Frank - take a piece of 3/8 round bar, put some curvature to it, and grind the tip into a blunt/rounded nose with a taper. The smaller you make the point of it, the more “delicate” the result. With alloy, I’d make the tip about the diameter of a pencil.
Use a light source casting across the face of the tank. When you push from inside, you’ll be able to see where your tip actually is. A small welding mirror helps if you get out position and can’t see. Work slowly and don’t try to move too much too quickly and it will come up pretty as you please.
Work from the outside perimeter to the center. A small amount of propane to start will make it easy. You’ll likely need to tap down some high spots afterwards. A simple small brass drift 1/4 or better. Gentle taps down.
You could anneal it afterwards if you want it to get more stable. I’ve done dozens of our SOHC tanks and they can come out really well if you can get to the spot. The tunnel on that tank is the toughest part of your repair. It’s right in the way of getting any leverage and clearance to work. I’ve had to drill holes in bottoms (ala Scunny) and then weld those back up.