Topic: Shell T4

[beemerbum]

I don't want to start any new or old oil threads. That being said, it there is a lot of support for the Shell Rotella T4 oil. Why/

[rocket johnny]

     i have used it in my k6 for a few years .  seems to work good and its 12 bucks a gallon at wally world

[City Boy]

I use the 15/40 regular Rotella in my CB750 and 1100F.

[Bodi]

I think, from reading too many oil threads, that is safe for wet clutches and has enough zinc for our sliding cam followers. And it is relatively cheap compared to most JASO MA oils. Supposedly it would get that rating if Shell tested it ... but they are unlikely to test diesel lube for motorcycle use when they have Advance at a higher price.

[Tracksnblades1]

I'm not a Brand Whore, but these guys  have researched this to death. They also run this for 500hrs between intervals and longer depending on oil test analysis. There are studies that indicate Zinc levels significantly higher than 12% show higher wear after initial camshaft break in. Beware I put this in the Kids Honda TRX70 4wheeler  centrifugal clutch 4speed years ago and it wouldn't even move. Changed back to Vavoline and still running today 30 years later. I think Rotella is similar but Cat has double the sulfur content.

[evinrude7]

i've been using rotella 15/40 for a while now.  price is great, shifts good and seems to last a while. 

[PeWe]

That Rotella has another name in Europe? Or maybe not available at all?
I have read somewhere that oils from a specific manufacturer can differ depending on which country they are made for.

[seanbarney41]

i've been using rotella 15/40 for a while now.  price is great, shifts good and seems to last a while.

see, that's the thing though...i will use it from time to time only because it is cheap and readily available.  I find that it seems to wear out fast and make your bike shift poorly.

[Deltarider]

That Rotella has another name in Europe? Or maybe not available at all?
I have read somewhere that oils from a specific manufacturer can differ depending on which country they are made for.

Probably Rimula (there are quite a number of subspecies, mind you). Personally I find it sad this zinc thing is echoed over and over again. For our old bikes that are often used for 7 months a year only(!),  there's a thing far more important IMO and that's the ageing of the rubber seals. So far Castrol GTX High Mileage 15W-40 ( I don't operate my bike near freezing temperatures) has served me well and I was quite surprised that the notorious shift lever seal that had been leaking for years, has stopped doing so after I switched to GTX. I trust this oil will also help prolong the life of the valve stems seals.

[PeWe]

I have noticed differences between oils...how the gearbox feels.
The oil I use now allow getting in neutral with warm engine when bike is standing still. Gearbox feels smooth and work well.

Viscocity is important. I have used a few thinner oils for break-in only, 10W-40 and gearbox felt really bad and mechanic.
My engine get 20W-50 oil. Last summer's hot weather indicated that a 60 oil should taste good for my K6 engine. Oil temp in oil tank was often 120C (248F)

[Little_Phil]

That Rotella has another name in Europe? Or maybe not available at all?
I have read somewhere that oils from a specific manufacturer can differ depending on which country they are made for.

Possibly Shell Rimula rt4 x 15w-40

[Tracksnblades1]

This is for that oil engineer lurking in all of us. One of many laboratory load test of gasoline engine oils. Some diesel oils are included too.  Beware this is similar to the shower room, yours may not measure up. 😎

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

[evinrude7]

i've been using rotella 15/40 for a while now.  price is great, shifts good and seems to last a while.

see, that's the thing though...i will use it from time to time only because it is cheap and readily available.  I find that it seems to wear out fast and make your bike shift poorly.

sean that's my inexperience talking. i probably haven't used as many different oils as you have. it's the best one i've yet to use.  any off the shelf suggestions that perform better for you? 

[seanbarney41]

i've been using rotella 15/40 for a while now.  price is great, shifts good and seems to last a while.

see, that's the thing though...i will use it from time to time only because it is cheap and readily available.  I find that it seems to wear out fast and make your bike shift poorly.

sean that's my inexperience talking. i probably haven't used as many different oils as you have. it's the best one i've yet to use.  any off the shelf suggestions that perform better for you?

