Topic: G’day! I’m an Aussie in Canada with a 1979 CB650! Cafe Resto-Mod style build.

[DANFROMOZ]

   Also, the rubber seals at both the end of the crank in the pic attached, seem to be in great shape, should I be ordering new ones of those? If so, are seals, etc, that  I should be ordering at the same time, just to be safe?
   I will be ordering some HD head bolts and nuts from Dynoman’s website too.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

When you split cases, you should replace every seal and gasket.  Whether they look good, they are over 40 years old.  This is your chance to avoid future problems.

[grcamna2]

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[Sigmund]

It looks like the bearing has spun around. I'd replace it and the small roller bearings are cheap from Partzilla too.

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[DANFROMOZ]

When you split cases, you should replace every seal and gasket.  Whether they look good, they are over 40 years old.  This is your chance to avoid future problems.

Ok, will do. Thanks again.

[DANFROMOZ]

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Thanks!

[DANFROMOZ]

It looks like the bearing has spun around. I'd replace it and the small roller bearings are cheap from Partzilla too.

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Hi Sigmund, thanks for the reply. Thanks for the advice, I'll do that. The grooves in the semi circle sections of the crankcase are quite worn where the bearing sits, any advice on what to do there? smooth it out with something maybe, or just leave it alone...?

[DANFROMOZ]

  Well I’ve been putting the project into the too hard pile for last few weeks which is kinda dumb, but my latest concern is what I do about the grooved out areas on the crankcase housings where the bearings for the transmission and stuff locate themselves. See previous posts.
  The advice I hear is to replace all gaskets and seals which I agree with and want to do, so I have a list together of items to order but I’m holding off on the order because I don’t want to forget/miss something.
  I’m now working out if I should replace the bearings in the transmission area that sit in the semi circle areas in the case and have caused the case to groove. They look fine but if there is someone out there who knows something I don’t know please let me know or I’ll be umming and ahhing about it for an eternity & I need to get things moving I reckon....
   I have a full engine gasket kit and I’m ordering the rubber seals that are on either end of the crank where it sits in the case and see that there’s another one on the tranny I’ll get too, but are there any other gaskets/seals I may be missing...? Thanks for any assistance, even if you don’t 100% know.....

[DANFROMOZ]

  After checking around a bit I've realized I need an oil seal kit which I'm about to order. I may pick up replacement bearings for the shaft that the sprocket goes on, but I can't seem to locate the 36X57X13 - Countershaft Seal that doesn't come in the oil seal kit. Looks like this is a tricky one to locate for others too.

  Does anyone know where I can track one down? I'd be forever in your debt.....
 

[scunny]

CMSNL has it listed..https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb650p-1979-z-general-export_model50281/partslist/0038.html#.XtqwljlS-os
David Silver Spares..https://www.davidsilverspares.com/parts/by-part-number/part_91205426013/

[DANFROMOZ]

CMSNL has it listed..https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb650p-1979-z-general-export_model50281/partslist/0038.html#.XtqwljlS-os
David Silver Spares..https://www.davidsilverspares.com/parts/by-part-number/part_91205426013/

 Ok, I dont know if I should even have a favourite but you're my new favourite. Appreciate the help fella!

[DANFROMOZ]

Yikes $40-50 bucks before duty and postage, no oil leaks.... worth it!.....?

[grcamna2]

Yikes $40-50 bucks before duty and postage, no oil leaks.... worth it!.....?

I purchase from David Silver Spares often:they have a charge of only $10 shipping and no tax.

[DANFROMOZ]

Yikes $40-50 bucks before duty and postage, no oil leaks.... worth it!.....?

I purchase from David Silver Spares often:they have a charge of only $10 shipping and no tax.

$27 for the part and $25 for shipping, but that’s in USD plus taxes and duty I expect. I’m in Canada so it’ll add up. Had to buy the other oil seals from 4 into 1. No biggy, just glad I can move on to the next stage after that.

[DANFROMOZ]

Did some more sanding on the fins of the block and head so I can paint them satin black and scrape off the paint on the fin edges which will have the polished look. Hopefully paint a bunch of the engine covers & components this weekend and bake them where possible.
Once the oil seals get here I should be able to put the engine all together, should be interesting.....

