Topic: Saving Light and Key Switches – Hondaman’s Solution

[The Lone Builder]

My questions are directed at Hondaman, who hopefully will have time to respond, but I’m happy to hear any other thoughts.

I am taking the approach in Hondaman’s book to save my key switch. The black wire is spliced in the harness and two wires run to the headlight bucket – one to the kill switch and one to the headlights. So I clip these as per instructions, and then, presumably, I run two wires back to the relay near the battery box? One relay is OK?

I am also doing the light switch saving thing. However I think I have a mixture of switch gear. My RHS is early with “start/kill/headlight Off-L-H” buttons. On the other side I think I have a K5  or F switch; it has “Turn/Hi-Lo/Horn-pass light” buttons. Blue and white wires come out of both switches; the blue and white wires from the headlight have twin connectors. One of the Hi-Lo switches must be redundant? What I think may be the current setup is in the first pic.

I am planning to install LED riding lights so I thought the RHS switch could become an on-off for the headlight and riding lights. Off is off; L is riding lights on; and H is headlight on. Hi/Lo is then controlled by the LHS. My proposed rewired setup is in the 2nd pic. Any thought on whether this would work?

Getting to the relays now, I’m assuming that since the passing light/horn is only used for short periods, I don’t need to worry about it.
Do I need 4 relays; 2 for RHS and 2 for left?
Since the riding lights will be low wattage, can I get away with 3?
Is there a neater way to do the same thing?

Thanks for your thoughts.

[dave500]

ive never liked running lights theres no need for them,also dumbarse car drivers may mistake them for turn indicators?

[70CB750]

ive never liked running lights theres no need for them,also dumbarse car drivers may mistake them for turn indicators?

I took them off on Red when adapting F2 harness.  Running lights, clutch safety and neutral safety.

[Don R]

If the running lights are low wattage I'd just run them through the switch, one relay for the high and one for the low.  We didn't get the passing light/horn switch in the US. I did however use a non-us style park/low/high right control on my cb400F with an amber led park lamp in the headlight.

[RAFster122s]

Test your horn running on a relay or direct from battery in its current location.  If you detect it being louder, then this may influence your decision.  Aftermarket horns that are high draw like the Stebel Nautilus have to use a relay...and higher current fuse to protect that new power run to the horn from the battery.  The stock wiring merely serving as your switching side for the relay of course.

Hondaman's relays are extremely compact Panasonic units if I recall correctly and are very miserly with space requirements, this allows you to put several of them inside the headlight bucket.
Use a good quality relay ...Omron and Panasonic and Hella are a few that come to mind. 

Several foreign car makers use automotive micro relays that are not as a weather tight design like the Panasonic's but with proper location could work perfectly fine inside the headlight bucket or similar.

[PeWe]

Bosch and Tyco are other brands. I have not found real Bosch. My bike got Tyco (not made in China) replacing the old China relays I used first which I was sure should fail when riding on a dark road.
The auto relay is sometimes called Bosch for the type. Maybe they started to make them many years ago. The old made are bigger in size.
Relay holders will keep wires apart without risk for short circuit on the relay and easy to swap relay if defective.
https://www.biltema.se/bil---mc/elsystem/relan/relasockel-2000017798
I use relay holders with wires that I have crimped connectors connecting:
1. Battery 12V via hanging fuse close to battery
2. Battery -
3. Hi or Lo or ign coils feed or horn
4. Ground, probably Honda harness green. I have ideas to route a new and much thicker common ground wire from battery - to head light bucket.

I have later found smaller relays, half size of the Bosch/Tyco Auto relay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-Micro-Relay-12V-25-Amp-4-Pin-Normally-Open-EU-Manufactured-/141337991785?hash=item20e8669a69
Or their homepage:  https://www.3waycomponents.co.uk/Automotive-Relays/Micro-Relays/12V-25-Amp-4-Pin-Normally-Open-Contact-Micro-Relay-Form-A-M.10.204.101.A1
They sell holders for them without wires. This increase the total size but protect the connectors ensure no short circuit.
https://www.3waycomponents.co.uk/Relay-Holders-and-Bases/Micro-Relay-Holders/Micro-Relay-Base-Holder-Kit

I have ideas to make my own holders to keep min size.
Connect wires with correct terminals, these small has smaller for relay coil 4.8mm, 6.35mm for the load. the 4 wires about 20cm long to make connections with harness easier.
Before connecting the terminals with crimped wires on relay, press a thin plastic foil on the connector side protecting the relay bottom, all pins sticks out thru the foil.
Make a mold by paper or plastic pieces around the relay that has a rear stick-out cover the terminals and wires a few mm.
Keep relay down mold up, fill with 2K epoxy. When hardened the relay should be able to take out from the home made holder. Important that the connectors sit parallel and not cause a lock-up make it tricky to swap relay.
Maybe not important relay can be switched with wires, make a new mold with wires for replacement relays.

[BradyN]

I have ideas to make my own holders to keep min size.
Connect wires with correct terminals, these small has smaller for relay coil 4.8mm, 6.35mm for the load. the 4 wires about 20cm long to make connections with harness easier.
Before connecting the terminals with crimped wires on relay, press a thin plastic foil on the connector side protecting the relay bottom, all pins sticks out thru the foil.
Make a mold by paper or plastic pieces around the relay that has a rear stick-out cover the terminals and wires a few mm.
Keep relay down mold up, fill with 2K epoxy. When hardened the relay should be able to take out from the home made holder. Important that the connectors sit parallel and not cause a lock-up make it tricky to swap relay.
Maybe not important relay can be switched with wires, make a new mold with wires for replacement relays.

Do you have any pictures of the epoxied connector? Sounds interesting. I'm also adding some relays to my bike.

[PeWe]

I have not done that yet. I have done similar epoxy jobs for many years ago.