Topic: Changing the sprockets and chain on a '73 CB500

[OldZaskar]

I'm changing the chain on my newly acquired CB500 because it just looks like crap and I have no idea when the previous owner last swapped it. I'm assuming when the chain is worn (especially if it's really worn) it makes sense to do the sprockets too. I was thinking I'd go up one or two teeth in the back, or down one tooth in the front from O.E. I plan to ride this bike almost exclusively local with very little highway. But I ran into one snag. I can not determine what was stock on this bike. It currently has (had) a 34t, but it's clear it's been swapped - or at least removed and replaced.

I've scoured manuals, the internet, etc and can't find anything definitive. I could go by vendors' lists - that suggest the O.E. gears were 17t and 34t.

So, a few questions:
- Can anyone confirm that 17:34 is stock?
- Assuming the factory rear was a 34t, would going to a 36t be a good idea - given the local/low speed use?
- Any reason not to go with Outlaw Racing sprockets?
- There are lots of cheap chains out there. But it seems the D.I.D. 530x100L is the way go - any reason to get anything else?
- Anyone got a favorite chain tool?
- The brake shoes seem to be in good shape - no delaminating, scoring, etc. but, they're barely 5mm. Seems like it makes sense to do new ones now - since it's all apart (and clean!)... right?



Maybe not worn out - I'm guessing 50%? Still, feeling like it'd be good to start "fresh" with a new chain and new teeth all around.

[calj737]

Just stick with stock sprockets and learn to rev the engine where it was designed to be run; above 5,000 RPM. If you ride it in it’s sweet spot, you’ll find the stock gearing is just right. Too many folks putt-putt around under 3,000 

DID chain and make sure it’s a non-O-ring type.

[Little_Phil]

17/34 was stock.
If there is an even 5mm all round the shoes, I'd stick with them. Check your drum for cracks whilst it's apart.

[OldZaskar]

Copy that. Thanks. I ordered the D.I.D. 530 non-O-ring chain and 17/34t sprockets

The pads measured at 4.8mm. I going to swap them... just 'cause they're apart and well, I'm in that "fresh start" mode with this thing. I'm sure the novelty will wear off soon.

Thanks again.

[Deltarider]

Actually the DID standard chain I have now, is about the poorest I ever had. It needs adjusting after almost every ride. The chain that I liked best, is the Tsubaki QR 530 which came pre-stretched (to reduce initial stretch) and thoroughly greased. Also the Tsubaki connecting link's clip is much better designed than the flimsy DID one. I don't know why my Dutch parts supplier turned from Tsubaki to DID. Maybe his customers want to look their bike original even in minor details like the logo on the chain. Anyway, it's a shame, really.

[OldZaskar]

In the bicycle world, "chain stretch" has largely been debunked - in that bicycle chains don't stretch, they wear out. The plates remain the same length - the pins/rollers/bearings wear out creating small amounts of play that, over the length of the chain, add up and result in a longer chain... which then accelerates the wear on the cogs, etc.

Is this different with motorcycles/motorcycle chains? If so, what is stretched when the chain is pre-stretched?

Thanks!

[Tracksnblades1]

Actually the DID standard chain I have now, is about the poorest I ever had. It needs adjusting after almost every ride. The chain that I liked best, is the Tsubaki QR 530 which came pre-stretched (to reduce initial stretch) and thoroughly greased. Also the Tsubaki connecting link's clip is much better designed than the flimsy DID one. I don't know why my Dutch parts supplier turned from Tsubaki to DID. Maybe his customers want to look their bike original even in minor details like the logo on the chain. Anyway, it's a shame, really.

+1, experience with DID. In defense some chain companies have their econo lines.
+1, Tsubaki pre-stretched 😇😇
+1, RK pre-stretched. 😇😇
I bought from the original owner a 2001 Honda CR500 that had a new REGINA 520 oring chain installed.
One tough chain, never needs adjusted, always running in crap environments. I'm definitely going to try one of these on old 750 if the old RK ever wears out.
👍

[seanbarney41]

Yeah, screw those DID non 0-ring chains.  My GS1100 ate one of those in 5 days/1600 miles.  By the end of the trip I was adjusting every 100 miles just to keep it from jumping off the sprockets!

[bryanj]

DO NOT FIT AN O RING CHAIN TO A 500/550 !!!!!!!!!! They are too wide and eat into the crankcases.

You could use 550 sprockets at 17/37 BUT on the 550 the primary ratio was different so the overall was about the same.

[dave500]

ive tried the 37 rear on 500s and its like you gained a crawl gear and lost top gear!i live in a hilly area and thought it would be fine,i only went about 15 minutes and went straight home and swapped it back,it really feels like you only get to fourth gear!i imagine swapping a 34 onto a 550 would feel like pulling away in 2nd and top is a real steep overdrive?

[Bob3050]

DO NOT FIT AN O RING CHAIN TO A 500/550 !!!!!!!!!! They are too wide and eat into the crankcases.

You could use 550 sprockets at 17/37 BUT on the 550 the primary ratio was different so the overall was about the same.

An "O" ring chain can be used on a 500 by grinding the shoulder on the counter sprocket so that one side is completely flat. The flat side is faced out so that the bolt-on  retaining clip draws the sprocket out from the case. This provides enough clearance for the wider chain. I'm using that set-up on my 500 right now and am just starting on my second chain after almost 15000 miles.
   Bob 

[Korven]

DO NOT FIT AN O RING CHAIN TO A 500/550 !!!!!!!!!! They are too wide and eat into the crankcases.

You could use 550 sprockets at 17/37 BUT on the 550 the primary ratio was different so the overall was about the same.

An "O" ring chain can be used on a 500 by grinding the shoulder on the counter sprocket so that one side is completely flat. The flat side is faced out so that the bolt-on  retaining clip draws the sprocket out from the case. This provides enough clearance for the wider chain. I'm using that set-up on my 500 right now and am just starting on my second chain after almost 15000 miles.
   Bob

Do you have an image of this?

[Bob3050]

DO NOT FIT AN O RING CHAIN TO A 500/550 !!!!!!!!!! They are too wide and eat into the crankcases.

You could use 550 sprockets at 17/37 BUT on the 550 the primary ratio was different so the overall was about the same.

An "O" ring chain can be used on a 500 by grinding the shoulder on the counter sprocket so that one side is completely flat. The flat side is faced out so that the bolt-on  retaining clip draws the sprocket out from the case. This provides enough clearance for the wider chain. I'm using that set-up on my 500 right now and am just starting on my second chain after almost 15000 miles.
   Bob

Do you have an image of this?

Here are a couple of pics of the sprocket I recently replaced. You can see the shouldered side and the side that I ground flat. With that flat side mounted to the outside it draws the sprocket out enough to give adequate clearance for an "o" ring chain. Works great.
   Bob

[dave500]

yeah still check out the clearance some are thicker than others or have more pin protruding.

[Deltarider]

yeah still check out the clearance some are thicker than others or have more pin protruding.

Right. As a matter of fact I know at least one CBfour dealer that sells sealed chains to CB500 owners and claims there's no problem. Decades ago I myself had an O-ring chain on my CB500 and I can't recall there was damage. To my embarrasment I've forgotten to look last time I replaced the front sprocket. Next time the cover is of, I'll have a look. Isn't this damage by rubbing mainly on CB550's? I run a conventional chain for another reason: I hate rain. Gentlemen don't ride in rain, you know.

[dave500]

its both 500 and 550.

[Deltarider]

Any one ever run a DID 50VA O-ring chain? That's what that dealer is stocking for CB500 as well as CB550.