testy

Author Topic: mUnitBlu wiring and questions  (Read 257 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline bagatyr

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 17
mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« on: July 16, 2018, 09:24:04 pm »
Hey,

I'm at a point in my build where my exhaust and carbs are sorted, motor is ticking along nicely, and bike sounds healthy. This bike has no original wiring, except from the alternator and the starter motor. I plan on using a front LED headlight, and a LED brakelight/turnsignals. I'd like to make this bike start with the RFID chip. There are no keys for this bike anyway. It was pretty much stripped down to the frame when I bought it, hence the complete redo of the wiring/etc. I've seen people recommend against the M-Button, why is that? Is it just superflous? I don't mind running some wires back to the mUnit, but it would be cool to just have one running back from the headlight or something like that.

Also, what is the minimum number of buttons I need with the mUnit, I can program buttons for multiple functions, but seems like 3 or 4? is the minimum.

I believe this is all I need to purchase for my build, are there any other connectors for the alternator or anything, how do I wire that up?
-mUnit
-Revival Cycles Wiring Kit for the mUnit
-M-Lock and Key
?mButton?

I appreciate any help or advice, thanks!

Attached photo is the bike when I picked it up. Sat in a food cellar for some years without running.


Offline calj737

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 19,122
  • I refuse...
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2018, 02:11:15 am »
5 buttons: Turn L/R, HORN, HI-LO for headlight, and START. If you use a Motor gauge, you need 1 more to toggle through the display menus.

The M-Lock obviates a key unless you use the new M-Unit Blue and an Android to run the key function.

The issues with the M-Button is that it must be installed within steel bars in order to isolate any interference to your ignition. Running the small gauge wires directly from the switch buttons to the M-Unit is super easy and allows you to swap the function of those buttons at any time for ergonomic reason without a re-wire.

You are better off in my opinion to use stock wire colors versus the Revival kit. You can also use 22AWG from all your switches, and 18AWG to the components due to limited voltage in your setup. This is smaller than the Revival kit, and cheaper too. Just use quality connectors and terminals.
'74 550 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126401.0
'73 500 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132935.0

*** Currently experiencing life at 60 WTFs per hour ***
I always thought getting old would take longer

Offline bagatyr

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 17
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2018, 05:50:22 pm »
Thanks for the info cal!
I don't have a motor gauge, so no need to cycle through menus.
Seems like mLock isnt needed with the mUnitBlue, will use my phone as a lock.

Is it possible to program L/R Turn into one button. One click for L, two for R? Should I just buy the motogadget 2, and 3 button setups for this?

No MButton then, if it doesn't make things significantly easier then I don't need to spend more $ or time.

Makes sense to use stock wire colors, I'll make sure to get the sizes you specified.

What companies make good quality connectors, terminals and wires?

Offline calj737

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 19,122
  • I refuse...
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2018, 02:56:12 am »
It might be possible with the Blue to program the L/R into a single button, but personally I prefer to locate these on either side of the bars for intuition and ergonomics. A quick double tap might swap the direction, but with a momentary switch it’s usually ON then OFF with clicks. You do get autocancel as a feature with the m-unit.

I like and use the 3/2 button setups from MotoG.

The only downside to not using the M-Lock is you can’t loan your bike unless yo loan your phone.  :-\ Also, there is the slightest potential for security issues of someone hacking the M-Unit thru a BT connection. Just saying....
'74 550 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126401.0
'73 500 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132935.0

*** Currently experiencing life at 60 WTFs per hour ***
I always thought getting old would take longer

Offline bagatyr

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 17
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2018, 07:59:11 pm »
Ah I see that there's a MotoG 3button setup with a button on the back side of the housing. I like that better than the 3 on the front.

Where do you usually get your wires/connectors/terminals that match the stock CB colors?

Offline Airborne 82nd

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 701
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2018, 10:59:10 pm »
Ah I see that there's a MotoG 3button setup with a button on the back side of the housing. I like that better than the 3 on the front.

