Topic: Mix Match 750 build - next stage cheap 836 kit

[Stev-o]

Has anyone ever sold an entire bike to finance really fancy #$%* for another bike?

Yes, have done it multiple times.  Sold a Honda to buy and restore my Kawasaki Z1, H2 & H1!   
[I use my "lunch money" to fund my bike collection, not the "family money"]

[Shtonecb500]

i finally chopped the end of my exhaust off, went to the auto store and bought one of those pre made exhaust adapters, found one that slipped right in and that my new muffler could slip right onto. It's very crude right now and the transition between the pipes needs to be finished but its welded on and has some paint to prevent rusting. This is the same cycle x slip on that is on my cb550, now both bikes sound the same, a little more refined when running. I found pictures of a cb550 online with similar looking pipe joint set up, most likely going to remove the entire system, take it up to an exhaust shop and have them make a custom fitted adapter for a cleaner look similar to the 550 pictured below....if my attempt and filling the gap with weld and smoothing it out doesn't work.

the muffler hangs back further than the original pipe did...its crazy how fit, finish, and length throws off EVERYTHING. This is still my favorite header/muffler combo so ill figure out how to make it look good and work in my favor.

the muffler, top box, gas tank trim, engine covers and rotors all kinda share the same brushed steel finish now.

[Gurp]

Looks good man!

[grcamna2]

Very nice tail-trunk also 

[Shtonecb500]

Looks good man!

thanks brotha, hope your mouth is doin alright.

[Shtonecb500]

Very nice tail-trunk also 

Thanks, I love this thing. I just loaded it with pipe wrenches and my makita drills last night, went to a friends house, disassembled something for them and rode back home...I love THAT trunk....great storage great back rest.

[Shtonecb500]

so, the bike is not as quick anymore, is that because i reduced the size of the pipe diameter  to the muffler?


Do I need to re-jet now? I hit the throttle and it just doesnt seems to wanna get on it the way it did before.

Couldn't a muffler shop make smooth bending connecter pipe that could replace the hard cornered mess thats under the bike now?...like how the original yoshi pipes were before they started cheaping out and welding in pieces.

Edit: pipe is loud too.

[seanbarney41]

Exhaust mods can be unpredictable.  Sometimes changes work better than expected, sometimes worse.  I have learned not to mess with exhaost stuff too much.

[MauiK3]

That's a tough one, I stay with stock exhaust to avoid the uncertainty

[Shtonecb500]

two new caliper rebuild kits, new bleeders, new 3AN fittings, new goodridge brake lines, tires and tubes, hooked up the brake switch off the brake lever and eliminated the switch and joint under the headlight, new vesrah pads.
I did not know that the piston has caps that could be removed, so I installed the new piston open end towards the caliper and put it all together. I caught it later and put the caps onto the new pistons and reinstalled.

Installed the torozzi fork brace and the custom fender, its so #$%*ing high there is enough room to fit a stock fender underneath it. It was set up on the 550 and it fits that wheel nice and tight....both 18" front wheels, Why is it so much higher? I even installed the torozzi brace that was on the 550 and the gap was still the same...when installed on the 75 F bike the gap is only about an inch. The finish on the fender goes with the bike so its kinda works and blends in but something else needs to be done.

anyway, the brakes are absolutely amazing, never had brakes this good, the brake light comes on immediately versus the old pressure switch, which needed more travel to trigger the light. The extra rigidity from the fork brace is amazing, alot of the grooves on the freeway on the way home didnt bother me like it did without the brace. im much more confident on this thing.... Sadly, I have a leak coming from one of the bolts on the valve cover, might try to put a copper washer there and see if that stops it...otherwise im in the market for a weld less frame kit.

I dumped the bike on Friday, hit the brake too hard in gravel with the wheel turned and it went down hard right, threw me off into a roll, barely felt anything and had s a soft landing, the bike held up nicely and nothing broke but a mirror needed to be reinstalled. If I did that concrete there would have been damage. Bike stayed running even after dump.

Done with this fairing, looking at a puig or or givi adjustable fairing. it minimal, effective, my buddy has one on his 800 GS and its gives good coverage. What I have on there....idk, I think I want a little less bulk.