Spectro 20w50...would be very uncommon to buy at an auto parts store and it costs about $8 a quart

[seanbarney41]

Really though, be sure some oil is in your tank

[Duke McDukiedook]

Spectro has worked great on my bikes since I switched also. My local Cycle Gear stocks it for us old farts. 

[MessnerMoto]

was trying 7100 4T 20W-50 Motul full synthetic for some time.... after hard driving in warm weather and than idling in city traffic pressure will go to 0, oil temp 120C, with all new tight tolerance parts in the engine and fully rebuild oil pump with CNC completely new oil Pump rotors

than I switched to 7100 4T 10W-60 Motul full synthetic what a difference... I can idle in the sun and still have 10psi pressure with oil at 120C and shifting is smooth like silk now... and this oil is priced like other synthetic oils... nothing fancy

... but than again I am perfectionist

[PeWe]

I'm ready for next summer. Have stashed up with some Redline 20W-60, same brand as the good working 20W-50 I use. Synthetic too. Engine has got a pressure gauge since I read about Mirko's similar experience with 120C (248F) temp  oil. I added some thicker oil and saw how the pressure held up much better when warm.

I have to get my thumbs out and assemble my K2 to see how a stock engine will work and how hot the oil will become. It has some Spectro HD mineral 20-50 waiting. Interesting to verify the feel of gearbox when shifting gears, neutral when warm as usual.
 

[Deltarider]

A higher pressure is not a quality. It means oil is thicker and will flow not as fast. That's not what I want @ cold starts where practically all wear takes place. BTW, no need for a pressure gauge. Honda fitted a warning lamp when pressure is too low. That's all you need. A combined acoustic alarm would even be better. You can use that irritating (and often disconnected) turn signal buzzer for that.

[PeWe]

Honda specified 20W-50 for CB750 (10W-40 for lower amb temps). 20W-60 will act similar at a cold start. Mirko use 10W-60 which will be even thinner when cold.
But this is for very warm conditions. Ambient temp plus a modified engine and low pressure verified in a fresh engine.
It is not the oil brand/type with correct additives only, viscosity is probably more important, especially when running very hot.

[70CB750]

Spectro has worked great on my bikes since I switched also. My local Cycle Gear stocks it for us old farts. 

Tried it once, than the only store in the whole metro area that had it - Leesburg - closed for good.   But i really liked how much the shifting improved.

[PeWe]

Spectro has worked great on my bikes since I switched also. My local Cycle Gear stocks it for us old farts. 

Tried it once, than the only store in the whole metro area that had it - Leesburg - closed for good.   But i really liked how much the shifting improved.

Good shifting feeling. That's the way to find a proper oil as I have found too.

[Johnie]

Castrol 4T 20/50. Great shifting and smooth performance. I have used it for years in the 750's.

[RAFster122s]

Problem is that test from 2013 is out of date now... a new S_ std has come into play for auto oils and the repackaging of the T4 may have also signalled a change to formula. I don't know...
I haven't compared the old Shell Rotella 20W50 to something in the T4 20W50 to see if any of the stds changed.
Often when oil API grades change it is to lower sulfur and zinc. Imagine the diesel industry has some of this but not as bad as automotive world...

David

[Tracksnblades1]

Problem is that test from 2013 is out of date now... a new S_ std has come into play for auto oils and the repackaging of the T4 may have also signalled a change to formula. I don't know...
I haven't compared the old Shell Rotella 20W50 to something in the T4 20W50 to see if any of the stds changed.
Often when oil API grades change it is to lower sulfur and zinc. Imagine the diesel industry has some of this but not as bad as automotive world...

David

Gotta read a little further.  As stated in the link, initial testing started in 2013. I believe a little further down he indicates his latest update. Perhaps as late as 10/27/2018 if it hasn't already been updated again.  A quick review of those oils tested show most of the current oils on the shelves today. 😎