Author Topic: Electrical help needed 1975 CB550F (Read 3029 times)

Can550 · « **on:** August 16, 2018, 02:02:22 PM »

Turn signals were not working so started troubleshoot.

With test light when i touch the components steel plate (one on the right side of bike where fuse box and other components mount) and light comes on. Dont thing it should. Remove fuesbox to check if it was touching on the back but nothing, will check other wires and connectors one by one, would appreciate to learn if anyone had similar issue.

Thanks,

Can550 · « **Reply #1 on:** August 16, 2018, 03:02:03 PM »

one step ahead,
when touched rectifier, test light lit up, replace it, no longer on it but no on regulator body and all three connectors light up?

I guess one of them must be ground, why all three light up, appreciate help

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #2 on:** August 17, 2018, 05:46:33 AM »

Why are you testing and replacing the rectifier to fix a turn signal issue?

MicahDT · « **Reply #3 on:** August 17, 2018, 05:53:45 AM »

Do your other electrical circuits work? Does the headlight, front turn signals, and taillight work? Will the bike run? If so you need to trace the wires from the turn signals. Check the blubs and break out a multimeter. If you don't have a wiring diagram, there are several on this site.

Can550 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 17, 2018, 07:01:58 AM »

Taillight/ brake light work, headlight wires are cut so cant check. idiot lights work except turn signals and bike starts

MicahDT · « **Reply #5 on:** August 17, 2018, 08:21:58 AM »

Do the front signals/position lights work?

TwoTired · « **Reply #6 on:** August 17, 2018, 09:48:58 AM »

Is your battery voltage to low to activate the turn flasher?

Cheers,

Can550 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 20, 2018, 10:07:14 AM »

Hello everyone
Hope you all had good weekend. I did some troubleshooting and I have power in all green/ground connectors. Don’t know where to start.

It’s short somewhere but where, can’t figure out

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TwoTired · « **Reply #8 on:** August 20, 2018, 10:57:26 AM »

Technically your statement is normal.

All power transitions between the battery POS post and the Battery NEG post, using both positively labeled wires AND the negatively labeled wires such as green.

Since your meter needs a reference with which to read positive voltage, you need to be specific about where you are placing your meter probes when you report a reading from the meter.

But, I wonder if your battery Neg connection is truly making contact with your frame, metal to metal, and not insulated by paint.

Cheers,

Can550 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 20, 2018, 01:28:30 PM »

After I re-read my post, yes it is not very informative, with frustration perhaps my hands worked faster than brain

I have connected an external battery to bike while working on it. I figured out that headlight will not work until my push start button is in place as it will keep continuity to headlight so that is aside now. When i connect alligator clip of my test lamp to ground/ engine block and touch the tip with any hot wire, it lights up, which is normal now moving on when i touch components plate behind right cover, it lights up there too, green ground connectors in headlight bucket, it lights up, green wire on coils, it lights up, regulator body, it lights up. Have taken wiring apart, checked all colours, coordinated correct, not sure what is going on.

TwoTired · « **Reply #10 on:** August 20, 2018, 02:59:44 PM »

The engine block and the points plate should be at same potential. I mean it's a solid piece of metal. How could it not, unless parts are insulated with paint?

Maybe you have discovered a unique source of energy?

I'm thinking you need a voltmeter. Or at least a better description of the test tool you are using.

Cheers,

MicahDT · « **Reply #11 on:** August 21, 2018, 07:15:56 AM »

The frame is metal grounded, so any metal on metal (unpainted) contact will create continuity. As mentioned, voltage readings would be more insightful than simple continuity.

Can550 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 21, 2018, 11:41:15 AM »

If following two photos explain where I’m struggling.

Black prong of voltmeter anywhere on body/ engine and red prong on any ground/ green connector, regulator body, components plate on left side (where all connectors are) I get 12 volts (or whatever is the voltage on battery)

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TwoTired · « **Reply #13 on:** August 22, 2018, 12:31:03 AM »

What is the voltmeter showing when one probe is on the battery NEG terminal and the other is on the engine block?

Is the key switch on in your tests?

Cheers,

Can550 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 22, 2018, 06:09:30 PM »

Zero voltage

I have taken wiring harness off the bike, will check all wires for continuity and any short. While doing so, will also clean up all bullet connectors for build up corrosion/ resistance. Shall report back.

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Can550 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 24, 2018, 08:00:18 PM »

RESOLVED
had taken wiring off bike. Checked all wires end to end, all clear.

