Back at the electrical and all was looking well until the start circuit. This took me awhile to figure out. I will try and document it the best I can so that maybe the next guy will have it easier. When you mix reproduction parts on bikes that have Euro and US Specs there are going to be conflicts. Basically this bike came with a Zenor Diode as described previously. The harness came ready to accept the Starter Safety Relay. All the following is to be able to get the bike to use the Neutral Switch or Clutch Switch to start as designed with the reproduction parts that are available. It is not a hard to perform modification.
Here is a diagram of the mod, sorry for my poor graphics.
The Green and Red (G/R) wire coming from the starter solenoid will ground directly in the new reproduction harness making the safety circuit useless. If you don't care about that you are good to go, grab a beer and skip this tutorial.
Cut out the Red Molex connector that went to the Starter Safety Relay and cap all wires except the G/R and the LG/R (Light Green and Red) . Disconnect and cap the G/R wire from the Molex Connector on the electrical panel to the Starter Solenoid. Take the G/R from the Solenoid and route it to connect to the G/R from the Clutch Switch that was on the Red Molex Plug and the G/R from the Zenor Diode. The LG/R on the Diode gets connected to the LG/R that was on the Red Molex Plug. Some pics,
Dead end and cap the Male fitting shown here that comes from the Molex Plug on the electrical panel. Make a new G/R from the Solenoid, ( about 10" long) shown here as a completed plug.
Bring that wire to meet the G/R from the Clutch Switch and the G/R to the Diode shown here is the 3 way connection. Connect the LG/R that was connected to the Red Molex Connector and connect to the diode.
When you take a minute and look at it, this mod takes a few minutes at best.
Since the bars are now lower the clutch cable had to be shortened 120MM
I've got 2 great kits for cables but honestly, 90% of what we normally do can be done with just the Motion Pro Kit. The Venhill Kit can reproduce just about cable.
Measure twice cut once. The end of the cable gets a slight fray to hold it in to the new cable end.
It is then dipped into my solder pot that is nothing more that a 1-1/4" end cap with solder in it. It gets heated by the torch for like 1 minute until the solder melts.
You end up with a perfect factory looking cable end.
Electronic Ignition is installed and timed.
The new Antigravity Battery got installed today.
And then the Gremlins came home. Went to spin the motor with no plugs to circulate oil, it screeched and screamed like hell. WTF? The motor has been consistently turned over by hand smooth as silk. Hit the button again and this time it sounded like the motor seized. Grabbed the 23MM Socket and manually turned the motor over with ease, no motor seized. Took Starter Motor off and did what I should have done in the beginning, Bench Test It. The starter motor is farked and I am going to figure out the best way to deal with that. Was hoping to start the bike this weekend but I ain't no kicker.
Got the front brake finished and started on the seat. I am cheating here and using a David Silver Repro Seat as the pan of this one is doo doo bengata. The problem I ran into is that the PO of this bike must have done some seat work as the seat has been recovered and foam modified, guess he didn't think having a seat latch was a big deal. The big problem for me was that the parts I bought for the latch/lock don't even come close to fitting up. Went to Ebay and found the bracket I am missing. Hoping I can still use these once the bracket comes in.
Started to mock up the tank and have a choice between 2 emblems. The first is the Gold Border Emblem and the second is the Black Border Emblem. I am open to opinions on which to use.
Some progress pics,
Thanks for following along with my project.
