Topic: How to remove stuck oil jets in heads?

[Ace]

Hi All,

I've got a busted up late model head and I know the oil jets that feed the cam towers are getting harder to find with a price to match. The head has been out of an engine for 20 plus years and the oil jet is stuck in there, yes it is removable unlike early K0-K1. Anyone know how to get them out without damaging it or the head (I know the head is junk, this may help others).

Done a search as well on the topic - oil jet, stuck oil jet.

Thanks.

[flybox1]

dont, just spray them thru...

[ekpent]

 Are you scrapping out the head and just want to salvage the jets ?

[macvit7906]

do the oil jets look like this?

[Ace]

Are you scrapping out the head and just want to salvage the jets ?

Scrapping this particular head. I have others that are the same.

[Ace]

do the oil jets look like this?

No, they are removable as one has been removed.

[754]

 Do you have the o ring out ? After that they like to fall out. Try gently pulling with needle nose pliers.

[pjlogue]

You could try blowing it out with an air hose from the back side.  Make sure to cover it with a shop rag so you catch it and it doesn't get lost.

-P.

[Ace]

Tried those methods, oil ring out still in there.

I suspect there is some oxidation or some crud that's been there for a long time that is the cause of the issue.

I has been soaked in a hot bath, high pressure blasted and the jet hasn't moved.

[ekpent]

 Don't forget to throw some heat at it as well around the jet area along with some penetrating oil.

[Don R]

 I could carry it to my machine shop, they always seem to fall out along the way when I do that. 50% get lost though.

[754]

If you can get a small drill chuck on it,  it will grip pretty good with no damage..

[Ace]

I could carry it to my machine shop, they always seem to fall out along the way when I do that. 50% get lost though.

Haha nice one 

[Ace]

If you can get a small drill chuck on it,  it will grip pretty good with no damage..

And that's why I post on forums. I never would have thought of that idea.

Either way, when I do get the little bugger out, I'll post how I did it. Thanks for the ideas/assistance guys.

[disco]

Have you tried pressuring it from below? Grease gun or air? As someone said before, cover with shop rag, unless you enjoy scavenger hunts!

[2wheels]

Can you post a picture of the oil jet?
If it is a pressed in item you could try heating the entire head.  30 minutes in the propane barbaque should be long enough. Full heat.
Then bring the head out and use "quick freeze" or air duster to freeze the oil jet.  The caned air you can buy a walmart to clean your keyboard.  Hold the can upside down and the mist that comes out is close to -40 degrees.
Maybe you can even use the freeze mist to help blow the part out.  But since i don't know what it looks like I am just guessing.

[754]

 Look Up... wayyyyy Up..

The Friendly Giant..

[Ace]

Here is pic of the oil jet in the head.

I just put some penetrene around the jet, I don't have a drill chuck small enough to fit in and around the jet.

I'll probably resort to heat if I get the spare time over the weekend.

[2wheels]

I wonder if the chuck on a dremmel tool would fit?

[PeWe]

Possible to get new if this one will be removed by brutal force
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-CB-750-Four-K6-Oldusen-Zylinderkopf-Nockenwelle-Orifice-Oil-Control-Jet/162789214590?hash=item25e6fe497e:g:fm0AAOSwZQRYhm~V:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true

[Ace]

Well I couldn't get the jet out of the junk head. Heating with propane torch didn't work. Maybe if I had acetylene torch. So end up cutting around it to get it out.

On another head, I dosed it with penetrene and a week later noticed it has disappeared from around the jet. Got a small pair of pointy nose pliers and managed to pull it out. Took a bit of force but it worked and all good. I couldn't twist it, just pulled straight out. It was covered in gunk so glad I got it out to clean it up.

My take on getting stuck oil jets out would be to use penetrene, if the penetrene is still sitting there ie. hasn't leaked through the jet (blocked jet) and surroundings as it will pool after a week then add head such as the oxygen acetylene torch or equivalent to try and get the oil jet out. There maybe other methods such as mentioned above, be patient and good luck with the little buggers.

[MRieck]

Davis Silver Spares now sells aftermarket oil jets

[PeWe]

Yamiya sells the older type, new simplified.  It must take some time to make them.
http://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=246_21_249_51&products_id=3849

I have an old head where this older model must be removed and cleaned up. I prefer easy to take out for next time cam towers are removed to ensure clean oil path.

[PeWe]

I have removed mine. Really easy and a quick job if you know the trick
Hydraulic...
A friend of mine told me how to do yesterday when I was talking about this
He is an old CB750 mechanic since his dragracing days in the 70-80's. Restore other bikes too.

The oil flow thru the 2 oil feed holes that also house 2 cylinder studs.
1. Thread the stud hole on top. I used M10 that can be used direct in existing hole.
2. Plug that stud hole with an M10 bolt
3. Flip head and place it on a container that cover the orifice.
4. Fill stud hole with oil. I used Motul 20w-50. I'm sure any oil will due, even synthetic! 
5. Place a 9mm drill in that hole, bottom first, and whack it down with a heavy plastic hammer.
6. Plop!! The orifice is now in the container
7. Drill was stucked in head for me so flip head and remove bolt, use a thinner pin and tap drill out.
8. Clean orifices and make sure the oil holes inside where the orifices sits are clean.