[Shtonecb500]

im getting some slight weeping coming from....i think the bleeder valve? Is not a ton but sometimes there will be enough for a drop to come off onto my finger...but nothing dripping or accumulating -

The fairing is the culprit for the mystery noises, vibrations, rattles - all through different RPM's that fairing sounds like #$%* and its less heavy in the front without it. Outside of long road trips I wont be using it anymore. I removed the fairing and top box and took it out for a spin, I love my bike again.

My stock side brake line is about 2 inches too long for my liking, i also didnt consider the orientation of the MC and what side the banjo screws in, I was thinking it was on the side but it comes out of the front....so I want to get different fittings.

my spark plugs looked really nice, nice caramel but there was a ring of black so im thinking I might take the jets down a little, I forgot what I had in there...will check in this thread and see what I put in them last.

fork brace on these bikes is a whole different ball game - talk about more confidence in my handling. I love the way this bike looks when its naked.

Ill update about the oil leak and hopefully have a new fairing  in a week.

this fender doesnt really bother me anymore, i know the gap looks kinda dumb but the finish of the fender blends with the rest of the bike so its a non issue for me. Until I fabricate a very nice fender which will be a combo of a stock 750 fender mounts, cut and spliced to a cb400 stock fender (made for 18" wheel) its gonna remain....then the stock tarozzi can be installed over top of it.



oil leak and brake fluid weeping  - ttyl.

[Shtonecb500]

I left my petcock on the other night, noticed a giant wet spot of gas under my bike, 2 ft wide from the overflow lines. I closed it and didn't go back until today and it was still flooded, I think there was gas on the the oil dipstick, im going to change the oil and pull my plugs, prolly pull the carbs and go through them as well.


edit: bike started today, does that mean im good to go or am i risking running the bike with the oil thats in it?

[Kevin D]

I left my petcock on the other night, noticed a giant wet spot of gas under my bike, 2 ft wide from the overflow lines. I closed it and didn't go back until today and it was still flooded, I think there was gas on the the oil dipstick, im going to change the oil and pull my plugs, prolly pull the carbs and go through them as well.


edit: bike started today, does that mean im good to go or am i risking running the bike with the oil thats in it?

Do you know which of the carbs was the leaker? I numbered the overflow tubes to find the troublemaker.
If the vents are all clear, not blocked, then the fuel would go to the overflow tube, not the crankcase.
I polished the float hinge points with 400? grit on the float, the carb, the pivot pin, and it helped a lot.
Of course the float needles and seats need to be good.
And the tank should be clean.

[Shtonecb500]

I left my petcock on the other night, noticed a giant wet spot of gas under my bike, 2 ft wide from the overflow lines. I closed it and didn't go back until today and it was still flooded, I think there was gas on the the oil dipstick, im going to change the oil and pull my plugs, prolly pull the carbs and go through them as well.


edit: bike started today, does that mean im good to go or am i risking running the bike with the oil thats in it?

Do you know which of the carbs was the leaker? I numbered the overflow tubes to find the troublemaker.
If the vents are all clear, not blocked, then the fuel would go to the overflow tube, not the crankcase.
I polished the float hinge points with 400? grit on the float, the carb, the pivot pin, and it helped a lot.
Of course the float needles and seats need to be good.
And the tank should be clean.

Nah, I should probably put clear lines on there and stop leaving the petcock on.

the intake manifold boots on my bike are #$%*ed, stole the ones off the chopper.

[grcamna2]

I left my petcock on the other night, noticed a giant wet spot of gas under my bike, 2 ft wide from the overflow lines. I closed it and didn't go back until today and it was still flooded, I think there was gas on the the oil dipstick, im going to change the oil and pull my plugs, prolly pull the carbs and go through them as well.


edit: bike started today, does that mean im good to go or am i risking running the bike with the oil thats in it?

Do you know which of the carbs was the leaker? I numbered the overflow tubes to find the troublemaker.
If the vents are all clear, not blocked, then the fuel would go to the overflow tube, not the crankcase.
I polished the float hinge points with 400? grit on the float, the carb, the pivot pin, and it helped a lot.
Of course the float needles and seats need to be good.
And the tank should be clean.

