Topic: Making some progress

[jaytee-nz]

There are two types of gauges for early CB500's. One for the US market and one for other countries.
They have different mount brackets as well. The one in the picture is for non-US gauges.
You can tell the different gauges by looking at the threaded fitting for the cables. The US version fitting is on an angle and the other version comes out of the gauge at 90 degrees.

[RAFster122s]

Weren't the gauge angles changed between the cb500 and cb550 or was that during the production of the cb550 I am recalling.. The 550 angled so you could read them easier while riding (quicker).

[jaytee-nz]

The original 1971 model had common gauges and brackets for all countries. The change was made for the US K1 1972 model only.
I believe you are correct in that it provided more angle for better viewing.
The CB500 K2 onwards and the CB550 gauges were the larger CB750 style gauges.

[Fezzler]

Thanks guys.  So valuable to learn the subtle differences between years and models.  The change in the top triple bolt from 8mm to 7mm had me scratching my head for two days.  I'm going to have to do a third bike to keep on learning.

[jaytee-nz]

Fezz - are you in the US ? Just curious about why you would have a non US bracket.
I only learnt about all the differences a few months ago while restoring my K1 CB500. The bike didn't come with any gauges at all (in fact it was basically a frame, engine and wheels) and after buying several gauges from around the world I realised they were different.

[Fezzler]

I am in the United States.  North Carolina.  I bought the parts bike from a fellow in Athens, GA and it came from a previous owner in TN.

Who knows?  Replacement gauges?  Perhaps the K0s used same parts as UK in some early runs?  Maybe the bike will only run on the left side of the road?

If it is UK, I may need to replace.

Erin Go Bragh!

 

[Little_Phil]

That's the correct bracket Fezz. I have a stock (VIN 23k <5k miles) US K0 and a later UK K1. Both have that gauge mount. Only one bolt per gauge which is not ideal support. Only changed on US 500 K2 and up which the UK never got. Then with larger angled gauges and two bolts each support.

[Fezzler]

I am in the United States.  North Carolina.  I bought the parts bike from a fellow in Athens, GA and it came from a previous owner in TN.

Who knows?  Replacement gauges?  Perhaps the K0s used same parts as UK in some early runs?  Maybe the bike will only run on the left side of the road?

If it is UK, I may need to replace.

Erin Go Bragh!

I see on my 550, the angled bracket with double posts is improved design.  I may use some rubber washers on the 500 to minimize some vibration.

 

[jaytee-nz]

Maybe Honda did mix and match between countries but according to their own parts list the K1 USA model had a different mounting plate as shown on the attached diagram.

[Little_Phil]

That's interesting jaytee. It seems that the K0s all had the same plate (Fezz's is a K0 I think) but the K1 had different plates for USA to the rest of the world. Everywhere else retained the K0 plate for the K1.
Apart from the different plate there appears to be slightly different mounting collars and the instruments have two illumination bulbs each. Confusingly two are shown for the tacho, but only one for the speedo, but 4 bulbs are called up. 

[jaytee-nz]

I have sets of both types of gauges and they are quite different like you say. The mounting plates, number of bulbs, cable attachments - even the black shrouds are slightly different lengths. The other difference is the cut outs on the face plate of the speedo's. The trip meter cut out is higher on the face plate for the USA model. Talk about complicate things !

[Fezzler]

Progress but slow due to work.

Polished covers beginning to go on.

Chain is on with guard. 

Found that rear has too much wobble.  I did true rim.  Had only tiny sway (-2) then so I was fine.  But after tires/chain installed, balanced and wheel installed, much more wobble.  Anything to check other than re-truing wheel?

Continuing my patient approach.

[jgger]

Just make sure the bead is seated evenly all the way around. If it isn't break it off of the rim ( not remove) lube it up and air it up. I usually do this with the valve core out because it will take much more than proper running pressure to get it seated. Once it is seated let the air out re-install the valve core and air to proper pressure. EZPZ!

[Bodi]

Exactly. Tubeless tires don't seat easily on tube rims. Lube, overpressure, and some spirited pounding with a big rubber mallet is often needed. Most tires have an embossed line in a circle around the bead area: this should be very close to exactly equal distance from the rim edge all the way around the wheel.

[Fezzler]

Well, after being sick (excuse), a long, wet cold winter (excuse), new role at work (excuse) and the holidays (excuse) I am motivated to get back on the 71 cb500.  Getting close.

To start, this isn't good.  Can I splice (solder) in some new wires and use some shrink tube and be good to go?

Next up is clean tank (possible liner removal with acetone), wiring, brakes and controls, ignition (points/condenser), etc.

Let's get back on it!  This one will be sweet when it runs (if?) - we'll see.

[Fezzler]

Hey man! 

I think this is a Scott spare.  I just may have another stator in my box of stuff if rewiring is not advised.

Happy Easter Cal!

[bryanj]

You can repair that no problem as long as you clean it well and can solder good!

[Scott S]

See if Scott has a spare.

 I probably have a spare.
 If the stator wires aren't damaged, I'd just wrap electrical tape around them (if the stator tests good). I think I already told you I have a good field coil, for the cover you got polished. I'd definitely replace that, though you may be able to solder and save those wires. But I should have a spare.

[Fezzler]

Hey Scott.

Yea, I replaced the coil.  I think I will attempt a repair as I can solder well. 

(Cal...By "I" you know I mean Andrea.    )

Thanks. 

Catch ya soon.

[Fezzler]

All repaired, tested to be in specifications and installed.  Feels good to be back out in garage with door open, cool breeze, tunes playing and relaxing by eating the elephant.  Strangely, my Mrs. said the same thing - good to have me out there?

Next, instrument cluster. 

[Fezzler]

Moving to the Crank Cover.  Anything in particular before I install it?

The little steel ball I assume just drops into the clutch lifter?  Grease it?

Does the clutch lifter rod get greased or is it lubed by engine oil once installed?

And on a 500, of course, the clutch cable gets installed before the cover goes on.  Anything to watch there.  Do I lube new cables?

Thanks pros.


 

[Fezzler]

Reminder.  Here is progress so far. 

[Scott S]

 Looking good!

[Fezzler]

Well, two hours trying to figure out why in the &%$# world this left crankcase cover will not go on snug, especially at the bottom.

Shoot me.  LOL. There was a dowel pin in both the case and engine block.  Ugh. 

Chain is ever so slightly rubbing the case protector, so off it goes again.

Fun!

[Fezzler]

Starter in.  Carbs on.  (New rubber is much easier to install than old rubber!)

Making progress.  Adjusted cam chain tensioner. Air box and front brake system next.