I'll grind my orifices outside a little with grit 800-1000 to make sure they can be removed easier from top next time.  When cam and towers are removed, perfect reason to clean the oil path with oil filter removed and flush oil passages clean with degreaser. I do no longer trust oil filter that might let particles thru or it can disintegrate it self.

[754]

Geez 89.66 each from Yamiya..
 I could build onesies for way less, most people could..

Your head may have been repairable, if it was, it sure is not now... that you cut the jet out..

[01Thomas]

Great Idea and thanks for sharing, Per!

I have removed mine. Really easy and a quick job if you know the trick
Hydraulic...
A friend of mine told me how to do yesterday when I was talking about this
He is an old CB750 mechanic since his dragracing days in the 70-80's. Restore other bikes too.

The oil flow thru the 2 oil feed holes that also house 2 cylinder studs.
1. Thread the stud hole on top. I used M10 that can be used direct in existing hole.
2. Plug that stud hole with an M10 bolt
3. Flip head and place it on a container that cover the orifice.
4. Fill stud hole with oil. I used Motul 20w-50. I'm sure any oil will due, even synthetic! 
5. Place a 9mm drill in that hole, bottom first, and whack it down with a heavy plastic hammer.
6. Plop!! The orifice is now in the container
7. Drill was stucked in head for me so flip head and remove bolt, use a thinner pin and tap drill out.
8. Clean orifices and make sure the oil holes inside where the orifices sits are clean.

I'll grind my orifices outside a little with grit 800-1000 to make sure they can be removed easier from top next time.  When cam and towers are removed, perfect reason to clean the oil path with oil filter removed and flush oil passages clean with degreaser. I do no longer trust oil filter that might let particles thru or it can disintegrate it self.

[754]

Rather than tap it , run a though bolt 2 sealing washers and a nut,
For the 9mm shaft, turn a piece on the lathe if you got one.. hard on drill bit and hammer to pound hard on it.

[PeWe]

The bottom end of a 9mm drill fit perfect in hole and work as a piston pressing the oil further. I did not need to use much force, only one distinct stroke by the heavy nylon hammer. Drill had a little bit too god fit a 2" in or so.

The M10 bolt was only tightened by fingers. I found M10 x 1.25 tap (fine thread) in my tap box. I did not find a short matching bolt so I used M10 std bolt, M10 x 1.5, tightened it lightly by finger force.

Really important to clean head afterwards. My head will be refurbished so it will need a clean anyway.

This is a good example of using std tools without heavy shop machinery. The M10 tap, the only thing everyone might not have on the shelf.
Maybe possible to plug the hole with a rubber cone that is pressed against the surface, under the oil orifice a hole where it can pop out.

[Ace]

Now you come out with this method after I needed it PeWe. Good one for next time.

I have removed mine. Really easy and a quick job if you know the trick
Hydraulic...
A friend of mine told me how to do yesterday when I was talking about this
He is an old CB750 mechanic since his dragracing days in the 70-80's. Restore other bikes too.

The oil flow thru the 2 oil feed holes that also house 2 cylinder studs.
1. Thread the stud hole on top. I used M10 that can be used direct in existing hole.
2. Plug that stud hole with an M10 bolt
3. Flip head and place it on a container that cover the orifice.
4. Fill stud hole with oil. I used Motul 20w-50. I'm sure any oil will due, even synthetic! 
5. Place a 9mm drill in that hole, bottom first, and whack it down with a heavy plastic hammer.
6. Plop!! The orifice is now in the container
7. Drill was stucked in head for me so flip head and remove bolt, use a thinner pin and tap drill out.
8. Clean orifices and make sure the oil holes inside where the orifices sits are clean.

I'll grind my orifices outside a little with grit 800-1000 to make sure they can be removed easier from top next time.  When cam and towers are removed, perfect reason to clean the oil path with oil filter removed and flush oil passages clean with degreaser. I do no longer trust oil filter that might let particles thru or it can disintegrate it self.

[Ace]

754 the head was beyond repair before I cut the jet out, that's why it was my test head.

Geez 89.66 each from Yamiya..
 I could build onesies for way less, most people could..

Your head may have been repairable, if it was, it sure is not now... that you cut the jet out..

[PeWe]

Ace, this is news for me too
Best working mechanical hint I have ever got.
Find a head and try

[Kook652]

I have removed mine. Really easy and a quick job if you know the trick
Hydraulic...
A friend of mine told me how to do yesterday when I was talking about this
He is an old CB750 mechanic since his dragracing days in the 70-80's. Restore other bikes too.

The oil flow thru the 2 oil feed holes that also house 2 cylinder studs.
1. Thread the stud hole on top. I used M10 that can be used direct in existing hole.
2. Plug that stud hole with an M10 bolt
3. Flip head and place it on a container that cover the orifice.
4. Fill stud hole with oil. I used Motul 20w-50. I'm sure any oil will due, even synthetic! 
5. Place a 9mm drill in that hole, bottom first, and whack it down with a heavy plastic hammer.
6. Plop!! The orifice is now in the container
7. Drill was stucked in head for me so flip head and remove bolt, use a thinner pin and tap drill out.
8. Clean orifices and make sure the oil holes inside where the orifices sits are clean.

I'll grind my orifices outside a little with grit 800-1000 to make sure they can be removed easier from top next time.  When cam and towers are removed, perfect reason to clean the oil path with oil filter removed and flush oil passages clean with degreaser. I do no longer trust oil filter that might let particles thru or it can disintegrate it self.

Perfect. Thank you!