Nah, I should probably put clear lines on there and stop leaving the petcock on.

the intake manifold boots on my bike are #$%*ed, stole the ones off the chopper.

Yeah  you're putting some nice OEM Honda ones on there now 

[Shtonecb500]

the oil level was not any higher, and the oil didnt look like it had gas in it so maybe I didnt flood my engine, changed the oil and filter anyway.

2 and 3 intake rubbers were still in good shape so I left those on there, 1 and 4 were so #$%*ed. When my bike was running the pulsating i could feel on both old rubbers when the bike was running was soooooooooo strong....I cant feel a damn thing with the new ones installed.

my throttle cables are about done, one of the sleeves came completely off...Im getting two new cables about 2 inches longer for each one cause they get a little tight when i turn the handle bars....new cables will measure 36" and 39"

the airbox filter was nice and clean still, i gave it a few pats and put it back in.

I couldn't get into the shop today so i did everything in my garage, I cracked both covers today removing them but you cant really tell, this bike should have everything old and cheap replaced with new and better quality this year.
throttle cables, shocks, and mirrors next. For now, im off to Chicago for a week, wish my bike luck.

[Shtonecb500]

I had so many #$%*ing problems with the bike when i was going through it that i decided to just drive my car to chicago. I got the shop and installed one of those Honda aluminum dyno bolt washers under the screw on my head and it stopped my leak, so thats good. Next I pulled the 115 main jets and replaced it with 110, that seemed to run much better, with the slip n muffler i put on there.... Ill check spark plug and see of the dark sediment at the bottom has gone away. I think I need to adjust my airbox installation, not sure its sealing correctly. I was told the reason I could feel so much of the pulsation on the two outside intake rubbers was because they were prolly K0 rubbers, which were made much thinner than the later ones?

Outside of all the dry rot, that kinda made me feel better because I thought they had only degraded to that point.

When i put the bike back together It would start dying on me, every time i touched one spot on the main harness my neutral light would go off and on, once i got the bike started it would just die..... zero power to the bike, the battery was fully charged and was charging while running when we checked so I pulled everything apart in the front and cleaned up and tightened down my wiring....once it stopped loosing power no matter how i touched the harness i moved on. I took the bike out for a test run and when i rolled back in looked down, my muffler was just about to fall the #$%* off, it was hanging on that last inch of pipe, the support bracket i welded on broke...I almost lost it out on the road.....so i fixed that bracket and put it back on night and tight.....Im running into extra brackets on my swing arm that are there to install wheelie support and stuff...preventing me to run certain length bolts at the passenger peg bolt....dunno if i wanna mod the swinger arm or leave it.

im getting closer to selling everything off to fund the rest of the build out of this bike. I do wanna say, I havent been able to get more than a full season out of tires, no matter the brand I use, Im sure it doesnt help that my bikes are basically exposed to the elements year round....but these shinko tires are soft as #$%*, and after a week on the road they look so damn pale as if they are old tires...but they arent.

nice and sticky tho. I feel like I lost dumped my bike in a couple corners, heavy load int he top box made it feel like the rear tire was gonna slip out...maybe i leaned a little too much.

[grcamna2]

What's that Penton dirt bike ??

[Shtonecb500]

What's that Penton dirt bike ??

some 70s 250 ktm...76/77' i think. never had fluids in it...dont know much else about it. Never seen one in person they are fun to look at.

[Alan F.]

Sorry to hear you're having such a hard time. I've heard Shinko 712s are soft, are those what you've got? I bought Shinko 230s for my K8 but haven't done a damn thing on it in a long time. (Or even thought about it being it's one of my 4 shelved projects)

[Shtonecb500]

Since Beringer black hardware goes really nicely with my bike scheme, I decided to price it out, I also saw another member went with the dual disc set up for his 550 build.

Front MC and lever, clutch cable lever, two calipers with  mounting brackets, two rotors, two replacements clamps fo directr mirror mounting, and two moto gadget classic mirrors

$3760.

Has anyone ever sold an entire bike to finance really fancy #$%* for another bike?

do you think my brakes will still squeal with bringer brakes?

