Topic: Hubs and spokes look like &@%* Options? Tips?

[OldZaskar]

I've been through all my brushes and progressively harsher cleaners... the hubs and spokes aren't getting any better. I am NOT ready to attempt a wheel build. Before I break out the rattle cans - any suggestions?

Thanks!

[Can550]

I too was in similar situation. Mine were bad, removed the wheel, bearings  (left the tyres on) and gave for vapor blasting.
Front wheel


Rear wheel


Very pleased with results.



Hubs, spokes, sprocket all came out very good except some spokes which are pitted and I’ll replace these.

Fork lowers are the best looking part



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[BomberMann650]

Break out the 1500 grit sandpaper and 2500grit sanding sponge.  Could start with an 800grit sanding "brillo" to blend the flaws/wipe rust away.

Its a lot easier to do this off the bike and/or in a truing stand.

Should take up a long winters night to get it done that way.

[540nova]

I too was in similar situation. Mine were bad, removed the wheel, bearings  (left the tyres on) and gave for vapor blasting.



Very pleased with results.

Hubs, spokes, sprocket all came out as new.


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I hope this is the "before" picture.

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[Can550]

Yes before


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[pjlogue]

For the amount of time and effort you would put in trying to clean the hub and spokes up while assembled and have it look great you would be better off buying new spokes and disassemble the hub.  A bench grinder with 3m (scotch bright) wheels will get the hub in great shape. 

Trying to clean up old spokes is very time consuming (especially on the wheel) and once the plating is removed they will rust quickly. 

-P.

[jakec]

Can do you have an after photo? I'm in the same boat as OP. Mine don't look as bad though. I don't want to rebuild my wheels unless i'm getting aluminum rims and new tires as well.

[Can550]

Haven’t taken pictures yet
Shall do soon in daylight

Powder coated ;
Wheel spacer
Brake rod
Brake stay bracket

Look good



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[tlbranth]

I had a similar problem and decided to give wheel building a try. It really isn't that hard. For my CB750 I bought new spokes and one new rim. For my GL1000 I sent the spokes and nipples out to be re-plated. Both worked out well. Don't be afraid to rebuild your wheels. It gives you many more options, including easy access to the hub for cleaning and refinishing and you'll learn a new skill.

[Can550]

Correct
But somehow wheels re lacing always intimidated me for some unknown reason


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[tlbranth]

Correct
But somehow wheels re lacing always intimidated me for some unknown reason


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It did me too. But the options were not good 'til I decided to give it a go. Believe me, it really isn't terribly hard to do. There are tutorials you can follow. Take photos before disassembly so you know where everything goes. Put the spokes in and begin with all nipples about the same distance into the spoke. I wrote up something when I did my GL1000. I'll see if I can find it.

Look here: You may need a logon to see pics though.
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=64777&p=718749&hilit=wheel#p718749

[Can550]

Are you on naked forums ?


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[tlbranth]

Yessir

[Can550]

Had a feeling saw and read you there. I have few early wings


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[calj737]

Zaskar - remove the wheel from the bike. Given its appearance, it’s probable the wheel bearings need replacing anyway. There’s a trick to removing the retainer, so do some research before turning that out.

Pull the tire so you can inspect the backside of the rim. If it is rusted up, remove the spokes altogether. Then you can very easily have at the hub to remove the varnished up paint and clean the thing up. A quick respray for protection, lace the wheel (or take it to a local shop to have it done (shuold only run about $50 at a Harley dealer or other suitable shop). Or learn to do it for yourself and replace the tire to have it mounted and balanced.

You’ll be much better off knowing that things are right back there then venturing off on a 40 year old bike with unknown criticals in an unknown state.

[pjlogue]

Trying to restore an already laced wheel/hub is a waste of time.  To get old spokes looking new you will need to remove the oxide layer and in doing so you will remove the plating and they will rust quickly after that.  I would do what others above have suggested.  Get new spokes and do a full disassembly.  Old bearings that have dried out can fail quickly, rust inside the rim (where you can't see it) can puncture an inner tube.  With everything apart you can inspect/clean/rebuild so it looks almost new or at least know it is mechanically safe.

