Author Topic: CB750 tach gear (Read 2052 times)

Johnny340 · « **on:** July 04, 2018, 05:43:50 PM »

Shouldn't I see the end of the tach gear shaft with the seal removed? I am installing a new tach and cable and can't see or feel anything for the cable to connect to inside the valve cover!

scottly · « **Reply #1 on:** July 04, 2018, 06:25:45 PM »

Johnny340 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 04, 2018, 08:27:22 PM »

Oh that sucks! I've got the engine in the frame (and everything else mostly done) and this frame doesn't have the removable top section.. The valve cover was already on this rebuilt engine when I got it so I wrongly assumed everything was done

This is my last basket case I ever take on!

Could I get enough clearance to pull the valve cover just by removing the engine mount bolts or does the whole engine have to come out again?

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scottly · « **Reply #3 on:** July 04, 2018, 08:44:04 PM »

Quote from: Johnny340 on July 04, 2018, 08:27:22 PM

Could I get enough clearance to pull the valve cover just by removing the engine mount bolts or does the whole engine have to come out again?

No, you can't get enough clearance to pull the valve cover unless you install a frame kit.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,170985.0.html

Johnny340 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 04, 2018, 08:46:38 PM »

Quote from: scottly on July 04, 2018, 08:44:04 PM

Quote from: Johnny340 on July 04, 2018, 08:27:22 PM

Could I get enough clearance to pull the valve cover just by removing the engine mount bolts or does the whole engine have to come out again?

No, you can't get enough clearance to pull the valve cover unless you install a frame kit.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,170985.0.html

Ok thx. I was thinking I could maybe just get enough access to fit in a tach gear. What a pisser!

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754 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 04, 2018, 08:52:37 PM »

Just for kicks, check electric tachs.

Johnny340 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 04, 2018, 08:58:35 PM »

Quote from: 754 on July 04, 2018, 08:52:37 PM

Just for kicks, check electric tachs.

I wondered about that but I have a nice new mechanical gauge..
Is Scotly making your frame kits now? Or do you have one? I might just go that route. My only concern is maybe seeing the front clamp in front of the tank??

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PeWe · « **Reply #7 on:** July 04, 2018, 09:53:01 PM »

Frame kit is a really good modification if your bike will be used. I did not like the idea to cut the frame, but changed my mind when I had to do the head and cyl studs. I have after that had really good use of the frame kit several times a year. I used 3 different cams this year in May. Quick job with frame kit. Time cam with engine in frame work fine too.
Easier to pull engine if taking it apart in frame first. One man job.

754 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 04, 2018, 10:28:50 PM »

Removing valve cover with the kit, should be about 15 minutes with tank offm probly more like 10 if you have done it before. I don't think I have Allen bolts on the two long ones under the middle cover, but I often use visegrips if I cant get them off. At proper torque, if they havent been on for years, they should come off easy.
Yes Scotty is making them.

PeWe · « **Reply #9 on:** July 05, 2018, 03:35:32 AM »

I use allen bolts for all bolts holding the valve cover, the long ones included. I have reduced the torque when tighten them. Earlier always 10Nm reduced to 8Nm. Last time 5 Nm since I have stripped too many threads in the head. No leaks tighten by 5Nm. New gasket, might need a re-torque after an hour or 2
The 2 inner threads for the long ones would not be fun to fix with big risk to get shaves down the cam chain tunnel

Johnny340 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 05, 2018, 05:05:16 AM »

Ok thanks guys. I'll get the kit since I'm so far along. My brother was coming down from Kelowna next week is why I was asking, Frank. I have contacted Scotty and am waiting to hear if he has one left. Where is he located...Kelowna too?

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754 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 05, 2018, 06:18:58 AM »

Actually Johnny he is in Arizona.
I did not realize you were up here. If that is the case I may be able to get your wheel spacers. ( ITS JUST pricey usually sending the little stuff down to the US if it's a parcel)

Johnny340 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 05, 2018, 08:11:19 AM »

Quote from: 754 on July 05, 2018, 06:18:58 AM

Actually Johnny he is in Arizona.
I did not realize you were up here. If that is the case I may be able to get your wheel spacers. ( ITS JUST pricey usually sending the little stuff down to the US if it's a parcel)

Oh that would be fantastic! My brother could pick them up at your place?? Let me know how much you want for them and what kind of beer you like

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754 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 05, 2018, 08:17:31 AM »

I can't dig them out till next week, sprocket side and brake side, you better have the inner.
Is your brother up here or passing thru?

