Topic: Rinse carbs after soak?

[jakec]

I doubt Jim charged nearly that much to repair a float post. Might give him a ring before you proceed.

He meant with the  combined cost, considering the quoted ~$210 vapor blasting service, and then any welding cost on top of that. He said that if he were me, that's what he'd do.

[calj737]

Its true, you can find used carbs for about $100 for a rack. But damned if I'd run them without tearing them down completely and replacing them to stock config. By that time, me, I'd rather deal with a devil I know. And even though VB is not free, the result makes your carbs unbelievably beautiful. And clean, thoroughly clean.

Your bike, your dime.

[jakec]

There's a user here with a set asking $200. Is that unreasonable? I don't mind taking them down and cleaning them by hand.

I heard back from Jim French and he said that he doubted that he could repair the posts. On one hand that makes me feel better about #$%*ing them up (if they were already too fargone).

[754]

 I got some PD parts carbs ...which body do you need .?
 My sons PD carbs have a rotted post too , i think it's #1 carb. It .can work but if the rack comes apart we change the body.

[jakec]

My #4 is the worst but they all have some corrosion.

[RAFster122s]

Vapor blasting micro peens the metal. Glass bead blasting the outside of the bodies while prepping them you plug or tape every surface opening so you do not get glass bead in the carbs. It is a very nice finish too. But, if you can swing the $2xx for Nils, it is recommended as they are beautiful. Ask Nils about the passages if there is anything he does to clear them.

Even Chem Dip which is made for carbs will destroy a carb left in it too long turning the body dark grey and it can cause some carbs to fall apart when left for too long. So, no you should not feel stupid or dumb. I have that badge on a SU HS6 carb body with Chem dip.

[jakec]

Thanks RAF. I actually left the bowls in for only one night and they turned out great. I should not have left the rest of the rack in so long but i didn't think that added time would make a difference. I should have just done more research.

[jakec]

Quick question: I'm not yet sure if I'll be getting new bodies and transplanting my parts in, or getting a full new set of carbs. If I were to reuse my throttle slides, what would be the best way to clean them? I'm guessing really fine steel wool and just some careful scrubbing? I would like to salvage those parts if possible since they are like $20 each.

[754]

If they are black they are anodized , be carefull .
 The other year has chrome brass ones. And the 77 has adjustable needles, they are preffered.
 Let me know if you need the body.

[calj737]

0000 steel wool and Carb Cleaner spray.

[jakec]

If they are black they are anodized , be carefull .
 The other year has chrome brass ones. And the 77 has adjustable needles, they are preffered.
 Let me know if you need the body.

They a graphite color. I will be careful not to remove any finish. Are you offering to sell me a set of carb bodies? Because I would be interested! I'm currently looking at getting used sets on the rack off of craigslist. I figure whatever I get I'll have to rebuild so why not put my parts in a new set of bodies.

[754]

What i was going to do is pull a body off a incomplete parts rack.. I think we need #1
 Maybe see if you can get a complete set ....77 has the adjustable needles.

[scottly]

Frank, sounds like you are talking about 750 carbs, not Jake's 400 carbs?

[754]

 I am and I see now, that they are probably 400 carbs.. must be PD type and look similar..
 My bad..

[lowriderbud]

What are the PD model # you are looking for?  I have a rack of PD50-A carbs.  Miss #2 float bowl and tops, but I will make you a sweet deal if you can use them.

Later, Bud...

[jakec]

I'm not sure what the model number is but I can check on the bodies when I get home from work tonight. Where do I look on the body? These are for a 1975 400f.

[lowriderbud]

Model #s are on the right side of the #4 Carb just above the float bowl.

Later, Bud...

[jakec]

Model #s are on the right side of the #4 Carb just above the float bowl.

Later, Bud...

I could not find a number where you described, but I was able to find another number stamped on each body, it was 054A.

[jakec]

Does anyone know if Lowrider's carbs will work for my bike? I've read on here that you can also consider 350f carbs for the 400.

[jakec]

I found this set on ebay that looks to be in pretty good condition for a fair price. I contacted the seller about the number on the carb body. If the carbs came from a 400F then they should be fine right? Nothing changed across years did it? I also asked him why he listed them as "for parts" (makes me think something's up!)

He is also located in my area which is cool I guess.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-1977-Honda-cb400f-cb350f-cb350-cb400-cb-400-350-carburetor-carbs-carb-PARTS/292809479130?fits=Model%3ACB400F&hash=item442cce13da:g:kDsAAOSwdmlb5QlY:rk:14:pf:0

[lowriderbud]

The carburetors on eBay look great - complete and clean.  Also, the price is fair and the fitment chart says they will fit your bike.
You might contact the seller to see if they can provide more information about the condition (ie. slides work smoothly, nothing binding, etc.)  Make them an offer.

Later, Bud...

[jakec]

The carburetors on eBay look great - complete and clean.  Also, the price is fair and the fitment chart says they will fit your bike.
You might contact the seller to see if they can provide more information about the condition (ie. slides work smoothly, nothing binding, etc.)  Make them an offer.

Later, Bud...

I agree, they look nice. HOWEVER, if you look at his ebay store he has two sets listed, this one at $150 "for parts" and another at $250 listed without the "for parts" note. So it makes me wonder if there is something wrong with them. I'm waiting for a response now.

[jakec]

The response:

Hi, the slides are stuck, they will have to be completely taken apart because there is too much sand in the slides, these were out in Arizona so they were buried with sand at one point I just hosed them off but sand got in a lot of spots,, they can be cleaned but they will have to be completely dissembled to do that.

I don't mind taking them apart. They look nice on the outside. I can get a set off of a bike that has been sitting outside here in Seattle and the outside will be covered in white corrosion. I worry about sand in the bore of the throttle, though?

[jakec]

I ended up finding another set of carbs with good bodies. Having learned from my mistake a lot from this post, I am planning to get an ultrasonic cleaner and use purple simple green 50/50 with water.

My question is: I see a lot of discussion about getting a unit that can fit a whole carb rack.. Is it safe to assume that it's alright to leave rubber parts on? Like the fuel T tubes and others that would require dismantling the rack to remove.

Also, I just read on the forum here that a "rainbow" color to the carb bodies is natural after ultrasonic cleaning as this is the way they came from the factory. I had always assumed that the dark satin grey color that you usually see was normal.

[sixthwisconsin]

I don't think HF makes one big enough for the entire rack unless that's something new. Mine will do one carb body and all the internals. I use the Simple Green Pro HD 50/50 and give the longest cycle of 480 sec with the heat on. It takes me 7 or 8 cycles to do an entire rack that is dissembled along with all the linkage.

After one cycle is done I dump in the next and get it going while I rinse the clean parts with hot water thoroughly and blow dry with the compressor. Here is the result.