Topic: Need to fix a spark plug hole thread. Need correct specs

[juntjoo]

Actually some ohv engines are much lower revving than  ours .
 Ours tend to have quite small valves and collars, so some ohv stuff may not fit right.
 And also our valves are thinner and bend easily if you hit them with a hammer type tool..

 So we are trying to get you to use the RIGHT STUFF  works better faster, hurts less things .
 If you think a valve compressor takes up a lot of room, its less than the parts you have off your motor now..

Thanks. I'll update once head arrives in about ten days. It looked pretty clean from the pics. Whatever that means

[juntjoo]

How do you guys clean the intake and exhaust ports without a sand blaster? Is there some thick solvent you can paste on and let marinate the carbon before using q tips?

Or can I just use seafoam with every tank of gas for ever? Seems to have cleaned up my stuttering lawn mower

I've also got a torch

Also I've got some of that headlight cleaner paste. Hmmm?

[millla03]

Soda blasting does an excellent job of removing carbon build-up without damaging the substrate. I use a cheap Harbor Freight hopper gun and it works just fine for carbs and smaller cylinder heads like our bikes have.

A brass brush and kerosene might get you somewhere, just depending on how much carbon build-up there is. Make sure whatever you use won't damage aluminum. Some things, like oven cleaner, are caustic and will damage the cylinder head itself.

You could also contact a local machine shop to clean up the head for you. That's what I would do if media blasting isn't an option, although others may be along shortly with better at-home solutions. A machine shop can also inspect the valves/guides/seats and give you a reasonable idea of what condition everything is in.

[juntjoo]

Soda blasting does an excellent job of removing carbon build-up without damaging the substrate. I use a cheap Harbor Freight hopper gun and it works just fine for carbs and smaller cylinder heads like our bikes have.

A brass brush and kerosene might get you somewhere, just depending on how much carbon build-up there is. Make sure whatever you use won't damage aluminum. Some things, like oven cleaner, are caustic and will damage the cylinder head itself.

You could also contact a local machine shop to clean up the head for you. That's what I would do if media blasting isn't an option, although others may be along shortly with better at-home solutions. A machine shop can also inspect the valves/guides/seats and give you a reasonable idea of what condition everything is in.

Thanks. I'd rather not go the through researching and getting/storing more equipment although it seems like at least once a year I wish I had a sandblaster and welding equipment, but I did glean across some affordable and small space occupying solutions. Maybe. But I think I may just try the stuff I have in my garage. Just a few hours of meditative work would be good for the soul. I'm finding wd40 is used a lot for loosening up gunk too. I'll experiment and see what works...

[Scott S]

 Kerosene and a brass brush. You can even get a small brush kit from Harbor Freight, etc.

[juntjoo]

Kerosene, okay, thanks

[juntjoo]

Sometimes you don't need to buy a tool. Saw something like this on YouTube. Kinda shabby but works. Probably won't be as easy putting em back in. But I guess it's basically the same process with a real tool tho as far as fiddling getting the keepers in place right?

Anyway, the seals, how do you get them off? A pair of pliers since they'll be garbage? Then lightly hammer/press replacements on?

And how necessary is it to even clean all the carbon in the ports? I see the point of cleaning the valves themselves and the top of the pistons but what would really be the effective difference in the ports besides a tiny bit of extra space opened up in there? And for that matter it's just gonna come back in which case shouldn't you just consider fuel system cleaners? Speaking of which, I've learned about using straight water, and with my pod filters, wouldn't riding in the rain accomplish this procedure? I plan on making some rain covers for my pods but if I ever wanted to do a water cleaning, some rain riding would seem to do the trick. What you guys think about the water method? A couple vids I saw made it seem pretty promising.

Thanks!

[Scott S]

 Use a little grease on the keepers when putting them back in. Helps hold them in place.
 Stem seals should just push on.

[pjlogue]

If you use a wire brush to remove carbon be sure you don't breathe the dust!  Old engines can have lead deposits.

-P.

[juntjoo]

Thank you's!

[DaveBarbier]

Don’t bother cleaning up the exhaust and intake tracts.

[juntjoo]

Don’t bother cleaning up the exhaust and intake tracts.

Thanks, already got one of those cheap aluminum foil turkey pans to soak the head in some purple power. I'll be soaking the valves and mating surfaces too to get the left over gasket material off easier. So whatever.

But I wanna get the studs out to reduce the space in the container for the solvent. Are they easy to get out and back in? What's the process? They're screwed in right? Hmm.. I bet not easy as they must be really tight to keep put in there right?

No, never mind. Studs apparently are used once

[rupaulpierce]

I've successfully used the "reverse tap" tool that you can find on amazon.

Sounds plausible. I'd never heard of that. But if it is a bike I'm going to keep, the head's coming off. 