When I restored my 750 I initially began by seeing if I could just get it running.  Once I started on the bike I realized I would be better off going over every nut, bolt and screw after I found the wheel bearings dried out and rusted.  That made me realize the rush to ride it wasn't a good idea so I did a complete restoration top to bottom.  I started with the wheels.  At first it was daunting to relace a wheel.  I soon learned it wasn't hard to relace, true and balance a spoke wheel.



-P.

[OldZaskar]

Maybe I'm hesitant to build a wheel because of my cycling background. Building a wheel for a bicycle is literally the last thing even the most self-reliant amateur (and pro) mechanics will take on. Maybe the comparatively lightweight, narrow bicycle wheels are more difficult to build? They also require special tools - like a dishing tool, truing stand, tensionometer, patience... I don't have all of those tools ;-)

I like the idea of pulling the wheels to do - whatever I'm going to do - properly. If the only thing that comes out of this is a safety inspection and new wheel bearings, it's a win.

Can anyone point me to a tutorial on removing the wheels - disconnecting the speedo, brakes, etc. I've assembled and installed engines in Jeeps... and don't yet know how to pull a wheel off a motorcycle. Yeah, this is my starting point. 

Thanks!

[seanbarney41]

Come on man, you gotta do a little bit of leg work on your own.  The service manual is a free download on this site.

[pjlogue]

Pulling the wheels is easy.  For front:  Put bike on center stand.  Raise the front (jack or blocks under engine) so front wheel is ~4" off the ground.  Undo axle clamps.  Note the clamps have an orientation with the front being thicker than the rear.)  undo the spedo cable lock screw at the front axle and remove cable from the drive.  Depending on the size tire the wheel may come out with tilting to clear the rotor.  You may need to remove the fender if your tire is wide.

Rear:  Bike on center stand.  Loosen the axle nut and chain adjustment nuts so you have slack in the chain.  Undo the rear brake adjustment nut and disengage the brake rod from brake lever.  Undo the rear brake stay arm from the rear drum assembly. Depending on what exhaust you have, if the exhaust isn't in the way you can undo the axle nut and push out the axle.  If exhaust is in the way you need to remove the axle keepers at the rear of the swing arm and you can pull the wheel/axle assembly out from the rear.

Your best investment is getting a shop manual. 

-P.

[Mark1976]

   If your really into doing it right, this is a no brainer. Unmount the tires and inspect the condition of the backsides of the rims (as has already been mentioned), if for no other reason than for piece of mind. If they're rusty just toss them and replace with a rim and spokes (Buchenans) of choice. Anything else is just an excercise in futility, you'll end up doing it over and over again and it'll never look as good as you want.

[OldZaskar]

pjlogue, seanbarey41... Yep - right after I posed "how to... " I realized that's a quick find in the manual. Thanks. Got the manual.

[754]

 I think its just a mental obstacle..
 Not knowing this I pulled my balloon tire wheel or wheels apart .. I was I think 12.  And had no manual. I  think I painted rims. 
 I didn't think about it being and ordeal so it wasn't.

That said I have run into few problem lacing episodes . One was custom spokes to BSA  hub for 16 inch   different cross count on each side. The other was I think a rim drilled for a very different hub. Some rims inner spokes  cross and other  types dont.

 But our wheels are straightforward, you buy a rim for one of ours it should be drilled right. So long it's same type.
 I.e. drop center rim won't fit spokes for a regular rim.

[Can550]

I think its just a mental obstacle..

I too think so


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[MauiK3]

Re lacing rims is somewhat like meditation. You just keep at it slowly and it comes together. I think alloy rims might be easier than stock type steel. I got my spokes from Buchanan, stainless. Beautiful stuff. I don’t have any befor photos for some reason but they came out nicely and it wasn’t that hard. Fixing up rims assembled is a waste of time and materials.

[Mark1976]

+1 , Build the wheel,  it really is one of the easiest, best bang for your buck investments. Haven't had to kill myself cleaning a wheel in decades. Money and time well spent, If its rusty and crusty, throw it out. Your time, your money. Your bikes only as good as the wheels (and tires) it rolls on.