Topic: Where do I connect my heated grips?

[juntjoo]

Well now I have automatic cruise control. Which is kinda cool but not safe or possibly bad otherwise. Idk but if anyone knows the exact adjustment for the push cable let me know. Otherwise I'll figure it out soon enough. Hopefully it's an easy one this time lol

[juntjoo]

Too much amps? Well they make them for motorcycles. What do you mean?

Lets say your heated grips draw 3 or 4 amps. That could over load the bikes power wires and key switch contacts leading to heat distress and/or voltage drop. The relay activation coil allows remote low energy switching using the bikes stock wiring system but it carries the high electrical power to the grips through dedicated wiring from the battery. The dedicated wiring is part of the heated grip kit and includes a fuse and its own switching if you don't want ignition key switching. The fuse is to protect the kit wires from overheating in the event of a short. In the picture you can see the fuse, kit wiring and small relay.

Thank you! It's kinda making sense now lol. I guess my grips' fuse is in there somewhere I can't see.

So I did get myself a relay. Four prong, not five. I just guessed. Hopefully this is right. So two are for the dedicated circuit(grips) and the other two to the main circuit that closes the relay(switch) if I'm right.

I'm guessing I'm going back to the tail ligtt cuz it's accessible/convenient. Now am I cutting right into one of these green wires and attaching them to the two terminals for the relay then attaching the red and black grip wires to the dedicated terminals? Will any green do? I see in the diagram they're part of the same circuit, turn signals and brake light.

And what about these crappy butt connectors that always lose grip? Are they supposed to be heated? I tried my little torch lighter on one and didn't seem like it wanted to be heated lol. Think I messed up there. But whenever I try to crimp them really good they break. Not enough and I get what you see in the pic.

Thanks!

[madmtnmotors]

If I need to invest in new tools to make connectors I may do it as I'd probably use it a lot.

You need to invest in the proper tool and connectors:











The double crimp connectors are comparable to the stock OEM connections. The single crimp connectors typically fail eventually even when done carefully. They are not up to the task when subjected to the extra vibration induced stress of motorcycle operation. I won't use the single crimp connectors on any type of motor vehicle, they are failure prone and asking for trouble. I will probably order a set of replacement crimping dies since I fully expect to wear out a set.

[juntjoo]

Ah, okay. Thank you. Someone else(maybe you) suggested these or similar. For now I'll make due but good to know I should upgrade. Not so experienced with the electronics as the dead stuff. I'll be due for an electronics tools update

For now I'll just know I've got these "single crimp" connections back there. Easy to upgrade when need be. And I'm connecting into the circuit here(in pic). That's right in the back of the tail light. Looks easy enough as I have the female counterparts to these blade terminals. And I think I may use the cone/cap connectors instead of the butt ones.

Edit: actually no, it's the brown one that's the hot one, not green. I got it

[juntjoo]

Anyone have any idea why I can get resistance across the relay testing with the ignition but not voltage?

Confirmed grips work connected directly.

Confirmed voltage to the point(brown wore to rear lights) with ignition switch closed

So relay works but not passing current. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

[rotortiller]

Now am I cutting right into one of these green wires and attaching them to the two terminals for the relay

You need to do some research as solid green wires are ground wires on the old Honda. The relay coil needs a switched power wire (positive tail light wire) and a ground. That activates the relay and causes the main contacts to connect. The grips positive will go to the relay main contact after the fuse (the fuse 6mm lug connects to the battery positive terminal) You will have to cut the grip positive wire after the fuse to connect with the main contacts of the relay, basically it inserts inline as one +wire in and + one out.

[madmtnmotors]

Just follow the numbers:

[juntjoo]

Now am I cutting right into one of these green wires and attaching them to the two terminals for the relay

You need to do some research as solid green wires are ground wires on the old Honda. The relay coil needs a switched power wire (positive tail light wire) and a ground. That activates the relay and causes the main contacts to connect. The grips positive will go to the relay main contact after the fuse (the fuse 6mm lug connects to the battery positive terminal) You will have to cut the grip positive wire after the fuse to connect with the main contacts of the relay, basically it inserts inline as one +wire in and + one out.

No I caught and corrected myself with that. Brown wires.

[rotortiller]

[No I caught and corrected myself with that. Brown wires./quote]

Very good, glad you got it sorted.

[juntjoo]

No no, I got it sorted before I ended up stuck.

Verified power, proper relay switch activation, proper operation of grips, but when tied altogether, battery to relay to grips, no power.

I'm using different wire gauges so maybe that has something to do with it. If I repeat the issue again I'll record it.

May try again tonight...

It's not even cold enough to use em yet this year. But last year yes

[juntjoo]

Miraculously it worked. With alligator clips. With my luck once I crimp and heat shrink it all up it won't work.