Topic: tightening torque for front fork

[_mark]

Hi guys.
I'm rebuilding the front of my K1 but I don't find in the manual the tightening torque of the front fork bolts, the two highlighted bolts. I know that if i tight too much they can brake.
Anyone that can help me ? thanks and Regards.

[540nova]

It's when the D washer in the middle  is omitted that it's susceptible to cracking. Yours is in place, just use common sense when tightening.

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[dave500]

I can help with grammar and spelling,but I cant find in the manual,if I tighten too much they can break.

[540nova]

I can help with grammar and spelling,but I cant find in the manual,if I tighten too much they can break.

They don't break,  they brake. That's what he said.

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[trigger]

The bottom M10 bolts are 22 ft-lb and the top are just pinch bolts so, pinch. Honda recommend the top ones at 6.5 to 9.4 ft-lb but, i would take the lower value if torquing them   

[_mark]

It's when the D washer in the middle  is omitted that it's susceptible to cracking. Yours is in place, just use common sense when tightening.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thanks a lot. What about of the main bolts (they are highlighted with small green circle); these ones seem to be more tightenable isn't it? Thanks And Regards.

[_mark]

The bottom M10 bolts are 22 ft-lb and the top are just pinch bolts so, pinch. Honda recommend the top ones at 6.5 to 9.4 ft-lb but, i would take the lower value if torquing them   

Thanks a lot. Just for curiosity, where you took these infos? Regards.

[dave500]

too much is read into this torqueing of bolts!just tighten em up,some cant sleep at night otherwise?just never torque any 6mm threads,youll strip em out every time,just feel em down they aint wheel nuts.

[trigger]

That is for the bolts in the green circle  M10 is the bottom one 
Or as Dave says, "Turn until they snap, then half a turn back" 

[_mark]

too much is read into this torqueing of bolts!just tighten em up,some cant sleep at night otherwise?just never torque any 6mm threads,youll strip em out every time,just feel em down they aint wheel nuts.

i mean to brake alluminium brakets. Some people did it... if there is not any tightening torque, well give me a procedure to do it correctly. I don t want to replace alluminum support and that forks slip while i m running neither

[540nova]

too much is read into this torqueing of bolts!just tighten em up,some cant sleep at night otherwise?just never torque any 6mm threads,youll strip em out every time,just feel em down they aint wheel nuts.

i mean to brake alluminium brakets. Some people did it... if there is not any tightening torque, well give me a procedure to do it correctly. I don t want to replace alluminum support and that forks slip while i m running neither

Honestly,  it's all a matter of feel and experience. I repair airplanes for a living.  Practically every fastener on a commercial aircraft has a torque spec, but rarely is a torque wrench used. After you strip a few bolts, more likely their mating surfaces,  you learn when enough is enough.

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[540nova]

That is for the bolts in the green circle  M10 is the bottom one 
Or as Dave says, "Turn until they snap, then half a turn back" 

That's the old joke,  but it's pretty true.

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[trigger]

That is for the bolts in the green circle  M10 is the bottom one 
Or as Dave says, "Turn until they snap, then half a turn back" 

That's the old joke,  but it's pretty true.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

The old jokes are the best for us old git's 

[Deltarider]

My uncle, a mechanic, used to say: "stop right before it snaps."

[bryanj]

Put a 3/8 nut in the crook of your elbow and when it flies out it is tight enough!

[Tracksnblades1]

My uncle, a mechanic, used to say: "stop right before it snaps."

My uncle, too, used to say: " stop a 1/4 turn before it twists off" 😀
A little different verb usage across the pond.

Health and prosperity in 2019 to all.

[dave500]

for the 100 millionth time,dont torque any 6mm threads,just feel them down,i cant believe the amount of belief in the wrong fact that any and all bolts /nuts must be torqued?

[AwesomeCB]

It's when the D washer in the middle  is omitted that it's susceptible to cracking. Yours is in place, just use common sense when tightening.

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I don't have those washers on my K6 and they're not on the parts fiche. I know enough not to over torque that bolt, but this makes me think it might be a good idea to put them in any way.

[PeWe]

CB750 K3-K6 bridge does not need those washers.
Earlier must have them to avoid crack when tighten a little bit too much due to its weaker design.
Yamiya sell new that look the same but is claimed to be stronger.

[Deltarider]

Now we're on it, what's the best way (working order) to mount and fasten the legs to avoid even the slightest stiction?

[bryanj]

For me, bolt up mudguard first tight then hand nip top bolts to get length correct, fully tighten bottom tree bolts, fit wheel and work suspension the finally tighten top pinch bolts.

Most people make the mistake of forgetting to loosen the top pinch bolts when adjusting the head races

[PeWe]

.......
Most people make the mistake of forgetting to loosen the top pinch bolts when adjusting the head races

+1
Good point to remember.
I have recently mounted the fork with new roller bearings that need to be tightened again. Races might move a little.
If I see tubes ends coming up over the top bridge, I'll loosen the bottom tree bolts. I like to have the tubes aligned at top.

[Deltarider]

I suspect a minor stiction on mine. When I loosen the axleholder nuts, mudguard fasteners, bottom tree nuts and top tree nuts somewhat and then pump up and down a few times, what then would be the appropiate order to fasten things in order to avoid stiction?
The Haynes Manual suggests from the bottom up, so:
1. axle holder nuts
2. mudguard fasteners
3. bottom tree nuts
4. top tree nuts.
Is this right or should I start with the mudguard fasteners?

[MauiK3]

Oh boy, a fastener discussion, to use a torque wrench or not.
Many mechanics feel they have a calibrated arm for torquing fasteners.
They don’t
6mm bolts? They respond to a properly set wrench like any other fastener and if it’s properly set they won’t strip out.
I think 6mm into aluminum is about 70 inch pounds more or less. Some charts and manuals ask for more but I am careful with them.
I have the D washers on my K3 750, built 11/72. I use them and I torque them per the manual

[craz1]

Im with MauiK3 when it comes to torque wrenches. I use a Torque wrench for the majority of bolts. My value for 6mm is normally 84 inch pounds however the Z1 cam cover bolts call for 104 inch pounds and I have never stripped a bolt. if you don't see a spec listed than take the lower recommended for that size and determine if its an oiled thread or dry. Most will be dry. If your stripping 6mm bolts then I would get your wrench calibrated or buy a new one.