exactly, your numbers look spot on so i wouldn't worry about it. it's normal to have slight variation to the published numbers. there's manufacturing tolerances, measuring tolerances... as you're within 1 or 2 degrees, you're pretty good! which is actually astounding considering that you directly use the stock sprocket holes. i guess those yoshi guys knew what they were doing!
personally, i use running lash to degree the cam. 0 lash is a bit theoretical as you won't use that anyway, and you want the timing to be right in real-life use, not under lab conditions.
i lived in gothenbug for a bit over a year during my studies. nice place! the cops are probably still searching for me but that's another story...
jag pratar bara lite svenska. var vinns det öl??
ignition discussions are a bit like oil threads. i think it's best to first look at the few basic types and when you've decided on one, look within that category for what's on offer.
- fully mechanical: stock stetup for our bikes, with points etc.
- hondaman: in its own category, being a transistorised version that otherwise leaves the stock items in place
- electronic with mechanical advance unit: stock advancer, and electronic spark timing
- fully electronic: advance is also electronically controlled. there are different varieties, some with a fixed advance curve, some where you can select it. some where you can choose the rev limit, some where you can't. most are magnetically triggered, there is also one that's optically triggered.
there are pros and cons to everythings. search this forum for info, or start a separate thread to get advice and opinions.
i myself went for a boyer bransden which is fully electronic with a CDI box. advance curve is pre-set and rev limit can only be set by the manufacturer. so pretty no frills but has been working flawlessly so far.
about the amount of advance, you might want to ask in the hi po part of the forum. guys there can probably point you in the right direction.
