Topic: Side panel woes

[58webbing]

Whoops!
A loud crack was heard while carefully removing the RH sidel panel in below zero conditions which was most upsetting as it has new paint on it. After looking around for a relacement, usually in worse condition than mine I figured I would repair it until something else turned up. What I need to know is what exactly is the plastic used to manufacture them, it seems like some sort of ABS the way it handles, but I need to know for sure so that I can choose the correct solvents etc..
What I have done in the past to effect solid repairs to other broken plastic parts, is to bond and screw metal or plastic bridging pieces across the crack in a couple of strategic places, gouge out the rest of the crack from the rear, weld with some suitable jollop prior to bonding on bridging pieces along the rest of the crack. On the outer side I will find a close match paint and touch up the crack so as to avoid a full respray.
Thank you in anticipation.

[pjlogue]

I would be hesitant to mess with any plastic in below zero conditions let alone 40 year old plastic.  When my old side cover cracked I used CA glue and baking soda.  I lightly sanded the back surface off, wet the crack with CA and sprinkled baking soda on it.  I repeated this until I had a good buildup bridging the crack.  You have to look very closely at the front to tell there was a crack.  It looks like your paint chipped off at the edge of the crack on your cover so any repair will be noticeable unless you repaint it. 

I don't think the covers are ABS because they seem harder than ABS.  Could be there are different types of ABS though.  I know Acetone will fuse with ABS.  You can try it on a small patch on the back side.  If it softens the plastic you could fuse a patch which would be stronger than the CA. 

-P.

[DJ]

I have used fiberglass to reinforce different forms of plastic in the past on car restorations and on 1 side panel for a little Kawasaki project. It does take away from the stock look on the backside of panel, but provides strength and rigidity. I sand the back [like rough so resin can attach and not peel] with heavy grit to provide a grip, wipe with acetone and apply resin and fiberglass mesh/ repeat layers for strength. not smooth or pretty but very strong. I prefer the mesh to the mat fiberglass. Good luck

[bryanj]

Dave Silver sells repro panels made by a firm called LPM in uk. These are a much more durable and flexible plasic that dont go brittle. I have before used woven glass fabric will fiberglass resin on the rear as a repair.

[AwesomeCB]

It's ABS so you don't want to use solvents like acetone. After repairing a few panels, I've decided that it makes more sense to go with repros. The old plastic is so brittle by this point, cracks seem almost inevitable even with careful handling. The last two panels I repaired, I used super glue and baking soda and that worked well. Lots of info on the technique. Found this for you: https://www.instructables.com/id/Baking-Soda-Reinforcing-Glue-Repair/

[lrutt]

I made an AL patch for the back of a panel then glued it in with JB weld. That AL patch also included a knob to insert into the rubber grommet. Has held up for many many years now. In your case, just a patch and the JB to hold the pieces together. Stresses are spread out over a larger area that way.

[BenelliSEI]

Ouch! ....... I like a two part epoxy, because it flows a bit, but generally won’t leak through to the front. Before applying to the rear, I take my Dremel and create a shallow trench down the crack (on the back!). I have a small, metal, cone shaped bit that is perfect for the job (check the selection at good hardware store). This creates a better surface for the glue to contact both sides. After that, I go through my grand daughter’s huge selection of coloured markers, and find the right one to touch up the flaked paint on the front of the crack........ good luck.

[58webbing]

Job done. As acetone and MEK wouldnt really touch the plastic go to method two. 1st off weld with soldering iron to hold the split together, 2nd add some ABS as a filler, 3rd rough up with a Dremel and bond in an ally bridge plate using some cheap eBay "epoxy" as it smells like an acrylic base 3rd put in place 2 countersunk screws for mechanical strength, 4th bond in place an ABS bridge and cover with lashings of "epoxy" When cured I flexed the whole panel to see if the fix had taken and it twisted OK without any signs of delaminating. Great Idea about using coloured pens, I used a wax crayon to fill the gap in the paint and the result is OK for now. Next get a repro panel and find a painter to match the colour.

[Don R]

 I've seen some nice repairs using fiberglass and resin. Replace the rubber grommets if you haven't already and don't remove when it's cold as you already noticed. After painting is done I put some silicone lube on the tabs.

[mrbreeze]

My bike has been on the back burner for a couple of years now but I did buy some side covers that needed crack repairs. I bought brand new badges and grommets and made the repairs with JB weld. I sanded and primered and that's where I stopped. I've had some health issues and moved out of that s%$thole they call California since then. I've decided that when I get back to it I'm just gonna order a set from Franken stuff because I just about can bet that if I go through the trouble of painting the old ones no matter how careful I am they will break. I think I would like to start with more modern plastic and I have always heard good things about Franken's offerings. Man I cringed when you said you removed yours in sub freezing temps. That's a big no-no as I'm sure you now realize!

[mrbreeze]

This is right side rattle canned with new badges

[przjohn]

Get the repro and get it painted. I had the same thing happen on a 750F resto. Pisses you off but what else ya gonna do.

[mrbreeze]

Left side primered with old badges. My old badges are new style and my new badges are old style! I like the old script badges better.

[scottly]

moved out of that s%$thole they call California since then.

Where are you living now, Fred?

[Kelly E]

There is a product called PlastiFix and it is made for repairing side covers, fairings and other abs plastic stuff. I have repaired a Nighthawk S fairing that had pieces missing with great success.

[mrbreeze]

moved out of that s%$thole they call California since then.

Where are you living now, Fred?

Back to Wyoming. If I need any rat race action, Salt Lake City is 130 miles west of me. I don't get to ride as much but when the weather cooperates it's more quality riding.

[TwoTired]

To help prevent cracking side covers, renew the rubber grommets that hold the side covers on.  They get brittle with age and even stiffer in the cold.

Its make the covers easier to remove.  But, still holds more firmly to stay on during use.

Cheers,

[BenelliSEI]

I also find the push in “tab” part of the side covers often have a small ridge or “flash” on them don’t be afraid to file/ smooth them off a bit and apply a good quality silicone grease. Always reach around the back and push them out. Hard on fingers but saves the covers.......

[Can550]

Solution to this for me was to replace grommets on all bikes and dab of grease on all tabs


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