Topic: Mix Match 750 build - next stage cheap 836 kit

[Godffery]

Do I need to really file down the lower part of the caliper mount on the right side to get it parallel with the disk face? That's the only thing I haven't done and it's still cocked.

How thick are the shims under the upper mount? They should be about 3mm. Remove the adjuster screw and spring, at least until you get the caliper aligned in the vertical axis.

The thickness of the fender bracket is what makes up the space required for mounting the right side caliper, So you might want to decide what you your plans are with that first. If you go with the stock bracket, and have the later model one with the oversize holes, one solution to that is pressing in a clock washer, they seem to fit pretty well.
 If you go with a fork brace, I would recommend the Tarozzi.  With some creativity, you can use it to mount a fender to the underside of that, and eliminate a bracket.
 I agree with the "Remove the adjuster screw and spring". I always eliminate those completely, that was pretty much a failed idea by Honda that caused more problems then it solved. (especially if not maintained properly & often)
 As for the mushy lever / bleeding issue; Part of the problem your having might be related to the misalignment of a caliper, causing the fluid to flush-back into the line and taking air with it. I recommend sorting the spacing first.  BTW; Are you using a larger master, now that you have 2 calipers to feed?  You will need at least a 14mm / 9/16" bore. The larger you go, the firmer the lever response will be.   Maximum for that would be about 15.8mm / 5/8" to 17.4mm / 11/16".  (note* if you go with a radial design master, those sizes jump up dramatically. Like in the 20mm range)
 Oh, one other thing regarding the master cylinder; If you use one with a built in brake light switch, you can eliminate the switch & junction mounted on the lower triple-tree.  Those just steel pressure from the system and ad unnecessary potential leek points.

[Shtonecb500]

Do I need to really file down the lower part of the caliper mount on the right side to get it parallel with the disk face? That's the only thing I haven't done and it's still cocked.

How thick are the shims under the upper mount? They should be about 3mm. Remove the adjuster screw and spring, at least until you get the caliper aligned in the vertical axis.

The thickness of the fender bracket is what makes up the space required for mounting the right side caliper, So you might want to decide what you your plans are with that first. If you go with the stock bracket, and have the later model one with the oversize holes, one solution to that is pressing in a clock washer, they seem to fit pretty well.
 If you go with a fork brace, I would recommend the Tarozzi.  With some creativity, you can use it to mount a fender to the underside of that, and eliminate a bracket.
 I agree with the "Remove the adjuster screw and spring". I always eliminate those completely, that was pretty much a failed idea by Honda that caused more problems then it solved. (especially if not maintained properly & often)
 As for the mushy lever / bleeding issue; Part of the problem your having might be related to the misalignment of a caliper, causing the fluid to flush-back into the line and taking air with it. I recommend sorting the spacing first.  BTW; Are you using a larger master, now that you have 2 calipers to feed?  You will need at least a 14mm / 9/16" bore. The larger you go, the firmer the lever response will be.   Maximum for that would be about 15.8mm / 5/8" to 17.4mm / 11/16".  (note* if you go with a radial design master, those sizes jump up dramatically. Like in the 20mm range)
 Oh, one other thing regarding the master cylinder; If you use one with a built in brake light switch, you can eliminate the switch & junction mounted on the lower triple-tree.  Those just steel pressure from the system and ad unnecessary potential leek points.

Im not sure what a clock washer is. The spacer I had in there were 1mm so I added two more and spaced out the bottom of the bracket as well. It made a big difference, removed the screw and spring too, do you guys runs your brakes without one on a single disc set up?

Im using a cheap after market mc and clutch off of amazon, I have the same brake lever on my 550 and it works, kinda soft but works. This one is the same. I rather figure it out than abandon the second disc so Ill keep working on it. The MC has a 16mm bore so it handle the workload of the dual disc, I pressed in the pucks and bled the brakes again. The the idea of eliminating the junction with the brake switch is good, I'll see whats around the shop tomorrow. The seat cover is nice for 35 bucks and comes with a full strap, got the ko tank trim on, made some "L" brackets with flat stock and mounted my signals, did my usual soldering and whatever,  still need to button up the headlight, taillight and front signals. I rode the bike today and it felt good, sounds like I need to sync the carbs again.

[754]

If I pull spring out, it never goes back in.. been doing it for 30 years .
 FWIW, the stock mastercylinder , with -3 lines, a T for a splitter, no switch... can have  very firm feel and work very well..
I bet rubber lines won't feel as firm..

[Godffery]

 Yeah, those rubber brake lines can be a real break power killer.

As for those "clock washers"... Sorry, that's a type-0, should be Lock washer.  (BTW; the caliper fitment is looking pretty good now.)

 Just got'a throw in my opinion on where you bought the master from;  The Amazon empire is an Evil mega corporation run by the Dark lord. 

