Topic: Well I'm back with a new project.

[MetroRedneck]

I'm not a fan of the tappet covers and the way the gaskets fit.  Last time I had mine apart I went ahead and re-threaded the cover holes so I could actually get them tight enough to not leak.

That's a bad idea actually. The O-ring is there to prevent the tappet cover galling the threads in the cover. Without that, you may well find your tappet cover permanently seized the next time you attempt to adjust your valves.

The O-ring provides both an oil seal and a tension "guide" for the "torque".

Still have all the o-rings and seals.  Just new threads for the fancy covers and cover bolts to tighten against.  The 650 has the three covers with gaskets.

PO had stripped about half of them out so they didn't tighten and used hondabond or some other sealant unsuccessfully.  Seems to be a common theme on my Hondas.

[MetroRedneck]

Looking for a good set of levers and master cylinder since my rebuild kit is 80$ I can buy new levers for 150ish. Now pcs for all that are interested

I'll check my 650 stash.  I think I have a lever or two.  I have a mc from a 550 that functions but is on original rubbers I'm sure.  I don't know what the bore difference is if any.  Looking at your pic, I don't know if that's the original anyway.  I had a different style on my 79.  Not sure if it was changed.

[westhewelder]

My options are rebuild the originator 111$ or buy a complete aftermarket nicer styling for 80. Pretty easy choice if I have to say so.

So don't ask me why but I'm not happy with how I put the top end together on this motor. I think it's going to get cleaned up again.

Might make some changes when it come to paint going to go a red frame with gun metal grey tank.

Aesthetically speaking would like to go with a rear hoop maybe a brat with optional cafe cowl. I like having the option of 2 up

So I guess first thing is first get my metal work done on the frame and seat. Then I can send that for blasting and powder.

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[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

My options are rebuild the originator 111$ or buy a complete aftermarket nicer styling for 80. Pretty easy choice if I have to say so.

So don't ask me why but I'm not happy with how I put the top end together on this motor. I think it's going to get cleaned up again.

Might make some changes when it come to paint going to go a red frame with gun metal grey tank.

Aesthetically speaking would like to go with a rear hoop maybe a brat with optional cafe cowl. I like having the option of 2 up

So I guess first thing is first get my metal work done on the frame and seat. Then I can send that for blasting and powder.

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Just my $0.02 but a brat-style seat is not very comfortable and REALLY not very practical/safe for 2-up riding (nothing for the passenger to sit into to keep from sliding off the back).  Most people who have brat-style seats acknowledge that the bike is not comfortable for more than in-town, low-mile trips.

[westhewelder]

Any suggestions for a nice seat that is comfortable and doesn't look like a office chair? I do have an appreciation for the cafe style seat but is that any better for a solo rider?

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[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Any suggestions for a nice seat that is comfortable and doesn't look like a office chair? I do have an appreciation for the cafe style seat but is that any better for a solo rider?

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You are really only limited by your imagination.  If you don't like the bulk of the stock seat, you can trim down the foam and make it a lower profile seat with decent cushion and less mass.  I believe Camrector did this on his most recent 650 engine/550 frame build.  You can also add stiffer foam and/or a gel insert.

Café-style seats can be comfortable and supportive depending on the thickness and density of foam used; a seat hump also provides a natural backstop keeping you from sliding rearward on fast acceleration. 

If you want something turnkey, there are still some options.  Check out Motolanna (similar if not the same seat used by Cognitomoto for its 550 build).

[westhewelder]

So here's some update pictures and a fair few things have changed on the bike quite a bit...

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[JoeCooley]

Good progress! I really like the red frame but your shop floor looks like a crime scene. Why not put down some cardboard?

[westhewelder]

It was covered in oil none of the paint will stick. I'm going to do a good paint and clean this summer anyways I think.

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[westhewelder]

So today will be a clean up day for stray tools and now is the fun part all the parts are going on for good pictures to come.

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[westhewelder]

Cleaned house today ģot carbs in wiring harness in need to figure out what I want to do for and electronics box. I don't like the idea of the battery on the swing arm. So I have a couple other ideas

what have people used for mounting custom made seats and electric boxes?

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[westhewelder]

A couple pictures cleaned out the tank and welded up a polished the component tray. Also managed to find a 7" bucket.

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[westhewelder]

I've been busy lately with work running my side business and such. So here's an update where we left off. A lot has changed I've gone through 2 frame color and 3 tank paint jobs as well as 3 seats that I just couldn't get to a point where I was happy.

 Started going through the wirong harness finding the gremlins broken wires here and there, cleaning up the running of the wire and component locations.

 I still have a few odds and ends to pick up looking and exhaust designs. I am glad how ever I decided to give spare motor the bottom end of the gear case had a blow out in one of the cylinder bolt holes. I don't think I can weld it without warping the surface unfortunately.

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[RAFster122s]

You want to strip the paint from the filler neck opening and seal the bare metal to paint line with a swipe of JB Weld to prevent fuel from getting beneath the paint and ruining the paint around the filler opening.

Why fiberglass seat pan now?

Tank paint looks nice.

David

[westhewelder]

Thanks for the tip! No fuel in it yet so not too late lol. Well I went from aluminum pan looked and kinda felt crappy tried fiber glass same thing wasn't happy with the fit and look or how to upholster it.

 So I want to get into metal shaping for a long time so I invested into an English wheel, mallet and sand bag, and a shrinker stretcher set and I'm pretty happy with the solo seat style more of a traditional look. If me and the wife want to do two up I can still work on the brat seat or we can just pick up an old goldwing.

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[westhewelder]

So little update I'm in the middle of cleaning the tank out I have vinegar sitting it right now hopefully I don't spring a leak after the paint job.

Doing up some wiring and have a box of parts on the way then it's just some elbow grease tires and exhaust. I've decided I'm going to make this a bit of a tribute bike though. Last year my dad passed away been kinda mourning that in silence, and I'd like to get this bike ready for next season. We have a few ride for fundraisers for mental health and the distinguished gentleman's ride As Well as men's cancer awareness so I'm thinking I may  take his ashes with me on those rides.

 As a young man I never got to spend a lot of time with my dad working on projects he would come out have a smoke and sit but was too sick to ever really help. Even from as young as 12 so this is for him and for all the things he didn't get to do. And when time comes I hope to keep this bike long enough to pass it along to my new nephew or if things change my own kid, so he can experience what I never had.

Now that that that's out of the way I need some words of wisdom on some wiring I have a few hiccups and it's nothing forseeably major.

I have a white and green wire, and empty brow connector at the front and a grey wire that are raising eyebrows for me.

The grey wire runs from clutch side control straight back to the blinker relay with a female spade connector not sure where that plugs in.

Brown connector comes off to connector to rear tail light. My guess just empty?

Then I have the white can green connected to brake switch and the relay in the rear. Goes up to headlight buck splits into two. But I have 3 connectors that require connection from fuse box, left control and right control.

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[westhewelder]

White and green the part that confused is is the loop in and out of the connector in the diagram pictured.

The brown wire is run from switch to female connector which is empty in the headlight bucket then back to the tail light.

And the grey wire isn't pictured on the diagram.

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