[DANFROMOZ]

Hello all,
  I've been back in the shed after a strange summer.... You'd think I would've had plenty of time to kill in the shed over summer, but I guess I was outside doing other stuff.
  I've just placed another order for some small items I've found that I need for the project and getting a few more engine components painted the satin black I'm doing. Mostly the covers, rear hub and next will be the disassembled engine itself, head, block, top valve-train section.
   I've spent some time sanding the fins on the head and block to a nice flat surface and shine, so I can shave the paint off the fins once painted for a bit of contrast.
   I've been looking around for some stainless screws Hex/Allen to replace the stripped JIS ones from the oil pump, etc, but can't seem to track down the sizes I need, which from my measurements are M6 x 15mm and M6 x 35mm. Anyone have a source for these? I've really done alot of searching. I can find mild steel or nickel plated Hex in those sizes, etc, but not stainless....
   I have found ones that are close, I think I saw an M6 x 14mm, so a bit shorter, would that matter at all? Or am I just being too pedantic and I should just get non stainless screws.... ?
  Anyway, I'll throw some pics up of what I've been up to shortly, I'm about to put the Cognito Moto rear disc hub together finally.
  Turns out, even though the hub came with the new bearings already in place, you have to pull one out to be able to put the long cylindrical hub spacer from the original hub in.
  Took me a while to realize that and also the inner most retainer (one with the 2 slots that needs a special tool, not the 4 hole outer one that also needs a special tool) is now obsolete due to the new Cognito designed hub. Something else I didn't quite realize. That section isn't threaded so I knew something was up.
   Hopefully that news will save somone a day or two.....

[DANFROMOZ]

Here’s some pics. Btw, any questions let me know.

[DANFROMOZ]

Here’s some pics of the rear hub stuff.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Looking good, Dan.

[DaveBarbier]

Man I really need to spend more time in the project section, a lot of good stuff going on.

Nice work so far Dan, I’ve been perusing your thread this morning.

As for the screws for the oil pump, just use the non-stainless. Makes zero difference. Get as close to the original size as you can. If they’re too long, grind it down a bit. I wouldn’t go any shorter than 3-4mm though. Actually if I read correctly you did/will replace the engine screws with stainless allens so just use some of the existing screws from the engine. I actually prefer the screws that Honda used for the 650’s. Being able to use a ratchet and 8mm socket is excellent. Just have to be careful not to go too tight on reassembly.

So I haven’t read every single post but what is the current state of the motor? Cases are still split I’m assuming since you were talking about painting/powder coating.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hey Dan,

What size tire is that Pirelli rear? 150 or 160?

[DANFROMOZ]

Hey Dan,

What size tire is that Pirelli rear? 150 or 160?

It’s a 160.

[DANFROMOZ]

Man I really need to spend more time in the project section, a lot of good stuff going on.

Nice work so far Dan, I’ve been perusing your thread this morning.

As for the screws for the oil pump, just use the non-stainless. Makes zero difference. Get as close to the original size as you can. If they’re too long, grind it down a bit. I wouldn’t go any shorter than 3-4mm though. Actually if I read correctly you did/will replace the engine screws with stainless allens so just use some of the existing screws from the engine. I actually prefer the screws that Honda used for the 650’s. Being able to use a ratchet and 8mm socket is excellent. Just have to be careful not to go too tight on reassembly.

So I haven’t read every single post but what is the current state of the motor? Cases are still split I’m assuming since you were talking about painting/powder coating.

Hi Dave, thanks for the message & interest. I’m just about to put the new rear wheel/hub assembly together and put it on the bike to see how it all comes together. Then I can mock up the rear disc brake assembly, etc too. I used the old bearing to smack the new bearing into the hub, but got it stuck in the hub too, what a moron, so I had to borrow my mates bearing puller again, got that out yesterday.

  Cases are still apart and I’ve painted most of the covers and components, but next is painting the block, head and case halves. I’ve shaved the fins and will scrape them back after painting. I checked the bearings and clearances and all looks great.
  Once that painting is done I can work on putting the engine back together and in the bike again. Should be more fun from there, bolting new parts on. Getting a message from you guys here and there kinda gets me moving so thanks.
 

[DANFROMOZ]

Here’s some pics. Stupid stuck bearing (now out), painted covers,  rear hub components, etc.

[DaveBarbier]

Really nice finish on those. By the way, did you go with CR 26’s or 29’s? I have 26’s on mine. Pulls excellently. I’d also be very interested to see what hp/torque number you get if you bring it to a dyno. Our motors will be very similar but I have a 126-20 cam and ported stage 2.5 by Mreick.