[scottly]

The lower caliper mounting boss is the same on both sides, but the upper bosses are shorter on the right side fork leg (on the left in the pic), so there should be 3 more washers than on the bottom. Like Frank said, the stock 14mm caliper works well with twin 38mm brake calipers.

[Shtonecb500]

Good evening,

I realized today I had the cable going directly to my battery instead of my starter solenoid, thats why I wasn't able to electric start my bike yesterday... wow..cant believe i did that, pulled my harness and everything bc i was getting bleed out everywhere blah blah.

I purchased swapped in a '72 harness to simplify the wiring. I wanted a new harness on here anyway and this one will go to the next build.

So, the front wheel is what it is, but feels fine under load. I agree with everyone about getting new brake lines and eliminating the junction at the triple. I removed the screw and spring on the left side and just letting it float.. I had a little LED tail light and it died on me tonight so I replaced with the easiest swap in the shop just so I could see if things worked and test ridet it. Its so ugly but I'll order something else later..

This is my first personal 750 and im already loving it, im thinking luggage carriers and a fairing and then touring this out west. I MIGHT remove the dual disk if i tour the bike just because of all of the extra work that comes with it in case of hazard. Ill include pictures of racks and panniers im thinking about and picture of the fairing that I have that was on a 750 already.

This guy sells the luggage carriers on eBay for 200 bucks or I could just make them. I think the aluminum panniers you see on adventure bikes sitting almost flush with the top of the seat would look great.

Im going to check the valves again and re sync the carbs in the morning.

ordering a tailight and electronic flasher tonight. I ordered a flasher and it never showed in the mail, kind of annoying thats the thing im missing right now cause my signals wont flash...at least they come on
I didn't know the trim on the bottom of the seat didnt come off, i tried to salvage it but I ended up throwing it out. I'll just use some of that chrome trim you can get from the auto store, for 35 bucks these set covers are a great pick up, it came with a full strap and buckles. The only thing i need to do it punch new holes in the belt so its tighter around the seat.

Still need fork ears, matching speedo (if anyone has a suggestion for one let me know), seat trim, weld a exhaust pipe support bracket, new twilight, and mock up fork brace with a fender mounted under it. Im not going bother trying to fit a finder in there with the spacing that remains.

put on 1080

[Shtonecb500]

Finished a bunch of small stuff today.

Going to bite the bullet and get some motogadget turn signals and mirrors And probably a bates tail light and it’s all set.

[andy750]

Your bike is looking very good! I cant wait to see what you do with the racks and hard cases - I have been thinking along the same lines. I have the rack but just need to pull the trigger on hard caes or soft luggage.

[Shtonecb500]

Your bike is looking very good! I cant wait to see what you do with the racks and hard cases - I have been thinking along the same lines. I have the rack but just need to pull the trigger on hard caes or soft luggage.

Thank you!

There is a vintage set of leather triumph saddle bags in the shop that I could use. It is all black and chrome so it works with the bike. The only thing I dont like is they don't lock. I want something a little more secure. But I might be able to mount them and come up with another set of boxes that fit the same rack. I'll get some pictures of them. I COULD settle for them and just spring for a nice lock box up top.

[Shtonecb500]

Had a puddle of fuel under my bike so I replaced the rubber puck behind the fuel lever. I mocked up my front fairing and the saddle bag but the bag only with zip ties. I want something a little rugged. But I love the full dressed look, the fairing is very easy to put on and pull off. I did a quick paint job of the emblems with stuff I had around the shop, finished the the seat cover, installed a chrome car trim on the bottom of the seat. The seat cover is nice, a little off center to the left but I’m fine with it. Overall, I love my seat.
I ordered a set of red jewels for my Side covers and a 750 emblem for the electrical side cover.
I put in a finned cover and painted it but haven’t sanded it yet, I have clear coat coming in a couple days. I want to try and get the tank to go back to it’s original shape...otherwise I’m just gonna clear it...or maybe I should blast it and repaint  it and put on some silver stripes on the shoulder....paint them instead of paying 100 bucks for decals.

[Shtonecb500]

Your bike is looking very good! I cant wait to see what you do with the racks and hard cases - I have been thinking along the same lines. I have the rack but just need to pull the trigger on hard caes or soft luggage.

What kind of rack is that?

[Shtonecb500]

Good weather in Michigan the last two days and was able to put about 200 miles on it.  The front brakes still need to be messed with, more spacing and tweaking. The brake power up front feels wonderful. The ride is smooth, the power upgrade is awesome and I think I’ll be able to throw the 750 around similar to the 550, close enough at least. Got it up to 90 on the freeway but it’s been crazy windy here so also difficult to ride. My grandpa is 86 and wanted to see the finished product.

So far the one side of my seat trim wants to keep coming off, just a couple inches of it. I have goodies getting delivered through Monday so just a few more final touches.

