Topic: How to remove starter clutch CB750

[macvit7906]

I've searched the forum and can't really find the the info I'm looking for.

Is there a trick to removing the start clutch from the back of the alternator rotor?

I've tried an impact driver with no luck. Are the 3 screws just really stuck or are the left hand threaded? Are the held in place some other way?

I'm letting them soak in some pb blaster right now

[bryanj]

They were originally "cinched" into a small groove they will eventually shift with a correct size impact bit and a big hammer NOTE they are not phillips but jis

[macvit7906]

They were originally "cinched" into a small groove they will eventually shift with a correct size impact bit and a big hammer NOTE they are not phillips but jis

Thanks. Got one out then my JIS bit actually broke on the second! my next try is to heat it first.

Question: I have an RC engineering lightened rotor, but it does looks like the screw holes for the start clutch mechanism are there anymore.

When the rotors are lightened does that get rid of the ability to use the starter clutch?

looks like this:

[754]

Don't piss around with them, you just break your tools. Drill them out, 3 minutes later it's off.
The  lightened alternator come in 2 versions,  a bit lighter for electric start. A lot more lighter, no electric start..
 Yours is used on kick only motors.

 I suppose you  could maybe mount it, but the lip is missing.
 Just grab another rotor if you just have an e start..

I would reinstall a kicker shaft in your motor.
 

[PeWe]

My lightened rotor work fine with starter and charging system

[macvit7906]

Don't piss around with them, you just break your tools. Drill them out, 3 minutes later it's off.
The  lightened alternator come in 2 versions,  a bit lighter for electric start. A lot more lighter, no electric start..
 Yours is used on kick only motors.

 I suppose you  could maybe mount it, but the lip is missing.
 Just grab another rotor if you just have an e start..

I would reinstall a kicker shaft in your motor.

Awesome.Good to know, thanks.

[Don R]

   For my RC 836 motor, I put the starter back on it. I've been warned about a heavy flywheel damaging the crank.
   I ran into this, I have a light rotor that I made with just a starter drive and no charging, I have a, R.C. lightened rotor with charging but no starter option (same as shown above) but there is a lightened one that still has the three holes for the starter clutch although the lip has been removed. I'm not positive the three threaded holes will properly locate the starter clutch without the lip in place. (Thanks, Frank)
  Cycle X has them lightened with the starter drive left there, gasket, seal and balanced for $149 exchange, that includes a puller that I already have. I'm thinking since I'm already going there to get the CycleX one.
 Make sense? 
 

[scottly]

   For my RC 836 motor, I put the starter back on it. I've been warned about a heavy flywheel damaging the crank.
   I ran into this, I have a light rotor that I made with just a starter drive and no charging, I have a, R.C. lightened rotor with charging but no starter option (same as shown above) but there is a lightened one that still has the three holes for the starter clutch although the lip has been removed. I'm not positive the three threaded holes will properly locate the starter clutch without the lip in place. (Thanks, Frank)
  Cycle X has them lightened with the starter drive left there, gasket, seal and balanced for $149 exchange, that includes a puller that I already have. I'm thinking since I'm already going there to get the CycleX one.
 Make sense?

Don, I would just use a stock late model rotor. The K7 rotor I'm using has balancing holes, but the original K1 rotor with the flange had no evidence of balancing. Does Cycle X claim how much their lightened rotor weighs? I think the max that could be removed without losing charging ability would be less than 8 ounces, based on my experiments cutting down the K1 rotor.

[HondaMan]

   For my RC 836 motor, I put the starter back on it. I've been warned about a heavy flywheel damaging the crank.
   I ran into this, I have a light rotor that I made with just a starter drive and no charging, I have a, R.C. lightened rotor with charging but no starter option (same as shown above) but there is a lightened one that still has the three holes for the starter clutch although the lip has been removed. I'm not positive the three threaded holes will properly locate the starter clutch without the lip in place. (Thanks, Frank)
  Cycle X has them lightened with the starter drive left there, gasket, seal and balanced for $149 exchange, that includes a puller that I already have. I'm thinking since I'm already going there to get the CycleX one.
 Make sense?

Don, I would just use a stock late model rotor. The K7 rotor I'm using has balancing holes, but the original K1 rotor with the flange had no evidence of balancing. Does Cycle X claim how much their lightened rotor weighs? I think the max that could be removed without losing charging ability would be less than 8 ounces, based on my experiments cutting down the K1 rotor.

Scottly: how did you go about lightening one? Did it turn out to work OK?