Topic: Rotor and brake pads on cars - both need changing?

[Prospect]

I took my car to a mechanic because my car needed new brakes.  All the mechanics around here don't machine the rotors anymore and insist that both the rotors and pads be changed at the same time.  After 60,000 kms (about 37,000 miles) I don't think you need to change both but apparently if they are not changed at the same time they squeal.  To change the rotors is at least $350 extra for two rotors.  What do you guys think? Required or not?

[danyo]

Easy money for mechanics. Pads are out anyway so two more bolts and rotor is ready to be swapped. If they will install Chinese rotors you will need to change them once again soon. If not warped (you should not feel vibration on steering wheel when brakes applied), I would change only pads and leave OEM rotors as long as possible. If you really need rotors after 37000 miles consider quality aftermarket. Should be around 100 - 150$ for pair and will last much longer. I'm also against ceramic pads. I'm doing my maintenance myself so prefer change pads more often but not put additional wear on rotors (harder ceramics). I have around 75000 miles on my current rotors (daily driver Centric).

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[bill440cars]

      Also, I don't think I saw it mentioned, but at Walmart, in the section by the air compressors, you can get
     set of resurfacing discs, that come with a short shaft. The shaft is put in you drill, then attach a disc to   
     the shaft & use the setup, to "deglaze" the brake rotors. You can get these, for sure, at Walmart & I 
    believe  you can also get them at Harbor Freight. Maybe some folks don't do this, but I like to make sure
    the rotor are clean & don't have any glazing to them.       

[333]

I have never had a problem with not replacing discs on a brake job. And I don't know where you live, or what car you drive, but I get discs for my Chevy's for about $25 to $30 each from Rock Auto.

At 60, I won't change my own oil because it's a PIA, when I can pay someone else $40 and let them deal with the mess. But a brake job is easy, and I save big bucks doing it myself.  I think the last quote I got to do the front was about $300, and I did it for less than $80.

[dave500]

just put new pads on it.

[WhyNot2]

Pep Boys just charged my son 458 bux to do a brake job on a 15 malibu

Rotors and pads. He's in florida and i'm too far away, otherwise I"d had done it myself.

[jlh3rd]

i only change rotors when i detect or feel something going on when driving my vehicles or apply the brakes. Or, when i can see visible signs on the rotor that tell me the rotor is scored , overheated or warped. Other than that , i've had rotors that lasted a long time. One other thing, these repair places love to wrench lug nuts well past the recommended torque setting. I've seen 300/400 lbs/ft when 90/100 is a proper setting. That'll help warp rotors way early.

[MikeSimon]

You change pads, rotors may not have to be changed unless they are scored. You change rotors, you should change pads.
As for as DIY is concerned, that will be OK, if you have a car that will allow you to do it. I have two cars with electric parking brakes and even changing the rear pads, you need a special tool to reset the parking brake. Not a job for the regular DIYer.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Just check the rotor thickness with a micrometer and if they are close or out of spec like others have said do it yourself and save a few hundies.
Change your brake pads if they are close to the wear line.
Rocket science this ain't.

[Prospect]

Thanks for the replies.  I've done brake jobs on my cars many times but as the weather gets cold and I have a bit more money and less time I find I rather pay someone to do it. Next time I'll insist on the pads only and see how it goes. 

[Mr.Mazza]

A lot of modern cars brake disks are made from soft metals, as are the brake pads themselves.
This is popular on Euro spec cars and it means a braking system needs to apply much less pressure for equal braking. Downside is lifespan of pads/disks.

So because of this many cars will wear disks so quickly they have huge lips on them, and by the time you machine the disk smooth again you will run into the min thickness before the next pad change ergo not safe for a mechanic to do.

Was not uncommon for BMWs,VW,Merc ect to need pads and disks at 40k kms or 60k kms.

The issue with changing into a aftermarket harder disks if your brakes will be very noisy and be horrible.

Most major euro car brands get supplied by ATE brakes, you can buy them from Auto supplie chains and its cheaper than Genuine but the same product.

Source: Qualified light vehicle tech in Australia.

[flybox1]

Parts are cheap.  You're mostly paying for labor.  Its a job that can be done at home with on-hand tools.
Just did all four (pads and rotors) on the wifes 2012 Dodge GC.  $200 and 3 hours.

[Tracksnblades1]

Pro,
You could just measure them for thickness and runout. Then compare those measurements to the service limit measurement.

Prosperity in 2019

[Bankerdanny]

I have new rotors for my SUV that I will install Sunday along with new pads all 4 wheels should take less than 90 minutes. It is one of the easiest jobs for a home mechanic to do and usually requires only the most basic of tools. If you are US based you can borrow the couple of specialty tools you might need from any of the large chains like AutoZone and O'Reilly. Check YouTube, I bet there is a video there on how to do your specific car.

I've been dong my own work for 30+ years now. I rarely replace the rotors, but as others have said, it depends on condition. If the rotors have obvious deep grooves in them, then I would replace them. Years ago I would take my rotors to the local parts shop where they would turn them down. It is getting harder to find shops that do that these days and at $15-$25 per rotor for the service, brand new replacements are often only $10 or so more than turning the old ones. Plus, modern rotors are less robust than they used to be and are more prone to warping after they have been turned down.

If you aren't comfortable ordering from EBay or Amazon I am a fan of the AutoZone house brand, Duralast. I have purchased many parts from them over the years for many cars including my MGB with very good results. They are often backed with a lifetime warranty too. The last time I did the front pads they were free because I was replacing the Duralast pads I had previously used.

[Stev-o]

just put new pads on it.

+1....unless the rotors are warped [and pulsate when used hard]

[Bankerdanny]

just put new pads on it.

+1....unless the rotors are warped [and pulsate when used hard]

That's why I am doing the rotors on mine and not just the pads, I have started to get a pulse. I am doing the back also because rotors are cheap and the rear pads need changing anyway (based on an inspection I did when I replaced a rear wheel bearing assembly 2 weeks ago). Since I need to replace the front rotors I am doing the back as well so I have fresh pads and rotors all around.

[Stev-o]

just put new pads on it.

+1....unless the rotors are warped [and pulsate when used hard]

That's why I am doing the rotors on mine and not just the pads, I have started to get a pulse. I am doing the back also because rotors are cheap and the rear pads need changing anyway (based on an inspection I did when I replaced a rear wheel bearing assembly 2 weeks ago) and I need to replace the front rotors I am doing the back as well so I have fresh pads and rotors all around.

Sounds like a good plan, Danny.   We live in a disposable world now...

BTW - For my Tacoma, I buy Autozone Duralast pads with a lifetime warranty.  They wear down and I take 'em in and get a new set no questions asked...

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/duralast-gold-brake-pads/887767_317099_3773