[754]

Its looking good.. .. yeah dual disc is good..

[Jimcg]

Your bike really looks good! 👍

/Jim

[Shtonecb500]

Your bike really looks good! 👍

/Jim

thank you!

[Shtonecb500]

Side cover emblems are on and I'm happy I went with the red theme. I just ordered a bates tail light to stick under the battery box for extra visibility....I have a spare amber led turn signal under there just as a running light for now. Going back to a 100/90/18 in the spring to fit a stock fender, the shorty fender must go since it doesn't stop mud or debris from covering my motor and exhaust...I have one of the chopped up front and long in the back front fenders I can use when I reduce the tire size. Installing of a longer kick stand is needed, I found one but it's too long, I'm going to chop it and weld a nice plate on the bottom....I was thinking in the shape of Michigan would be nice. I also found a fender eliminator kit online sold in Canada for the K models, its a hundred bucks and looks nice, I know the one pictured below is on a 550 but the one for 750 didn't have it shown on a bike....basically same thing though. My rear fender is cool but it isn't functional at all...I got into some water and noticed everything had a slick, even my taillight was dirty all the way up to the back of my helmet. #$%* that. That eliminator kit looks to hang a little lower with the included license plate holder and would do a better job protecting, but then again...I have a tire that's sitting out further, so maybe nothing is really gonna save me. What about those huggers I see on sport bikes, do those work well?
 The front fairing is where I want it finally, after installing a fairing on my trip out west on the R80 I knew I had to have one on here.  I'm going to add two more signals on the outside of the fairing that stay with it when it comes off....nice and high on the outsides for good visibility.
I'm thinking Im going to settle for some pelican cases for my bike and side rack.

Another thing, I cracked 3k on this build because of the gas tank for $200 bucks.....so total for this build is $3200 in parts and material not including my time/labor....Sure wish I kept track of how many actual hours spent working on it and not fumbling around the shop.

video of my signals going and general walk around and close up of bike, I just realized I can control the speed of the flash with the flasher I got, Sweet. choose 1080p

[Gurp]

Stunning.
Love the clean simple appeal of the bike.
As a chopper guy I understand the want of a front fender. Makes so many rides much nicer.

[MauiK3]

If you are calling this finished I'd like to nominate you for bike of the month. I'll post over on the bike of the month forum.
Also, kudos on the ZR2, I love mine.
And what is the yellow vintage car in the start up video, very cool!!

[Shtonecb500]

Stunning.
Love the clean simple appeal of the bike.
As a chopper guy I understand the want of a front fender. Makes so many rides much nicer.

Thank you very much Gurp! I don't run a fender on my chopper lol...i dont ride it enough either though.

[Shtonecb500]

If you are calling this finished I'd like to nominate you for bike of the month. I'll post over on the bike of the month forum.
Also, kudos on the ZR2, I love mine.
And what is the yellow vintage car in the start up video, very cool!!

The truck and shop are not mine, the gentleman who is teaching me how to build these bikes is the owner he is 73. The old yellow is a 1930s Dodge that he built by hand many years ago, its really cool....i'll get some more pictures for you.
The bike is safe all the way around and can be out in traffic, so I guess I could say it's completed. I'll only be making minor cosmetic changes to the bike as we chase spring weather. I will be adding luggage racks and travel cases but I cant promise on the timeline of those mods being completed. But yeah, it's done...I'm only going to keep making it look prettier. Thank you for the kind words and even mentioning BOM...
I sure love this forum and these bikes.

[MauiK3]

Click over to the open nominations and accept the nomination.
Nice bike

[Shtonecb500]

Click over to the open nominations and accept the nomination.
Nice bike

i did, thank you.

[RAFster122s]

You can add washers or shims under the mount to get it to align. Once you get the mount vertically (viewed from front) parallel to the rotor the fixed pad will not drag as much, then the other two are on the Z axis looking down from above to control the tilt into the rotor face. When they are right you are golden and then reinstall the spring loaded part to keep the caliper floating in the right spot relative to the face of the disc.

[andy750]

Your bike is looking very good! I cant wait to see what you do with the racks and hard cases - I have been thinking along the same lines. I have the rack but just need to pull the trigger on hard caes or soft luggage.

What kind of rack is that?

The rack was custom made by SOHC member ttr400 (Kevin in South Africa) - its modular so can have an optional rear rack as well.

[Shtonecb500]

select 1080 and dont make it full screen, even on that its crap...time for a new phone.

turn signals and lighting at night, I rode all day today. - i hit the throttle eventually for you worried about volume.

I couldn't believe i was going 80 today, that fairing is just about the best thing....I need one a little wider to cover my hands. a little squeaking here and there from the front but it would always go away. The front forks are way to soft for me, It looks like the refurbished front end route isn't going to cut it.
New internal springs, heavier fluid, new brake lines, new pistons, pucks, and rubber bits.