Topic: Engine rebuilt cam chain dilemma

[morefour]

Hi All. I've just rebuilt the engine in my 400 four. I'm ready for the first start but, I've replaced the cam chain,guides, tensioner slipper and fitted a new machined tensioner horseshoe (from David Silver). My Haynes manual says to adjust the cam chain when the engine is running but it seems very odd to start the engine with no tension on the chain at all (tensioner is fully pushed back) Should I release the bolt to allow spring tension on the chain before starting or start with a floppy cam chain and release the bolt when it's running. I've done a lot of work to the engine and would gate to muck it up at this last stage!! Many thanks in advance for any replies.

[johans]

Release the bolt, rotate it by hand a few times  smoothly , no jerky motion ( plugs out )  and snug the bolt down . On the 750's you go a few degrees past #1 tdc ( where there is the most slack , loosen and tighten )  imho-

[morefour]

Great thanks. I'll feel a lot better if there's some tension on the chain before I start it!

[morefour]

I've just removed plugs and carefully slackened tensioner bolt off whilst slowly turning engine. All went well and I feel engines ready for it's first start as soon as I've put carb's back on. Many thanks for your reply.

[flatlander]

adding to that: get the genuine honda shop manual. not user guide, the full manual. it properly describes this and other procedures.
then locate the nearest paper recycling facility and politically correctly hand over the haynes manual into their care. 

[bryanj]

As an ex honda mech in uk i always unlock the tensioner, put weight on the kickstart till the engine is just about to turn then lock up the adjuster bolt and locknut. Works on all fours

[rotortiller]

As an ex honda mech in uk i always unlock the tensioner, put weight on the kickstart till the engine is just about to turn then lock up the adjuster bolt and locknut. Works on all fours

You still need to be at the correct position or you risk the valves and rockers pushing the camshaft and adding slack at the front chain area. You still would need to move the crank slightly while in the right position to pull the forward slack out.

[bryanj]

Not if you do as i said and hold pressure till the engine is just about to turn. Never had a problem in over 40 years

[rotortiller]

The engine crankshaft needs to turn a bit to take up the forward slack, not about to turn. If it does not move the slack remains. Camshaft torque loads variy during rotation, I'd say follow the book as what makes sense is in the link below.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=27593.0