Author Topic: Cb500 Street "Race" bike refresh (Read 13052 times)

przjohn · « **Reply #50 on:** February 17, 2019, 04:01:26 PM »

Looking Great

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #51 on:** February 18, 2019, 11:51:58 AM »

Another option:

Motolanna seat (looks like this):

image_zpsdfilcfz7 by Donald Leonhardt, on Flickr

image_zpswugl5a7e by Donald Leonhardt, on Flickr

CognitoMoto_10_zps08cafwoo by Donald Leonhardt, on Flickr

Korven · « **Reply #52 on:** February 19, 2019, 06:31:35 AM »

Would one have to do seatloops or such to get away with a seat like this? Seems slightly upswept. Does a seat like this take two asses if really needed?

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #53 on:** February 19, 2019, 08:38:43 AM »

Quote from: Korven on February 19, 2019, 06:31:35 AM

Would one have to do seatloops or such to get away with a seat like this? Seems slightly upswept. Does a seat like this take two asses if really needed?

If you look at the 500 and 550 frames, the rails are not completely flat but have a slight curve. This seat follows the curve. It bolts either to the frame or you can weld it fixture points on the frame. A passenger can sit on the speed hump, if utterly necessary, but I would not recommend it on ANY speed hump seat.

Korven · « **Reply #54 on:** February 19, 2019, 01:03:22 PM »

Quote from: SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan on February 19, 2019, 08:38:43 AM

Quote from: Korven on February 19, 2019, 06:31:35 AM
Would one have to do seatloops or such to get away with a seat like this? Seems slightly upswept. Does a seat like this take two asses if really needed?

If you look at the 500 and 550 frames, the rails are not completely flat but have a slight curve. This seat follows the curve. It bolts either to the frame or you can weld it fixture points on the frame. A passenger can sit on the speed hump, if utterly necessary, but I would not recommend it on ANY speed hump seat.

I will look closer at this, the seat just seamed to promote more than that, maybe its the lines fooling. Yeah i guessed that.

On a other note. What are the two Clamps that are on the valve cover for? I routed the Clutch cable thru there at first but it gives a weird angle. i was told that they might be for the 1 and 4 ignition coil cables? anyone have a pic of this

Korven · « **Reply #55 on:** February 21, 2019, 11:43:56 AM »

Korven · « **Reply #56 on:** February 23, 2019, 02:09:44 PM »

Some progress. Tappets adjusted. oil in. ignition timed at stock. All electrics seem to work. Time to move this thing off the bench. gonna give it a few kicks see if that oil light go out. Need to hook up some aux fuel/fuel tank and we are pretty much ready to start. Im just gonna start it and let it idle at a bit higher idle for better oil flow for a min then shut it down. Need to wait until late april until all salt and gravel are washed away from the roads before i bring this beauty out for fresh air and engine break in. Gonna do some comptest just for fun. compression before was around 165-170psi on cold motor. I think i read that a (good working) stock motor has around that when hot. wonder how low its gonna be now before the piston rings wear in? Was afraid that the exhaust would look weird or too glossy but i like the results. lets see if the powdercoat holds up.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #57 on:** February 23, 2019, 02:15:07 PM »

I think that seat looks great. What can you tell us about that sticker on the side cover?

flatlander · « **Reply #58 on:** February 23, 2019, 02:18:27 PM »

Quote from: Korven on February 19, 2019, 01:03:22 PM

On a other note. What are the two Clamps that are on the valve cover for? I routed the Clutch cable thru there at first but it gives a weird angle. i was told that they might be for the 1 and 4 ignition coil cables? anyone have a pic of this

not for the clutch cable. it's indeed for the ignition cables that go to the no. 1 and 4 plugs.
there is a picture in the manual on partslist, you can just route them loosely behind that clip so that they curve forward towards the plug with its cap angled back.

Korven · « **Reply #59 on:** February 23, 2019, 02:26:17 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on February 23, 2019, 02:15:07 PM

I think that seat looks great. What can you tell us about that sticker on the side cover?

Its a local motor club with roots in the 50's. They announce that they are a wide motor club. They sseem to have touring tuesdays, might be something for me. Seem sad to remove the sticker from the bike, i rather preserve some of the bikes history. i did join the swedish classic honda club last month but more is more. Previous owner use to do enduro racing with some 2-stroke in the 80's there. Im gonna visit him with the bike this spring and ask him more about it. Have invited him to the garage but he is pretty reserved, guesss it has to do with his strokes. I do talk on the phone from time to time. He has his old leather suit and yoshimura catalog waiting for me.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #60 on:** February 23, 2019, 02:50:25 PM »

That is awesome! Old bikes are enjoyed more deeply when they become a part of history.

