickly and then go out. Anyone have any thoughts? The bike was running fine previously and I don't have a meter to check the battery. All lights are converted to LED as well as the headlight and I have installed the modern fuse block in to the bike. I'm a little stumped at the moment.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #1 on:** June 28, 2018, 03:43:54 PM »

Get a meter and check the battery.

calj737 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 28, 2018, 08:10:06 PM »

Sounds like a loose connection with the ignition switch, or the MAIN power (RED) circuit from the new fuse block.

TwoTired · « **Reply #3 on:** June 28, 2018, 08:51:19 PM »

Yes check the plug on the back of the keyswitch or suspect the switch itself.

But, first check that the battery terminals are secure on the battery posts with a clean connection.

Cheers,

ComingInHot · « **Reply #4 on:** June 28, 2018, 08:58:44 PM »

I would also check the charging system.

Jonzilla · « **Reply #5 on:** June 29, 2018, 07:57:38 AM »

I once had the electrical connector from the ignition switch come loose while riding cause the same issues you described. Pull the tank and check it.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2018, 08:09:24 AM »

What year and model 550 (you should add this info to your signature).

If it is an F model or 77-78 K then read my thread on this issue that has links to another useful one: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,92602.0.html

550Resto · « **Reply #7 on:** June 29, 2018, 11:55:59 AM »

I checked the battery and was getting 12.7 Volts. Turn the key to the on position and it dropped to 0 V. Still getting the slight flickering dash and turn signals when going to the on position. When going to running lights the only light that comes on is the rear brake light. Would the kill switch have anything to do with it? Also swapped out fuses, but still same issue. I tugged on the connector at the back of the switch and it seemed fine.

550Resto · « **Reply #8 on:** June 29, 2018, 01:16:50 PM »

So I pulled the ignition switch and when tapping on it a little with ignition on the LEDs on the days came on, oil and neutral light lit up but still no starter etc. I popped the plug off and metered from black to red on the plug and was getting 12V so I can only guess that there is an issue with the switch.

calj737 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 29, 2018, 01:37:07 PM »

Quote from: 550Resto on June 29, 2018, 11:55:59 AM

I checked the battery and was getting 12.7 Volts. Turn the key to the on position and it dropped to 0 V.

Was this measurement at the battery for both voltages?

calj737 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 29, 2018, 01:39:28 PM »

Quote from: 550Resto on June 29, 2018, 01:16:50 PM

I popped the plug off and metered from black to red on the plug and was getting 12V so I can only guess that there is an issue with the switch.

Where was this measurement taken?

550Resto · « **Reply #11 on:** June 29, 2018, 02:09:02 PM »

Measurement was the same at the battery and the plug. Taken from red to black on the ignition plug. I popped the connector or keyway off the ignition and found that two of the three prongs have solder, should all 3 have solder? Picture attached.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #12 on:** June 29, 2018, 02:19:43 PM »

None of them had solder originally, so it looks like someone has already done the repair that fixes the issue with the prongs coming loose.

550Resto · « **Reply #13 on:** June 29, 2018, 02:28:39 PM »

Hmmmm, well it was a one owner bike so I imagine the last guy did it. Is it worth it to just get a new ignition or try to rework this one?

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #14 on:** June 29, 2018, 02:55:27 PM »

The 750F (and 550F) uses the same ignition as 77-78 750K. On my 750F I had to replace the ignition not because there was an issue with the prongs, but because there was excess wear on the contacts on the inside of that part of the switch.

If you separate the plastic housing (carefully, you don't want to break anything and have no choice but to replace it), inside are 2 clips, 2 small ball bearings, and 2 very small springs that fit inside a round plastic disk. The disk has contacts in it that extend through the disk and attach to the prongs.

On my 750 the small contact points on the inside of the disk had worn and the clips that connect the contacts and distribute the power didn't make a good connection.

You can inspect the switch or decide it isn't worth the effort and buy another. 4into1.com sells a switch/seat lock combo for about $40 that uses a revised switch with the prongs in a connector housing connected to the switch by a pigtail, so it makes it easier to plug in and also insulates the connection from the vibrations that cause the original switches to stop working.

550Resto · « **Reply #15 on:** June 29, 2018, 03:08:21 PM »

That might be the way to go.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #16 on:** July 01, 2018, 10:14:17 AM »

Be careful of the repo switch. I got that same ignition/seat set and the connector for the ignition came loose a few times prompting me to secure it with a zip tie. Cheap enough, but..

Depending on which version of the switch you have, it could be the plastic cover no longer holds things in place. You can check my threads on how I tackled my ignition and you're welcome to print the plastic cover if you'd like. See response #42 of my rebuild thread in the signature.

550Resto · « **Reply #17 on:** July 01, 2018, 04:58:18 PM »

Thanks will do. Also to rule the switch as the culprit, can I jump the bike using a wire from the Red to Blk wire on the plug and verify that the bike starts with the starter? I was looking at the wiring diagram and see the Ign and Batt are obviously Red and Black.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #18 on:** July 01, 2018, 08:33:43 PM »

I guess you could jump the wires, but you can also just test the switch itself. Set the multimeter for continuity and grab the correct terminals. This was the test on this switch for the rear light if I recall.

Honda Switch

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #19 on:** July 02, 2018, 10:15:50 AM »

Yes, you can jump the switch. That's how I got my bike home when the switch failed. After that I carried a jumper wire in my tank bag just in case.

550Resto · « **Reply #20 on:** July 07, 2018, 12:34:37 PM »

So it seems the switch is not the culprit. I bought a new switch from Randakks and plugged her in and I'm still getting the same issues. The neutral and oil light flashes for a second when going to the on position with the key. Voltage is at 12.7 V when checking the battery. I'm not sure what the minimum voltage is for the lights as they are leds. The starter doesn't even kick over and the headlight does not come on. Not sure where else to look. Could a ground be the problem? Fuses looked good and they're the newer car style fuse block. I'll double check them but given that I do get some light indication when turning the ignition key to on I don't think this would be an area of concern. Any help or ideas appreciated.

calj737 · « **Reply #21 on:** July 07, 2018, 01:20:35 PM »

Loose ground or switched power wire. I’m betting on a bad BLACK wire connection since the idiot lights and START button are all involved with BLACK.

For the record, a multimeter never lies, but “looks” can be deceiving. Use a meter and probe the connections for continuity and voltage and resistance. Easiest best way to accurately diagnose the problem.

550Resto · « **Reply #22 on:** July 07, 2018, 07:28:56 PM »

Thanks, where would be a good starting point for checking voltage etc?

calj737 · « **Reply #23 on:** July 08, 2018, 04:19:38 AM »

Follow the BLACK from the key switch to the RH pod. Check voltage at the KILL. Look under the idiot cluster for the common BLACK that runs to the NEU/OIL lights.

CoachDoc · « **Reply #24 on:** July 09, 2018, 02:53:11 AM »

I’ve had similar problems in years past where on 2 separate occasions the battery was the problem. A battery can show good voltage and rest and then fail under load if it has an internal short. Before you go crazy troubleshooting I’d pull the battery and get it load tested. Alternatively run jumper cables from your car battery with the car not running and see if your bike has power and cranks then. If so, a new battery and you’re copacetic

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Author Topic: CB550 Woes (Read 2472 times)