Topic: CB550K - right angle screwdriver attachment review

[eigenvector]

On the CB550k people inevitably try to remove the float bowls without dismounting the carb rack, doing this is usually an act in futility - either the clutch housing is in the way or the starter cover is in the way.  Either way - it's in the way.

I've tried various right-angle attachments for screwdrivers and none of them have been particularly good.  Well - I just found one.

Because I had to drill out a stripped carb bowl screw then tap it - I also got myself (yet) another right-angle screwdriver attachment.  This time a Milwaukee right angle attachment
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-22-8510-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B000BYEJ02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534102323&sr=8-1&keywords=milwaukee+right+angle+attachment&dpID=312XGD4PPAL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I have to say that this one actually works.  It's light, has smooth action, and so long as you don't apply huge amounts of torque I suspect it will last far longer than the others I've tried over the ages.  It has a low profile so it fits in those tight spaces.

[754]

 I would switch the screws to Allen heads   or hex posts with a setscew  in the end , to replace what you got.

[przjohn]

Remove the carbs.

 When I was 16 years old and working at a gas station the mechanic, who I learned a Bible full of knowledge from told me, ‘“If something is in your way, or, you need to take the time to remove something blocking your access properly, do it. It will save you much grief down the road”

[calj737]

I would never use an electric tool to remove small screws. And, if you used JIS drivers, you would fare even better (unless the screws have been replaced). A simple bit in a small ratchet with an extension works just fine.

And tapping a screw hole without looking at it dead square, and unobstructed is perilous.

[eigenvector]

You guys are pretty harsh.

[calj737]

Harsh wasn't my intention, only passing along sage advice. Point is: when precision or delicate matters, hand tools are the most successful. And being able to see clearly exactly what you're doing leads to a lot more success than craning your neck, upside down, blind-fudging something does.

Remember, there's never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over... or so it is said. 

[carnivorous chicken]

I've used different style 90-degree drivers for years for float bowls with carbs still on the bike. On a 350F, getting the carbs off to remove a speck of dust blocking a jet on one carb is a much more onerous task that fiddling with a 90-degree driver to remove a single float bowl. And it's not like float bowl screws are cranked on there. That being said, each time I do it I think I won't have to do it again -- I think 754's allen bolts would be the best fix. That deriver looks good but it's also $50+...

[Bankerdanny]

I had the bowls off my 550 with the carbs still mounted multiple times this spring fighting sticking float needles. It actually isn't that difficult and doesn't require special tools.

[Duanob]

Personally I don't think that tool would fit in between the case and carbs anyway. I use one of these and it's a lot cheaper. A 1" #2 bit works perfect.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html
 

[Bankerdanny]

Personally I don't think that tool would fit in between the case and carbs anyway. I use one of these and it's a lot cheaper. A 1" #2 bit works perfect.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html

Exactly. I also use a magnetic bit holder to clear the bottom of the bowls.

[Bankerdanny]

If you drop all 4 bowls start with the 2 inside carbs first so you don't risk damaging the floats on the outside ones.

[carnivorous chicken]

If you drop all 4 bowls start with the 2 inside carbs first so you don't risk damaging the floats on the outside ones.

I drop the outside ones first and remove the floats so it's easier to get to the inside ones!

[Bankerdanny]

It depends on what you need to do. I can tell you from much personal experience that getting the floats and needles back in place with the carbs on the bike is much harder than actually taking the bowls off.

[MicahDT]

I have removed the needles, floats, slides, and jets on the 1974 cb550k without removing them from the bike. I purchased a $10 Stanley 1/4" drive socket set with a Phillips bit in a 1/4" socket. Just have to take care to be gentle with the floats, but everything comes out and goes in with only a bit of patience.
I tried replacing with hex bolts at one point and the caps were too large to seat properly. I've used Allen caps before, but they often strip easier than a properly torqued Phillips head. This is largely why aircraft use Phillips head over Allen.

[TwoTired]

I have removed the needles, floats, slides, and jets on the 1974 cb550k without removing them from the bike. I purchased a $10 Stanley 1/4" drive socket set with a Phillips bit in a 1/4" socket. Just have to take care to be gentle with the floats, but everything comes out and goes in with only a bit of patience.
I tried replacing with hex bolts at one point and the caps were too large to seat properly. I've used Allen caps before, but they often strip easier than a properly torqued Phillips head. This is largely why aircraft use Phillips head over Allen.

+1
 I still prefer phillips/ JIS to save the threads in the carb bodies. Neophytes tend to overtorque everything, and allens will transfer more torque before the head strips. Unlikely to fit a torque wrench into the space available.
I found a couple of screwdrivers that just fit between screw head and motor.  On one, I cut some handle off to fit the space available.  I also have a small right angle ratchet handle with open hex drive, the same size as standard bits with extentions.  I have several tools made or modified to fit the task.  Standard procedure for me.  Learned from working on aircraft with tight spaces in which to work.

One tip on cross drive tools.  Replace them when worn.  New bits and tips are far less likely to "cam out" of the screw head, damaging the screw head in the process.  Further, engage the screw head straight on in line with screw shaft.  This keeps the screw head to driver engagement in maxium contact with each other and minimizes wear on both driver and screw head.

Cheers,

[calj737]

I have removed the needles, floats, slides, and jets on the 1974 cb550k without removing them from the bike. I purchased a $10 Stanley 1/4" drive socket set with a Phillips bit in a 1/4" socket. Just have to take care to be gentle with the floats, but everything comes out and goes in with only a bit of patience.
I tried replacing with hex bolts at one point and the caps were too large to seat properly. I've used Allen caps before, but they often strip easier than a properly torqued Phillips head. This is largely why aircraft use Phillips head over Allen.

+1
 I still prefer phillips/ JIS to save the threads in the carb bodies. Neophytes tend to overtorque everything, and allens will transfer more torque before the head strips. Unlikely to fit a torque wrench into the space available.
I found a couple of screwdrivers that just fit between screw head and motor.  On one, I cut some handle off to fit the space available.  I also have a small right angle ratchet handle with open hex drive, the same size as standard bits with extentions.  I have several tools made or modified to fit the task.  Standard procedure for me.  Learned from working on aircraft with tight spaces in which to work.

One tip on cross drive tools.  Replace them when worn.  New bits and tips are far less likely to "cam out" of the screw head, damaging the screw head in the process.  Further, engage the screw head straight on in line with screw shaft.  This keeps the screw head to driver engagement in maxium contact with each other and minimizes wear on both driver and screw head.

Cheers,

All this is great, except, the stock screws were/are JIS and not Phillips. Wonder why they "cam" out? Personally, I often use button head cap screws. A loose Allen Wrench is small, easy to fit into these places, and fits perfectly into align the tool/drive of the screw. Doesn't take but a nudge to nip up the proper torque for a carb bowl with a rubber O-ring beneath it. No stripping, no electricity, fits under the seat.

[MicahDT]

Modern #2 Phillips work well with the JIS if torque is applied properly. Not to mention most bit sets include a JIS bit often confused as a #3 Phillips. Honestly Allen or JIS/Phillips work well when torqued properly. I tend to avoid Allen because it is very easy to over-torque and on the off-chance external factors cause it to tighten, a cross patterned head is less likely to strip. An offset screwdriver is cheap and as small as an Allen wrench.