Rocketman · « **Reply #61 on:** February 23, 2019, 05:52:28 PM »

Like what you are doing. Very classy! I am curious, did you install the starter motor or block off the opening? Would not want you to have the same experience I did when the block off plug fell out.

Quote

I had crashed in my own oil. Thankfully no one else went down. I had depended on the O-ring to retain the plug. What a bone headed mistake on my part. The plug is now retained by a set screw.

SF · « **Reply #62 on:** February 24, 2019, 05:58:00 AM »

Yes very classy. I wish I knew the history on mine. Your very lucky.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Korven · « **Reply #63 on:** February 25, 2019, 12:14:46 AM »

Quote from: Rocketman on February 23, 2019, 05:52:28 PM

Like what you are doing. Very classy! I am curious, did you install the starter motor or block off the opening? Would not want you to have the same experience I did when the block off plug fell out.

Quote
I had crashed in my own oil. Thankfully no one else went down. I had depended on the O-ring to retain the plug. What a bone headed mistake on my part. The plug is now retained by a set screw.

I installed the starter for convince and for testing out if the old man is right or not. According to him the starter isn't strong enough to start the engine with the cam and pistons. I'll see how it works for me, it pulled the engine fine now with standard ignition and it didn't like it was having a hard time. Its not a performance machine, but that starter is heavy. It is in plan for my part 2 of this to manufacture a plug and a bracket holding it, not sure if I will use it. More a fun thing to practice at working on a lathe.

Things that come later on after finished restoring and riding a season. Bike came with 3 new 530 chains, seems like a waste to not use them but could always use them on my original 500 (that will be next year's project)

-520 chain with aluminium sprocket.
-starter eliminator
-lithium battery.
-dynamic ignition (the cheaper European version)

Korven · « **Reply #64 on:** February 27, 2019, 12:09:46 AM »

So Fairing is coming along nicely. Removed all the rubber parts and I'm sourcing new ones Atm. The black rubber side protectors are new. They old ones were greyish. As there were some earlier intrest to the stickers I provide the one fitted on the rear fender. It says the savanna's wild dogs. It's like a race oriented bracket within the club that were doing roadracing in the 70s(the earlier sticker) Looks like I have alot of questions for the old man when I get there.

flatlander · « **Reply #65 on:** February 27, 2019, 03:52:18 AM »

this looked promising already, and is starting to get really cool. keep it coming

Korven · « **Reply #66 on:** February 27, 2019, 11:17:13 AM »

We are in business! Keeping the revs at 2000-2200 to get some better oil pressure. I have run it on the starter before to get the oil up proper. took some comp readings. all 150psi except slightly lower on 3rd at 145-147ish so readings are low but even. At the end im adjusting up the choke and that kills it. smoke is from small bits of painting tape i used to hold the copper washers from falling out when mounting the exhaust. hope that burns away. oh yeah and that brake light needs adjusting. And yeah the hose hanging infront of my bike is for moments like this hehe.

Reved it up towards 4000 at one point but I got some weird metallic meshing sounds. You know the sound when a gear is failing to mesh properly or shifting without pulling the clutch in properly. I shut it down and started it again and it sounded fine. Not sure if its a one time thing or something I should worry about. Maybe I had the gear into a semi neutral state. Could I get motordamage by running a too low ignition? I set it at 28 degrees standard Atm.

Korven · « **Reply #67 on:** March 06, 2019, 10:07:06 AM »

Wonder if i should try to remove this yellow paint that the previous owner didnt see to care about. it kinda looks like kind of vinyl. I Did Electroplating on all the screws for the fairing, seemed kinda nice to uses the real ones. Forgot pictures tho.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #68 on:** March 06, 2019, 04:17:50 PM »

I'd remove it if you can without damaging the vinyl.

Korven · « **Reply #69 on:** March 07, 2019, 09:37:26 AM »

It wont get my much better than this. the vinyl is now a bit more smooth at this place but also less yellow. Stainless Bolt become pretty nice if you put them into the lathe, pretty good imitation of chrome screws imo. I was removing some glue and stuff on the edges of the windscreen with a slighly rough sponge, after i was done it was all milky white and filled with micro scratches. used some polish on it and it became alright, not perfect. only spent 10minutes or so on it guess ill need to put in some more time in it.

