Topic: CB/CL350 Tapered neck bearings

[chrisf]

Hi All:

I received my tapered steering neck bearingsfrom Pro-Flo over the weekend. How do I install these in my CL350? Do I remove the old "seat" that held the loose ball bearings and just gently tap in the new race? The kit came with big washers that look like they seal the kit; is there a specific order in which these go? There has got to be a trick to all this that I'm just not aware of.

Also, do I pack the bearings out with grease?

Any help is appreciated.

--Thanks, Chris

[bill440cars]

                Chris, While I've not installed these yet, I do know that you need to remove the old inner and outter races from the triple tree and from the frame also. Weren't there any instructions with the bearings as to the order in which they go together? There has been discussion on this before, maybe someone will kick in here that has some more words of wisdom on the subject. And, YES, the bearings do need to be packed with grease (if not already done).

                                                     Later on, Bill    

[CBGBs]

 I have a set of All Ballz tapered bearings for my CB350 but havent looked into the install yet so I will also be interested in install info.

[seaweb11]

Here is a link to my CL resto. and the bearing issue with photos.
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=4489.30

page 3 of many

good luck

[seaweb11]

How did you make out?

[CBGBs]

Mine came with general instructions although I don't know if I need to use the optional washer. The kit is All Balls. Seaweb, do you know anything about use of the 1mm washer?

[chrisf]

I looked into this a bit more last night, and it made more sense. I have the exact kit you have. From what I can tell, a single rubber-lined wash goes on the lower steering neck/trees, then the actual bearing slides over that. On the top, I installed the race in the steering neck, and it does stick up about 3/16". I'm going to paint the lower tree tonight. When that's cured, I'll slide the washer and lower bearing on the neck tree.

I'm pretty sure this is right. I think the lower rubber-lined washer is needed to seal the bearing...

Is moly grease the stuff to use on the bearings?

--Thanks, Chris

[CBGBs]

I have requested detailed instructions from Allballsracing.com. I hope they comply.
I'm alittle confused by just looking at the seals. I've notice that the lower bearing has the larger center. Please let me know how the part numbers  go in what position.

[seaweb11]

On my CL350, I needed the thick washer at the bottom before sliding on the bearing.

p.s. mine was not a ball bearing unit.

[mgmuellner]

I think it's rubber gasket, thick washer & bearing.  My instructions said to measure some stuff .. cant seem to find them now.  I suggest you just try to put it together.  If you dont get it the first time - you'll get it the 2nd.  It's not that hard to get the bearing off again without damaging. 

I'm working through a similar problem - I'm running a cb500(4) forks & gl1000 (I think) top triple.  I need an extra 1/4 in of thread. 

[CBGBs]

I recieved a response from Allballs on installation

****Part # 99-3511 goes in the top and 99-512 goes on the bottom. The seal in
your case should go on the bottom. Here are some general installation
instructions that I have put together.


The best way to knock out the old races is to take a long punch or any rod
and tap on the lip of the race working around evenly. If you have a bearing
extractor you may be able to use this. Using a little heat can also help to
get them started. To get the lower steering bearing off you may need a
bearing puller but a little heat and some ingenuity you will probably be
able to get it off. Clean the bore surface of the head tube and the stem.
You need to press the bottom bearing onto the stem. To do this a press is
needed. You may want to heat up the bearing and cool down the stem in the
freezer. To press the bearing on use a piece of pipe that fits around the
stem but still hits the inner race of the bearing. Make sure you put on the
seal down before pressing the bearing on the stem. To install the races
place the races in the freezer and slightly heat the head tube be careful
not to destroy your paint job. Get the races started and then with a socket
that has a slightly smaller than the outer diameter as the race knock them
in to place. remember if the are not started straight this is going to be
next to impossible so take your time and maybe get a friend to help. Make
sure to pack the new bearings with plenty of wheel bearing grease. Then
after reassembly the torque of the steering head tube should be increased by
ten ft lbs from the factory spec for the stock ball stacks. But it may have
to be adjusted if it feels too tight or to loose. If the bike originally had
taper bearings use the factory torque spec. usually a good torque setting is
28 ft/lbs.  If you have any more questions feel free to email me. Regards
Alex




   

[chrisf]

OK, I just did this. Here's the assembly order I used, from, the bottom up:

1.) Big, thick washer that comes with the kit
2.) Sealing, rubber-lined washer
3.) Wide ID bearing
4.) Wide OD race

Then in the topside, from the bottom up:

1.) Narrow ID race
2.) Narrow ID Taper bearing
3.) Sealing, rubber lined bearing

The top of the upper race does stick up from the neck 3/16" (5mm) but is concealed by the lower threaded washer.

Right or wrong, this is what I did. Looks right to me!

--Chris