Mine don't squeal at all and the bike stops like a modern R6.  I didn't pay anywhere near that for my twin disc set up.  Of course, Beringer used my bike to develop the mounts and thereafter for promotion.

is it a pain in the ass bleeding them, since its positioned kinda right over the rotor and pads?

[Shtonecb500]

I cut open my wire harness today after messing with the harness for a while tryin to figure out where exactly the issue was. I could touch, press on, or slightly move the section of the harness between the tank and the steering stem and the bike would just die, lose all power ...it was right under the tank at the point where the ignition switch is wired in. I'm guessing the three black wires that splice together in the harness melted when I had the aftermarket ignition switch on the bike.. a grey and brown wire were melted to the black wires but those two wires didn't melt through their casing, i covered all three black wires and tucked it all in, no more power loss no matter how much i move the harness, i'm still getting a sticking headlight and running lights whenever the bikes wants to do so...i think its moisture in the air doing it.

Anyway, i'm looking for some new adjustable levers,  looking at used controls off sport bikes but it all depends on price at the end of the day, new M/C and new push button controls.

Im going to be getting rid of everything i have except for this bike and the 550 and get a 70's bmw r100 for touring, its turning into too much work to make this 750 a touring bike especially when it doesn't even get the best milage anyway.

[Shtonecb500]

removed the illegal mounting position for my license plate and quickly made a bracket with scrap steel, put two bolts through two holes in the fender and called it done...I have it so the tail light should be enough at night to read it, and it should give me some extra protection against water getting thrown up since my fender is bobbed....if thats the case i need to paint this thing....its going to rust in no time.

cleaned up some more wiring, replaced some bolts that were getting rounded off and stripping out, removed the air box, a nut was missing at the top causing the right side of the air box to be loose, I watched hack-a-week and learned about the velocity stack orientation to the air box, that helped, removed this rubber that i had as a seal but it wasn't working well. Spark plugs are a very nice brown now, no black soot at the bottom anymore so im gonna run it how it is...it was pulling nicely on the freeway today. The muffler support broke last week, i fixed it but looking at it i know it will break again.

today i felt my tires slip probably 4-5 times all on that #$%*ty black tar patch they use on the roads, literally every single time my tires were slipping when touching that crap. Everyone at the shop said they feel it with their bikes as well it just sucks cause it chips away at my confidence out there. Everything that could cut my hands today, did cut my hands...some flaking chrome on a fork brace freshly peeled up from the surface sliced me open good, at the hardware store of all places. The ttr400 preload adjusters have been leaking this entire season and I just havent been able to get them to stop weeping.

[RAFster122s]

Well, grafting a conventional R6 front forks on your bike, a la FunJimmy style from his Cafe Interceptor will set you back the cost of a good set of R6 of FZ06 front forks, a set of calipers from an FZ06 or R6 (The FZ06 forks went to the old R6 conventional forks after the R6 went to Upside Down Forks. The nice thing is all of them used the same form mounting. The FZ06 had handlebars so you can drop a FZ06 top triple with handlebars on the R6 forks and then you get the ability to run bars rather than clipons and have a more upright riding position. The hub has to be modified and the axle adapter spacers to run bearings for the R6/FZ06 axle and then you need a dust shield for the all balls tapered steering  neck bearing. throw a CBR600 F4 front rotor to get the spacing for the rotor in the right ballpark. If you stay with 19" front rim you won't have to trim as much off the caliper. You can get superb brakes that way just from running one caliper.
The machine work to core the center out of the stock 550/500 hub is time consuming and hours of work slowly cutting that center back. Then rotor/axle bearing spacers, few spacers for each side for the axle and center tube to keep the forks from compressing too much inward and binding or creating stiction and your dust shield are the machine work which is a major expense. Then ya gotta figure out what to do for a fender to adapt or mold one yourself...
All that will run you about $2k unless you find a smoking deal on a full front end that is not tweaked/bent. The old conventional forks should be less and have modern front brakes and better adjustments possible for tuning the setup.
David

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Don't forget - it is advisable to get a set of new triple trees to restore the front end offset to your stock CB750 - otherwise the front can feel twitchy.