Topic: Manual cam chain adjuster...thoughts?

[My73andme]

I read a thread about this when it must have been new but didn’t have much info on how it does compared to the stock one. I am having some nosiy chain rattle and have tried 15 degrees pass T adjustment. Found this manual one since I have to buy a new part either way. This seems pretty cool, just saw it like 5 mins ago

Anyway who’s got one? Did it help? How did you adjust it?

[robvangulik]

The OEM tensioner can also be manually adjusted, so why would you buy another one?

[My73andme]

Because they fail like the one I currently have. They get worn and slip like the one I currently have. Just trying to get what’s more sustainable and I don’t care about stock if stock isn’t the best option.

Like I said...if you have one or have information about one please respond unless you are just completely bored and have nothing better to do then write something totally not helpful then go ahead if it makes you feel better.

I know you can manually adjust the oem tentioner and I also know that it’s not the ideal method but I think my push bar has a dimple and maybe the bolt keeps slipping back into that. So I can get a new bar or something different if it works better.

[robvangulik]

My point is, you never mentioned type and year, but I think it is safe to assume the tensioner in there has done its duty for over 40 years, and can well be worn now, but who says the one you have your eye on will do just as well?
Put a few new parts in , they are still available, and you are ready for the next 40 years.
The push bar has partnr. 14550300020 supersession: 14550300030

[calj737]

...and perhaps confirm the cam chain itself is not worn beyond spec...

[madmtnmotors]

Did you try syncing the carbs? Out of sync carbs can get the clutch to rattling pretty good. So you plan to crank down on the manual tensioner until the noise goes away? Sounds like a recipe for eventually generating some other unwanted noises...

The stock tensioners work well, I have yet to encounter a "slipping" one.

[slikwilli420]

The stock tensioner has a ramp on it so the bolt will need to back out before it can actually slip. If still in doubt, drill the end of the tensioner and add a set screw that you tighten after you adjust the cam chain per the manual. The issue with the manual tensioner is no one knows how much tension to put on the chain. Finger tight? Finger tight plus 1/8 turn? 1/4 turn? The spring on the stock one is the amount you need, but translating that to something repeatable is difficult. Very few guys actually run these, and you are better off servicing the stock one and getting it working properly again. My racer was going to get a manual one, until Kenny talked me out of it. Now it has a stock one that I pulled apart and freshened up.

[PeWe]

If I have got it right:
Those tensioners without spring is for racing where the chain could jump during heavy decelerations from high rpm. The stock adjuster could glide backwards allowing the chain to be sloppier.

I still use my stock tensioner that has over 110.000 km. Half of its life in a modified engine. Cam chain is HD and rather new.

Rattling cam chain that cannot be adjusted indicate an old sloppy chain that need to be replaced. If bike has not many miles/km, check if the spring is bad or something block it inside.

[My73andme]

Ok ok thanks guys. I submit I will get new stock parts

[robvangulik]

Your bike, your choice.
But I think it's  the right choice....

[754]

 Should be scads of used ones,..cheap..
Usec1/4 drive sockets if you have trouble reaching the bolts.

[My73andme]

Ok real quick question...

If I get the chain 15 pass T and retighten bolt and lock nut and start the bike up. While it’s running take a screw driver and push the push bar in (if I can) this method ideally will possibly put tension on the chain and quite the noise??? Then I can tighten the bolt back up (if the bar moves)

I have tried everything else so if this doesn’t work good chance my chain is stretched and needs replacing???

[madmtnmotors]

Ok real quick question...

If I get the chain 15 pass T and retighten bolt and lock nut and start the bike up. While it’s running take a screw driver and push the push bar in (if I can) this method ideally will possibly put tension on the chain and quite the noise??? Then I can tighten the bolt back up (if the bar moves)

I have tried everything else so if this doesn’t work good chance my chain is stretched and needs replacing???

These engines are inherently "rattily". Between the cam chain, primary chains, and the clutch there is no real way to tell where the actual source of this "excessive" noise you seem to think exists is coming from. Have the carbs been synced? Out of sync carbs, along with the uneven pulses associated with such, will cause the clutch to rattle. Also, the cam chain tensioner rod can become stuck in it's bore to the point that the spring will not be able to move it when the adjuster bolt is loosened. Sometimes a small tool inserted into the back of the tensioner can free it, other times it requires removal of the tensioner rod assembly from the rear of the cylinder block for closer inspection. Just three small bolts hold it in place and the gasket can often be reused.

Loosening the tensioner while the engine is running is not a good idea. How many miles on it? We have a member here (ofreen) that is approaching 200,000 miles with all of the original internal engine components intact. These engines were over-engineered and built to last.

[PeWe]

Adjust when engine idles does not work. I always unlocked it, put a pin in thru the hole, kicked the engine around step wise and noted where the pins deepest position. Locked the adjuster.

If ignition is not correctly set, it will rattle extra. Important that 1:4 and 2:3 are equally set. Best way is with a dwell meter, measure and adjust while idling. You will hear when points are equal. Check ignition with a strobe lamp and adjust if needed. Check points again.

[evinrude7]

went through the same concern that the OP is going through.  thinking, man this bike is noisy.  something is wrong.  this thing should sound perfectly smooth and quiet.  i was wrong.  these bikes are noisy.  they aren't modern bikes.  to the OP, i think you're chasing your tail on this.  i know i was. my 2 cents.  good luck. 

put it in first and keep the the clutch lever pulled.  sounds pretty good huh?  if not, follow the 3000 maintenance schedule and sync the carbs.     

[754]

If you have had liquid cooled bikes, yes, these are noisier.
Pull the clutch in at idle before  you call it noisy..

[My73andme]

Ok good ideas thanks

[flybox1]

You might be trying to make a 45 year old bike sound quiet like a new one  
Setting the cam chain tensioner is at most a 5 minute process, and the bulk of that is getting the ignition cover screws out. 
If you havent already, take off the cam chain tensioner unit, clean and grease it, and then put it back in.
Do this when the bike is 15past TDC, bolt it in, and lock it down.  Done.  Move on.
If its still rattly, timing, clutch, valves, and vacuum sync should be your focus.