Ground connector that bolts on to frame with coils mount, whole area of frame was rusted along with brass connector, cleaned up everything put the wiring back and all good.

I suspect bad ground was causing this.

I thank everyone especially TT for interest and response to my posts.

Will continue working on bike and if stuck again somewhere, will be back here. Cheers

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Can550 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 25, 2018, 09:18:17 AM »

It has started to look like a cb550f finally. About three pinholes on the right side wall of gas tank, just above the bottom joint. For cleaning inside rust purpose I have soldered them but would like to know a recommended solution without damaging the paint much.

Tank paint isn’t in greatest condition, keeping it original is desired.

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TwoTired · « **Reply #17 on:** August 25, 2018, 09:32:02 AM »

The tank pin holes are bad news. I have a tank like that on the shelf, perfect outside except leaking through tank blisters in the paint.

The pin holes represent thinned metal. Future etching removes even more metal. A planned project is to use electrolysis to remove the rust and then try a tank liner that can survive ethanol fuel. But, I just can't see the paint surviving the repair process. I wound up getting another tank for the bike to run it. Still have the holy one for when the paint booth is set up.

Cheers,

Can550 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 25, 2018, 09:36:32 AM »

I’m planning to fill it up with 5 gallons of vinegar and leave it couple of days. When all rust is clear then may use POR15 to seal it
Any thoughts on that.

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Can550 · « **Reply #19 on:** August 25, 2018, 11:33:33 AM »

Or get a black powder coated gas tank which is lined too

Metal rescue is 35$ a gallon here

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MicahDT · « **Reply #20 on:** August 25, 2018, 08:48:39 PM »

I've heard people have promising results with Evaporust. It is safe on everything, but cost about $20 a gallon. Just a thought.

TwoTired · « **Reply #21 on:** August 26, 2018, 12:27:01 AM »

All chemical treatments will thin the metal further and likely yeild more pin holes. Electrolysis removes the rust without attacking the parent metal.

Be prepared to repaint the tank after repairing the new acid induced pin holes.

Cheers,

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #22 on:** August 27, 2018, 10:35:47 AM »

Could try "the works" toilet cleaner. Rinse with distilled water. That takes away rust really well.

It's generally despised here. But Red Kote tank liner basically forms a membrane on the tank walls. Doesn't care about pinholes or a little rust either.

TwoTired · « **Reply #23 on:** August 28, 2018, 12:55:08 AM »

Quote from: BomberMann650 on August 27, 2018, 10:35:47 AM

Could try "the works" toilet cleaner. Rinse with distilled water. That takes away rust really well..

...because it is acidic to dissolve mineral deposits in the toilet that absorbs stains. It also attacks/dissolves iron oxide AND iron in the steel, thinning the tank metal. If it was close to developing a pin hole before, acids will finish the process of making new ones.

FYI

Can550 · « **Reply #24 on:** August 28, 2018, 07:04:13 PM »

Agreed per your initial suggestion
Therefore going to get rid of rust with electrolysis perhaps coming weekend

Meantime working on 79 cb650
Cheers

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BomberMann650 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 29, 2018, 02:07:31 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on August 28, 2018, 12:55:08 AM

Quote from: BomberMann650 on August 27, 2018, 10:35:47 AM
Could try "the works" toilet cleaner. Rinse with distilled water. That takes away rust really well..
...because it is acidic to dissolve mineral deposits in the toilet that absorbs stains. It also attacks/dissolves iron oxide AND iron in the steel, thinning the tank metal. If it was close to developing a pin hole before, acids will finish the process of making new ones.

FYI

Its not exactly something to leave overnight.

TwoTired · « **Reply #26 on:** August 30, 2018, 12:56:11 AM »

Quote from: BomberMann650 on August 29, 2018, 02:07:31 PM

Quote from: TwoTired on August 28, 2018, 12:55:08 AM
Quote from: BomberMann650 on August 27, 2018, 10:35:47 AM
Could try "the works" toilet cleaner. Rinse with distilled water. That takes away rust really well..
...because it is acidic to dissolve mineral deposits in the toilet that absorbs stains. It also attacks/dissolves iron oxide AND iron in the steel, thinning the tank metal. If it was close to developing a pin hole before, acids will finish the process of making new ones.

FYI

Its not exactly something to leave overnight.

Ok. So how do you know when it has finished removing the rust and starts attacking base metal?

If a tank already has pin holes from rust, how much metal is left elsewhere?

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Author Topic: Electrical help needed 1975 CB550F (Read 3029 times)

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