Johnny340 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 05, 2018, 08:49:41 AM »

Quote from: 754 on July 05, 2018, 08:17:31 AM

I can't dig them out till next week, sprocket side and brake side, you better have the inner.
Is your brother up here or passing thru?

Yes I have the inner but need both of those ones. He lives in Lake Country but comes down often. Where are you located?

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754 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 05, 2018, 09:49:11 AM »

Glenmore and my storage is by Reid's Corner.

PeWe · « **Reply #16 on:** July 05, 2018, 12:13:15 PM »

Before cut, make sure you get big enough opening for good access.
I'm really pleased with my installation.
It was space enough to mount the fat billet block, front cut was exact for it. A few mm longer front pipes and it should have been too tight. I think minimum amount of cyl studs helped. Only the 4 inner mounted. The other mounted when cyl block was in place.
.Stock cyl, no problem at all with studs in
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,62832.msg1515860.html#msg1515860

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=62832.0;attach=251946;image

Later with other carbs
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,62832.msg1660532.html#msg1660532
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=62832.0;attach=286506;image

Bike has good handling, best ever!

Johnny340 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 05, 2018, 02:02:33 PM »

Quote from: 754 on July 05, 2018, 09:49:11 AM

Glenmore and my storage is by Reid's Corner.

Can you pm me your mailing address and I'll send you a cheque

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754 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 05, 2018, 02:19:25 PM »

No, first I find them , and lets get your wheel sorted out.
The hearing on the brake side should be pretty much flush in the hub. If it's not then everything moves over, and you would need an over length spacer on sprocket side, and shorter on brake side.
Sometimes you have to pull the swingarm out a tad as you slide wheel and spacers in.
I usually help hold wheel up with my boot .

Johnny340 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 06, 2018, 08:01:52 AM »

Quote from: PeWe on July 05, 2018, 12:13:15 PM

Before cut, make sure you get big enough opening for good access.
I'm really pleased with my installation.
It was space enough to mount the fat billet block, front cut was exact for it. A few mm longer front pipes and it should have been too tight. I think minimum amount of cyl studs helped. Only the 4 inner mounted. The other mounted when cyl block was in place.
.Stock cyl, no problem at all with studs in
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,62832.msg1515860.html#msg1515860

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=62832.0;attach=251946;image

Later with other carbs
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,62832.msg1660532.html#msg1660532
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=62832.0;attach=286506;image

Bike has good handling, best ever!

Thanks for the pics and links! That will really help once the kit arrives. For one, now I'll remember the ignition switch bracket clearance! $:-\$

PeWe · « **Reply #20 on:** July 06, 2018, 12:08:11 PM »

You can see other guys cuts too in the old threads and all thoughts ventilated.

754 · « **Reply #21 on:** July 06, 2018, 01:19:30 PM »

The front length is important, the back can be way back.
The cool part is you slack the clamps, remove the straps.
Now slide the clamp parts toward the brace, and pull the removeable piece out with collars and screws intact.
No washers to lose, no bolts all over the place. ..except the straps...put the bolts back in the holes.
No washers or nuts to lose while assembling...

Johnny340 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 06, 2018, 01:26:45 PM »

Quote from: 754 on July 06, 2018, 01:19:30 PM

The front length is important, the back can be way back.
The cool part is you slack the clamps, remove the straps.
Now slide the clamp parts toward the brace, and pull the removeable piece out with collars and screws intact.
No washers to lose, no bolts all over the place. ..except the straps...put the bolts back in the holes.
No washers or nuts to lose while assembling...

I was surprised to see the front length being so far back in those pics. My last SOHC4 didn't have the ignition switch on the frame there. So I can cut rear of the ignition switch bracket with still enough length to get your clamp onto...and there is still enough room to remove the cylinder if need be? Do you have a maximum measurement that this front left tube can be?

754 · « **Reply #23 on:** July 06, 2018, 01:36:54 PM »

The measurements are on the cut line picture., and will fit early switch. Don't put them further forward, keep them hidden.

Johnny340 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 16, 2018, 09:22:23 PM »

I got the kit and made the cuts. Best bit of engineering I've seen in a while! I can't believe how light it is! On another project I welded in a frame kit and it was a boat anchor compared to this aluminum one!
All done in an hour too

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Author Topic: CB750 tach gear (Read 2052 times)