Topic: Spark Advancer Question.

[SOHCiro]

-Pewe,
Thanks for the input!
If you don't mind, what do you mean by setting the other point while it's idling? Like sticking a feeler gauge between the contact points and loosen the point adjustment screws when the engine is running?

[PeWe]

You set both gap as usual with a feeler gauge.
Then start engine, if it still idles uneven adjust one of the points while idling.
Open it a little bit more to start with. If it does not idle better, close it and hear when it get best idle and tighten the screw.
You will notice that the perfect setting eill change when svrew is tightened. Redo and figure out which way it change and compensate for it before tightening.

I have adjusted this again and again until I was close to be mad. Nice when getting it right.

[Don R]

 As a side note, I believe Hondaman said cut 1/2 of a coil, I did a half coil on one spring and liked the result, springs do lose their tension over time. You rarely can be sure a PO didn't mess around in there either.
 I like using a dwell meter, I feel it's a good check on your gap setting skills.
 Sometimes the theory in our head doesn't match the reality of what we see and we need to just try it but not be afraid to go back. I've learned with my race car what worked in the past might need to be modified because unnoticed factors have changed. Just my philosophy. 

 

[Tracksnblades1]

You set both gap as usual with a feeler gauge.
Then start engine, if it still idles uneven adjust one of the points while idling.
Open it a little bit more to start with. If it does not idle better, close it and hear when it get best idle and tighten the screw.
You will notice that the perfect setting eill change when svrew is tightened. Redo and figure out which way it change and compensate for it before tightening.

I have adjusted this again and again until I was close to be mad. Nice when getting it right.

+1 +2 Don R. PEWE sounds like you may have been an old Chevy guy. Seriously though, have you ever watched the screw tightening changes on the dwell meter...? Increase or decrease....?  My dwell meter is older than I am...😀

[Medyo Bastos]

I don’t think anything is that old


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[scottly]

After testing with timing light, It was too stiff, so I removed one spring and now gets F at 1000rpm, and full advance at around 2200-2700rpm, it's not spot on at 2500, it fluctuates quite a bit but I call it acceptable and runs better!

"Fluctuates quite a bit" does not sound good? You really should be using two springs. Look for 1/4" OD springs wound from a thinner wire; the wire size used on the stock springs would be a good starting point.

[SOHCiro]

-PeWe,
So here's what I struggle to understand. People set points gap first and then adjust timing plate, because changing the gap will affect timing.
You say adjust points while engine is running until it "feels" right, as the final adjustment. 
If I set the timing first, run the engine, and adjust points gap, then the timing is changed again. How should I do it? Thanks!
I know it would be a much easier job if I had access to a dwell meter   I have a hondaman ignition, so it's not like I will have to set gaps every 3-5000 miles.  I just can't commit to buying it for more or less a one time job...

-Scottly,
You're right, it might be that using just one stiff spring is what's causing the fluctuation of spark advance I'll tinker around with it a little more to get it right. Thanks!

-Don R,
I did cut 1/2 coil off both springs, maybe I should've cut just one first for testing!

[Deltarider]

SOCHiro, it is essential breakerpoint gaps are adjusted before setting the ignition timing. Changing the gap afterwards will change the timing again. It's true back then the mechanics at Honda dealers set the timing by simply adjusting the breakerpoint gap, as practically all off timing originates due to wear at the breakerpoints. Today everybody has his hands on the plates and then you must do the full routine ofcourse. The breakerpoints gap measured in ten^ths of mm can also be expressed in degrees crank rotation the breakerpoint remains closed. For that a dwellmeter can be used. It's a pity we still measure in degrees. IMO doing it in % duty cycle is easier to understand for many of us and will lead to less mistakes as one doesn't have to select the number of cylinders. If you want to buy a dwellmeter or not, is your choice, but I usually advice: when you need a (new) multimeter anyway, then choose an automotive type. Back then they were a fortune, today they're real cheap.
Need more info? Go here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,163916.msg1889800.html#msg1889800

[PeWe]

Yes, adjust ignition again  if you have adjusted the points. This is about making the engine to run as smooth as possible

If you have not made sure that point plate will not sit tight in case embosses you need to check points gap again after you have adjusted ign 1:4 by turning the plate or just loosened the 3 screws holding it, especially 2:3 point gap will change. Did on my until I made sure that the plate sit tight.  This is visible when you use a dwell meter.