Where do you usually get your wires/connectors/terminals that match the stock CB colors?

https://newmotorcycleparts.net/electrical/connectors.html

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html

















« Last Edit: July 19, 2018, 12:40:55 am by Airborne 82nd »

Offline calj737

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 19,122
  • I refuse...
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2018, 04:06:22 am »
Where do you usually get your wires/connectors/terminals that match the stock CB colors?
I normally buy wire form McMaster-Carr in 20' spools. I use 22AWG from the M-switches at the handlebars to the M-Unit. I use 18AWG from the M-unit to the actual component. You're not carrying a lot of amps across these separated segments, so you can use smaller gauge wire than stock. Only the battery POS, Starter motor wires do I use stock sizes for.

I have cannibalized stock harnesses (when available) to get enough wire of the 2-colors to use those, or you can find suppliers (like listed above) and get some specialty pieces for those circuits. Often I use Purple for BRAKE as its an orphaned color anyway. Solid BLACK from AUX, and then I use the 2nd color (like Yellow for Gr/Yllw wire) if I need it. Its not perfect, but it gets me pretty close.

Don't use those cheap plastic crimp on type terminals you buy at the auto parts store. Spend the $ and get a proper crimping tool, some heat shrink, and crimp and cover the ends. It will be a more reliable and weather-resistant installation. And use the "locking" type connectors for ganged wires.
'74 550 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126401.0
'73 500 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132935.0

*** Currently experiencing life at 60 WTFs per hour ***
I always thought getting old would take longer

Offline bagatyr

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 17
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2018, 02:11:09 pm »
Thanks guys! Those links are perfect. I'm planning to use this bike for a long time so I don't want to cheap out on the wiring, I'd hate to chase down bad connections after everything is put together.

I appreciate the help!

Offline piefairy

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 175
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #8 on: July 19, 2018, 05:46:22 pm »
Calj knows the M-unit well. I agree with him that you will need 5 buttons minimum. I have to motogadget m-switch mini's installed on mine. I have 2 of them both installed on the left side, but it takes a bit of mental retraining to get used to it and where the buttons are at. I took the "easy" route wiring my bike the first time by trying to make a harness on the bike... it looks like crap, so I am making a new one. Also with using the timed button press, what I have found is its a bit more difficult than I would like to rely on. There are 3 "states" momentary, a quick press and release, 2 sec hold, and 3 sec hold. My issue is with the 2 and 3 sec hold. I find you need to really think about how long you press the switch to get what you are looking for. The only function I use that has all 3 states are my headlights. Low beam is on by default, quick press flashes high, 2 sec goes to high only, and 3 sec goes dark. The problem I find is that if I am late releasing the low to high (2sec hold) I end up with no lights when I want highbeams only. Not to comforting. I am not sure how far you can customize what each button/state does, I haven't played with it, but be aware that it is a bit sensitive between the hold times.

Offline bagatyr

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 17
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2018, 06:10:55 pm »
Thanks for the input, I didn't realize what sort of programming functions it would have. I'll definitely have 5 buttons. Not sure how I want the headlight to be programmed, this is mostly a daytime bike, I'll have a different bike for overnight trip/long distance.

Offline calj737

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 19,122
  • I refuse...
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #10 on: July 20, 2018, 06:22:33 pm »
Default function for the momentary for headlight is:
Key and LO is ON
Interrupted with START
Press 1 time for HI
Press again for LO
Double tap to extinguish headlight

There are other “sequences” for tricks like Hazards, settings for PARK, dimmable running lights, etc.
'74 550 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126401.0
'73 500 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132935.0

*** Currently experiencing life at 60 WTFs per hour ***
I always thought getting old would take longer

Offline Bastaldo

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 11
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #11 on: October 09, 2018, 09:51:51 am »
Hey there- I've done the same thing with my 550, but i've got an electric problem. did you wire from the coils straight back to the m-unit? And did you get rid of the kill switch?

Offline calj737

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 19,122
  • I refuse...
Re: mUnitBlu wiring and questions
« Reply #12 on: October 09, 2018, 12:07:27 pm »
Hey there- I've done the same thing with my 550, but i've got an electric problem. did you wire from the coils straight back to the m-unit? And did you get rid of the kill switch?
What “electric” problem do you have? Might be better to start a thread in SOHC section to keep your issues separated from this OP.
'74 550 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126401.0
'73 500 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132935.0

*** Currently experiencing life at 60 WTFs per hour ***
I always thought getting old would take longer

 

;
Honda