Topic: G’day! I’m an Aussie in Canada with a 1979 CB650! Cafe Resto-Mod style build.

[DANFROMOZ]

Here’s some more pics.

[DANFROMOZ]

Here’s some pics of my hoop/cowl from Cliff. When you click on the pics they show up the right way for me, hopefully that's the same for everyone else...

[DANFROMOZ]

I'll likely clean out the originally gas tank and use it for the build, but am considering getting something more sleek looking like a cb550 tank , kinda curvier. I don't mind how chunky this original tank looks though....

[DANFROMOZ]

Been a while, so I thought I’d add an update. I’ve pulled the motor and started the arduous task of cleaning it up. Next will be the cleaning of the trailing section of the frame.

[DANFROMOZ]

A bunch of new parts arrived a couple of days ago. Have another bunch on the way. Here’s some pics.

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Shorai Battery.

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New billet pistons from Dynoman.

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More pics.

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Started cutting the frame finally, not gonna lie, I was pretty concerned/cautious, It was a bit trickier than I expected. I did as much research as I could and got stuck in. I wasn’t sure if I could save the upper shock mounts & I probably can but I feel like it’s just gonna be a bit to rough for what I’m looking for. I think tomorrow I’ll cut them out, keep the 45 degree support bar and add a newly fabbed shock mount. You can see the hoop/cowl that’s going on in the pics.

[DANFROMOZ]

Ricks Reg/Rec for Lithium Battery.

[DANFROMOZ]

Dynoman’s own pod filters. The short version for better clearance of the frame.

[DANFROMOZ]

Btw, I’ve decided against the monoshock rear end conversion. Probably a bunch of you out there are happy to hear it, lol. Looking at some Racetech shocks in the more conventional two shock configuration. But they’ll be on the back burner for now.

[DANFROMOZ]

So next projects are cutting the frame and welding on the rear cowl/hoop/seat pan and disassembling the engine to send it off for machining. If anyone has any tips on what to watch out for when pulling the engine apart feel free to let me know. I’ve watched a couple of YouTube videos on some CB750 & CB550 tear-downs but there isn’t much on the CB650’s, I’m expecting them to be somewhat similar. I have a workshop manual too.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Btw, I’ve decided against the monoshock rear end conversion. Probably a bunch of you out there are happy to hear it, lol. Looking at some Racetech shocks in the more conventional two shock configuration. But they’ll be on the back burner for now.

The monoshock kit you mentioned was a little sketchy.  It made it sound like you could fit any sportbike shock with a 10-12 inch length -- without any thought as to this particular application and your weight.  Unfortunately, when you don't have someone competent figure out the appropriate shock and spring you risk having an unrideable bike.  Suspension isn't about sticking in something that fits.  Another member BLACBIKES (Bryan) actually took his mocked up bike to Racetech and them confirm his geometry and build a shock for his application -- one of the few builders that spent the time and money to do it right.

Anyway, good choice!

[DANFROMOZ]

Thanks for the feedback SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan. Nice to have someone agree with my choice, I’m still satisfied with my change of plan too. As for my engine tear down, I’m planning on videoing the disassembly and taking pics to  keep track of taking it a part so I have a reference when building it back up again. I have a new full engine gasket kit and a good quality head gasket from Dynoman too. Oh and a full Allen/hex bolt set too.
   I’ll need to be careful building it up again after the machining but it seems pulling it apart seems fairly straightforward...?

[rusty2078]

Hi Dan, just go slowly with the disassembly and keep a can of WD40 handy, along with a manual impact driver/JIS heads. Nothing terribly difficult about it, follow the sequence for torquing/loosening the head bolts...be patient. If you like the challenge of a jigsaw puzzle, don't bag and label anything and throw it all into a large plastic tote, then shake it around for good measure....hours and hours and hours of entertainment.....

And welcome to the cold version of Aus, BTW....different circus, same clowns....I'm probably a 48hr straight drive west of you, in Edmonton, AB...

[DANFROMOZ]

Hi Rusty, that’s great advice other than the puzzle, lol. I’m an Oilers supporter, but haven’t been to Edmonton yet, hoping to catch a game there. I’m about to go play some hockey with some fellas with my Oilers jersey on tonight, played last night too. Playin hockey makes my winters way more interesting, almost enjoy winters now! It’s like rugby on ice, with a weapon, sweet!

[DANFROMOZ]

Just got some more parts in the mail. Rear sets and heel guards from Cognito Moto. They look great, I’m really happy with them so far.

[DANFROMOZ]

Also got some Motogadget stuff too. And a bunch of wiring stuff to rewire the bike when the time comes.

[DANFROMOZ]

I’ve pulled the engine apart without any real issues. I’ve taken the block and the head to the machine shop to have the head decked and the block bored and honed for the billet pistons. The guy said he’ll gap the rings to the correct specs for me too. He’s going to clean up the combustion chambers and pull the valves out and clean it up, then replace the valve guides. I took the valve-train minus the cam to him. I noticed that one of the screw holes that holds the valve cover on had cracked and he’s agreed to add some weld to it so the screw has something to screw into again.

