Topic: Clear tube float check

[MauiK3]

I know this isn't new but I wanted to update on the status of my K3. After getting it back on the road it ran well but I was not happy with the idle in spite of vacuum gage settings and ignition settings seeming to be right on.
I bit the bullet and did the clear tube check of the floats and they were not correct, some were a bit low. This seems to have had a pretty big effect on idle. Since I set the floats with the clear tube setup, the cold start is easier and the idle is more stable than it has ever been. I guess my clumsy hands just could not get them set right the old fashion way. 

[flybox1]

Bravo! 

[WhyNot2]

kewl............you did it off or on the bike?

[PeWe]

Measure float level by clear tube is the real way doing it right. Float height "should" work if the valves and floats themselves works fine and correct.
The measured level is the total of all factors combined  and the only thing that matters.

This reminds me about my old K6 carbs I cleaned and set for my K2 stock project. I set floats to 26mm, 25mm is probably better. They were like that before I cleaned them after +25 years with gummed up old fuel and adjusted them with almost stock setting. They got new aftermarket float valves (Cruzinimage) that might have stiffer springs than stock and therefore need higher float setting (lower value)

[MauiK3]

I did my clear tube check on the bike, air cleaner removed, pretty easy actually.

[MauiK3]

Photo of clear tube check

[WhyNot2]

Guess I just need to modify one of my bowl screws

[MauiK3]

I used an old drain screw. I drilled it from inside to outside and soldered the little copper tube into it.

[WhyNot2]

I used an old drain screw. I drilled it from inside to outside and soldered the little copper tube into it.

Alrighty man, thanks for the tip.

[MauiK3]

The piece of hardwood in the photo above is what I used to hold the jet to drill it. It fit snugly in the hole so the drill would be nice and centered and would go straight through on my drill press.

[flybox1]

I used an old drain screw. I drilled it from inside to outside and soldered the little copper tube into it.

Alrighty man, thanks for the tip.

you got a carb vacuum sync screw?  those work.
No drilling needed with a PVC fuel line connector either. 

[MauiK3]

Great idea, I never thought of trying one.

[WhyNot2]

I used an old drain screw. I drilled it from inside to outside and soldered the little copper tube into it.

Alrighty man, thanks for the tip.

you got a carb vacuum sync screw?  those work.
No drilling needed with a PVC fuel line connector either.

Carb Vacuum sync screw???

[flybox1]

I used an old drain screw. I drilled it from inside to outside and soldered the little copper tube into it.

Alrighty man, thanks for the tip.

you got a carb vacuum sync screw?  those work.
No drilling needed with a PVC fuel line connector either.

Carb Vacuum sync screw???

Yeah....this thing

[MauiK3]

I never checked to see if they were the same thread, the short one should work fine.

[PeWe]

I made similar pipes by free copper pipes I threaded in one end.
But bench sync worked really fine too. Most uneven engine run I have seen was caused by ignition, both 1:4 and 2:3 must be correct and both points same dwell checked at higher idle 1200-1400 when warm. This must be correct before synching carbs. I know sine I had to redo the synch after ignition was adjusted.