It works


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[DaveBarbier]

Don’t bother cleaning up the exhaust and intake tracts.

Thanks, already got one of those cheap aluminum foil turkey pans to soak the head in some purple power. I'll be soaking the valves and mating surfaces too to get the left over gasket material off easier. So whatever.

But I wanna get the studs out to reduce the space in the container for the solvent. Are they easy to get out and back in? What's the process? They're screwed in right? Hmm.. I bet not easy as they must be really tight to keep put in there right?

No, never mind. Studs apparently are used once

The studs can totally be reused. They unscrew, sometimes easily and sometimes they’ll snap. Depends on the level of corrosion. Do a search on “double nutting” (adult filter turned ON!). That’s the easiest method.

And you feel you’re already locked in to soak the head because you bought a 50¢ pan?

[juntjoo]

Don’t bother cleaning up the exhaust and intake tracts.

Thanks, already got one of those cheap aluminum foil turkey pans to soak the head in some purple power. I'll be soaking the valves and mating surfaces too to get the left over gasket material off easier. So whatever.

But I wanna get the studs out to reduce the space in the container for the solvent. Are they easy to get out and back in? What's the process? They're screwed in right? Hmm.. I bet not easy as they must be really tight to keep put in there right?

No, never mind. Studs apparently are used once

The studs can totally be reused. They unscrew, sometimes easily and sometimes they’ll snap. Depends on the level of corrosion. Do a search on “double nutting” (adult filter turned ON!). That’s the easiest method.

And you feel you’re already locked in to soak the head because you bought a 50¢ pan?

it was $3 plus the purple power.  it was a good thing to do I think. except it leaked over night and sulferish powder dried all about the head.  but it loosened up all the grime and I power washed it and scrubbed and brushed and now I'm gonna repaint it.  never mind the studs but thanks. good to know for future ref.  is there a particular tool to grip them or just use some pliers and something in between?  anyway, can't wait to get the bike back up.  just been spending maybe an hour at a time on it though. 

hey, on a side note, about painting, until I ever get the main blue color matched, what do I do to protect the areas the paint is chipped?  sand, clean, primer? I've got rusting little nicks and scratches here and there. And supposing there isn't a pre-made blue to match 1982 bike, where does one get auto paint matched? 

and would a brake caliper grade flat black suffice for the head? or I believe last time I shopped auto paint there were different heat resistant grades. do I just go the highest? thanks

[Scott S]

 When you double nut to remove a stud, you just use a wrench on one of the nuts.

 Any good auto body paint store can match the paint for you. Some can even mix it and put it in aerosol cans.

Use VHT or Dupli-Color engine paint. Probably a gloss or semi gloss black for the engine.

[juntjoo]

When you double nut to remove a stud, you just use a wrench on one of the nuts.

 Any good auto body paint store can match the paint for you. Some can even mix it and put it in aerosol cans.

Use VHT or Dupli-Color engine paint. Probably a gloss or semi gloss black for the engine.

Thank you Scott! Wasn't aware there were auto body paint stores. I'll find one.. and get some proper paint for my head and paint my blinds black while I'm at it so I can sleep better beyond sunrise..

[DaveBarbier]

...so I can sleep better beyond sunrise..

You lucky bastard

[juntjoo]

I'm starting to consider getting a sand blaster as I'm often finding a purpose for one.

If I get one, do I get a dedicated one or just the nozzle and a stand alone tank? If I get the tank separate I can use if for other purposes. Or can I also use a dedicated sand blaster's tank for other purposes?

Either way, anyone have any recommendations. Should I skip harbor freight(low reviews)? Thanks

[jgger]

Ben a sandblaster is only as good as the compressor that powers it. For your use the blaster is the cheap part, a compressor with the proper cfm will probably start around 5 to7 hundred dollars.

[juntjoo]

Ben a sandblaster is only as good as the compressor that powers it. For your use the blaster is the cheap part, a compressor with the proper cfm will probably start around 5 to7 hundred dollars.

Oh geez. Lol. Thanks. I'll look a bit more I to it. Or just forget about altogether

[juntjoo]

So starting then with cfm's, what's the minimum you'd go on a budget? I can put some work into it and would like at least a half hour of continuous use til I see a squirrel.

[jgger]

The sandblaster will have the specs, check out the data sheet.

[Scott S]

 You're gonna need a decent size tank for 30 minutes use without the compressor running.

[juntjoo]

You're gonna need a decent size tank for 30 minutes use without the compressor running.

Like what, the size of my water heater?

I take it not many home mechanics have this setup. Plus you gotta get one of those enclosures to keep things neat and economical with the media. Man, too much space to really clean auto parts. I imagine it's the easiest way to clean all those nooks and crannies between those cooling thingamuhjiggies(fins?)