[DANFROMOZ]

I’m hoping to have the engine parts back from the machine shop soon, but now I’m wondering the best way to detail the engine. I didn’t plan to pull it all apart to this extent, but now that I have should I get the exterior of the block, head, etc, powder-coated instead of just painting it with high temp engine enamel? Any advice or opinions would be welcomed, especially if it’s someone that knows from experience!
   I’m planning on the engine/trans to be satin black with a few accents, like the fins to be scraped/shaved of paint/coating. I have a full set of stainless Allen head screws to go on after too.
   Also, I’m thinking I should crack the crankcase open while I’m at it to check the crankshaft bearings and replace the gaskets, does that seem like a good option? I’m a bit weary of going that deep but would hate the idea that something messes up after the bike is out back together...  so then I’d also paint/powder coat the cases too...?

[rusty2078]

Hi Dan, having come this far, it's not much more work to pull the bottom end apart and check all of your bearings...just for a little peace of mind and ensure that all is well down there. If they're visually good with no gross scratching or defects, check all of your shell bearing tolerances with plastigage (do a quick search on the site for more info on that), noting the colour coding on each one and where they are at in relation to the block and crank (and rod).
I haven't had a whole lot of experience with powder coating...had some XS cases done several years ago: not a bad finish, however they can be prone to off gassing during the heat/curing stage, causing defects in the finish. It still looked good, but not great. I'm not sure if this is a result of a lack of prep (the coating guy gave me advance warning that off gassing could happen, affecting outcomes), or the process. I don't know if there'd be any significant difference in durability, comparing to a good quality engine paint, but if done properly, the paint should give you a better chance at a better quality finish IMHO...(use a good quality spray gun and experiment a lot before shooting your cases, if planning on doing it yourself)....again, I'm not all that experienced with powder coating process. another consideration is the effect on heat dissipation that coatings may have, however with our climate up here I don't think that will really affect engine temps a whole lot. I believe that there are coatings that aid in heat dissipation as well, but I haven't done a whole lot of research into those, as I'm not into performance engine building. Going in another direction, you could go with Cerakoting, which uses a spray applied ceramic based coating product that is then cured in an oven....strong finish for applications with tight tolerances (popular with firearms)....intensive prep process involving very specific media IIRC...again, haven't done this, but would like to try. Similar to ceramic coating product used for exhausts. On the plus side, you have at least 6 months of our Canadian winter to work on your bike!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Dan,

Are you going to run the stock cam or a 126-20.  If you go with the 126-20 you will need to do further mods to the valvetrain.  Ask DaveBarbier or Mike Reick if you do.

[DANFROMOZ]

Hi Dan, having come this far, it's not much more work to pull the bottom end apart and check all of your bearings...just for a little peace of mind and ensure that all is well down there. If they're visually good with no gross scratching or defects, check all of your shell bearing tolerances with plastigage (do a quick search on the site for more info on that), noting the colour coding on each one and where they are at in relation to the block and crank (and rod).
I haven't had a whole lot of experience with powder coating...had some XS cases done several years ago: not a bad finish, however they can be prone to off gassing during the heat/curing stage, causing defects in the finish. It still looked good, but not great. I'm not sure if this is a result of a lack of prep (the coating guy gave me advance warning that off gassing could happen, affecting outcomes), or the process. I don't know if there'd be any significant difference in durability, comparing to a good quality engine paint, but if done properly, the paint should give you a better chance at a better quality finish IMHO...(use a good quality spray gun and experiment a lot before shooting your cases, if planning on doing it yourself)....again, I'm not all that experienced with powder coating process. another consideration is the effect on heat dissipation that coatings may have, however with our climate up here I don't think that will really affect engine temps a whole lot. I believe that there are coatings that aid in heat dissipation as well, but I haven't done a whole lot of research into those, as I'm not into performance engine building. Going in another direction, you could go with Cerakoting, which uses a spray applied ceramic based coating product that is then cured in an oven....strong finish for applications with tight tolerances (popular with firearms)....intensive prep process involving very specific media IIRC...again, haven't done this, but would like to try. Similar to ceramic coating product used for exhausts. On the plus side, you have at least 6 months of our Canadian winter to work on your bike!

Thanks for the info Rusty, much appreciated. I'm leaning towards painting each section of the engine with the high temp paint before I bolt it back together I think.

[DANFROMOZ]

Dan,

Are you going to run the stock cam or a 126-20.  If you go with the 126-20 you will need to do further mods to the valvetrain.  Ask DaveBarbier or Mike Reick if you do.

Hi SOHC4, The fella from Dynoman's suggested the stock CB650 cam was a fairly good match for the oversized billet pistons and the CR carbs so that sounded good to me. The engine was running quite well previously, as far as the previous owner was saying, so I probably didn't need to do the pistons, but just thought why not. You've got me a bit curious now though, so I'll research the cam. And thanks for the suggestions for people to connect with, there's nothing better than advice from people who know what's what.