Korven · « **Reply #70 on:** March 08, 2019, 01:25:36 PM »

Update. Some more stuff added on! Its so fast to mount when you prepared everything down to the last screw. in the previous video the bike wasnt running on 1st cylinder (i think) it was due to a fouled plug. having some issues now with the oil lights. Takes quite a few cranks to put the light out. (5sec) The light comes on after less than 1 sec. Running the engine at 2000 rpm the light comes on after 15-20s. Oil filled slighly above the max mark. Gonna put a pressure gauge on it just to check what values i have tomorrow. what values is normal? Oil pump clearances were great, far from worn out. oilpump primed before assembly. It seemed to suck oil pretty good when i tested it out on the bench turning it. well some videos at the far end (sorry no sound)

Running starter motor to turn the oil lamp off, takes about 5s, you see when the lamp dims out.

Running a steady 2000 rpm then oil light pops on

ChromeDreams · « **Reply #71 on:** March 08, 2019, 08:51:09 PM »

looks great! love the effect from the black fairing section sweeping up and around the headlight, very sharp.

sorry if I missed it, any details on the finned/branded points cover? wish I had one of them...

Korven · « **Reply #72 on:** March 09, 2019, 03:55:34 PM »

Turns out i had a bad oil pressure gauge on. I put on a indicator clock and it showed around 65psi or so with the pressure not dropping. I had a older spare oil gauge that i put on. Time to focus on the mirror and the front turn signals, i driving without mirrors. only did it once, not sure if i would get used to that paranoia feeling.

Quote from: ChromeDreams on March 08, 2019, 08:51:09 PM

looks great! love the effect from the black fairing section sweeping up and around the headlight, very sharp.

sorry if I missed it, any details on the finned/branded points cover? wish I had one of them...

The points cover is made by a company called ISR. The make competive braking components. when they started out early 70's they made random custom pieces just like this point cover to fund development. I've heard them mentioned a few times, maybe the boys with more years in the game knows more?
http://www.isrbrakes.se/

Korven · « **Reply #73 on:** March 10, 2019, 12:04:32 PM »

Out shopping today. Got a nice looking oem tank for 200 euros, seems like a catch. 100 for a nice cylinder and valve cover. for my last 100 i had on me i got 1 oem oil gauge and 1 after market one. 1 clutch mecanism, the slider part, middle shift fork, 2 bearings for the primary and 44 crank bearings, mostly the green ones.

The Rear tank is the one i bought and the one that is on is a repainted one, its slighly too yellow and too little gold.

Now for the question. Should i come back with more money and try to buy the rest of the stuff. The gearbox is used but had almost every gear new in package. would i ever need one of these? I mean gears are around 100euro each but then again one could source an used gearbox for about the same i figure.

Oilstick, oilgallery plug. primary gear with rdampers. 4x needle bearings, guessin for the gearbox. 3 nice standard camshafts. (might be some F models, since they bearings said cb500F) are they diffrent from the K? what is a fair price for a Camshaft?

Korven · « **Reply #74 on:** March 11, 2019, 07:58:42 AM »

So after the initial startup i noticed it wasnt running on all cylinders, guess this is because of fouling the sparkplugs when running it on the starter to make sure oil and oil pressure was getting everywhere before starting. Since i didnt have any new plugs i borrowed a few Dr7es plugs from the other bike just to get it running. From the explanation the Dr8es that are currently in now are a hotter plug with longer insulation, is it wise to run these? My guess is that the bike will run hotter with the cam since you would want to rev it more to benift from it more. Im about to order a box of dr7es for my originals, should i get a another box of 7s or get the 8s for this bike? Is there any downside to running a "too" hot plug?

Now not to sound like a total cheapo but when new plug foul, can you clean them? Seems like a waste to throw out plugs that havent seen any milage on them. but seems hard to reach all in the bottom of the procelin body with a brush. From my understanding, the engine selfcleans the plugs once it reaches the optimal temp. could one heat em with a torch to simulate the same effect?

Now it sounds better but i might have to make some kind of end plug for smoother evening rides when one would not want to wake the whole neighborhood up. It is essentially an open pipe. thinking of just making a round alu piece and drilling some holes out so to break up the sound just a little.

Bike seems to run fine with the standard ingnition timing, i cant myself hear any weird noises, just the normal clattering from the clutch when at low idle.
And about all that about the starter not being able to pull the cam round was just BS, might have been a bad battery or some failing connection causing voltage drops.

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Author Topic: Cb500 Street "Race" bike refresh (Read 13052 times)