Topic: Mix Match 750 build - next stage cheap 836 kit

[Shtonecb500]

compression test 120-125 on all four and valve clearances were good, the brown wire with white tracer in the headlight bucket looked like it melted at some point but not to any other wires, its the wire coming out of the main harness that everything is plugging into in there.....Im thinking its the culprit to my running lights coming on when i turn the key on. I tried a brand new repop starter switch housing hooked up into the harness and the lights were doing the same with the new switch...so its not that.

[Shtonecb500]

I'm looking at new master cylinders and clutch cable levers. My dream set up as I mentioned before was an all Bringer set up but everything priced out was almost 4 thousand bucks. So, I'm looking to cut cost everywhere else except the beringer caliper and brackets so looking at NISSAN masters. I have a 14mm slanted nissan mc ($161) on my 550 now but haven't run the bike with the new hardware yet, its second hand (ill picture and link it below anyway). I have a speed bleeder banjo double banjo at my MC and that REALLY helps with keeping good pressure at my lever but is a cheap amazon MC. I imagine I wouldn't need the speed bleeder at the MC if I had a better quality MC to begin with...I do like having the bleeder tho...its easy to always ensure a super firm lever. I like the nissan mc with external res. for around $131 bucks.  Clutch levers it seems i've almost settled on a pro taper pro clutch lever xps lever for around $181....there is also the ARC rc8 clutch perch $180...i saw the model below this and in the reviews someone has said they got this....for me i'm looking for adjustable levers so i considered this model, ASV clutch (150-200). The pro taper comes with or without hot start? Is that something i would only consider with certain 750 models that required the clutch to be engaged to start the motor?

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/pro-taper-profile-pro-clutch-perch-xps-lever?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwaHMs-Kk-QIV-_3jBx2bTQ2mEAQYAiABEgLjXfD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068C5T4G/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0068C5T4G&pd_rd_w=gLjXv&content-id=amzn1.sym.ea4fd32b-1001-4f9b-9dd5-0bce86fe8110&pf_rd_p=ea4fd32b-1001-4f9b-9dd5-0bce86fe8110&pf_rd_r=JDPVW6B4TPMX9EYQJ09G&pd_rd_wg=daoa5&pd_rd_r=d4dea9e7-88a9-40af-ae6e-93770c08a089&s=automotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&smid=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFETlIzOEVSQlVXVDYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NzkxNDRWVDlBWUZHWkNJMUImZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDAyMTU1M0g1V0EwSDFSOFVWTCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/22mm-retro-master-cylinder-14mm-black-silver.html?currency=usd&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy7vcqtek-QIV9cmUCR0wHAf-EAQYByABEgLB2vD_BwE

https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/22mm-master-cylinder-14mm-black-black-75339869.html?currency=usd&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy7vcqtek-QIV9cmUCR0wHAf-EAQYBiABEgK6L_D_BwE

for single disc set up with Beringer hardware it would be  $2752
for dual disc Beringer hardware it would be $4184
bringer clutch cable lever is $394
beringer MC $564 with external reservoir
beringer MC $507 with integrated res.

[slikwilli420]

Brembo makes a number of quality options from their cast unit all the way up to their billet radial masters. Im running the vintage cast 16mm on one race bike and 12mm on the other, both really nice. Im looking at their remote res radial as an upgrade for my superbike. The Pro Taper clutch lever is awesome! I love the on-the-fly adjustability as the clutch can change as it gets hot during a race and I can give it a couple clicks on the straight to get the lever where I want.

[Shtonecb500]

Brembo makes a number of quality options from their cast unit all the way up to their billet radial masters. Im running the vintage cast 16mm on one race bike and 12mm on the other, both really nice. Im looking at their remote res radial as an upgrade for my superbike. The Pro Taper clutch lever is awesome! I love the on-the-fly adjustability as the clutch can change as it gets hot during a race and I can give it a couple clicks on the straight to get the lever where I want.

damn, thanks man. There is a brembo PS16 with integrated res for $126-$186 bucks. The only downside is it doesnt look adjustable, but those options come into play at the $230 mark and up. Lots to choose from.
https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/brembo-master-cylinder-ps16-with-reservoir.html?currency=usd&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqZP53vWl-QIVAxLnCh2bCQaWEAQYASABEgJxy_D_BwE#product-reviews

[seanbarney41]

hot start is for big 4 stroke dirt bikes...its only used with a carb that has provisions for it, leans out the mixture further than idle for starting when the motor is really hot...so no, that woin't be of any use on your 750

[Shtonecb500]

hot start is for big 4 stroke dirt bikes...its only used with a carb that has provisions for it, leans out the mixture further than idle for starting when the motor is really hot...so no, that woin't be of any use on your 750

thanks, Sean.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Yes, the Beringer hardware costs and arm and a leg.  I think for normal use, you only need a single disc set up.  Twin discs are overkill.  I have twin discs on my 550 and it is one-finger braking like a modern Yamaha R6.

[RAFster122s]

With big beefy forks single disc has little affect during hard braking, but in our stock front end the twisting is slight on a single disc front end. So, the twin disc front end will balance each other out.
We automatically often make slight corrections for our bikes that we learn over time.
The Berringer setup is really nice but too costly in my opinion.
But you really cannot touch excellent braking inexpensively on our bikes. The stock stainless rotor is not ideal in braking performance and it is heavy.
A single disc Berringer setup is too costly too, IMHO.
But, that said...what is the added safety of being able to brake as well as the car you are following...looking at it from being able to avoid an accident then the cost is not looking quite as bad...

Can Godffrey's thinned drilled stock discs with dual single piston calipers provide similar or adequate improvement?

[Shtonecb500]

With big beefy forks single disc has little affect during hard braking, but in our stock front end the twisting is slight on a single disc front end. So, the twin disc front end will balance each other out.
We automatically often make slight corrections for our bikes that we learn over time.
The Berringer setup is really nice but too costly in my opinion.
But you really cannot touch excellent braking inexpensively on our bikes. The stock stainless rotor is not ideal in braking performance and it is heavy.
A single disc Berringer setup is too costly too, IMHO.
But, that said...what is the added safety of being able to brake as well as the car you are following...looking at it from being able to avoid an accident then the cost is not looking quite as bad...

Can Godffrey's thinned drilled stock discs with dual single piston calipers provide similar or adequate improvement?

My brakes are decent but they squeal so damn much and their performance really changes a lot on the day to day..sometimes super firm but 5-6 miles into the ride a little spongy. If they aren't working right  then my forks are taking on more load than they should and my stability in my stops is affected. If I choose the single side beringer set up with nissan and pro taper route I could have it all done around $1500. 1500 to greatly improve stopping power but maintain the vintage aesthetic or $1500 for bare minimum gsxr/r6 front end swap. My 550 motor is getting rebuilt as we speak and that bike has an entire godffrey set up on it, I should be able to finally try out and test his brake set up in a week or so.

[Godffery]

With big beefy forks single disc has little affect during hard braking, but in our stock front end the twisting is slight on a single disc front end. So, the twin disc front end will balance each other out.
We automatically often make slight corrections for our bikes that we learn over time.
The Berringer setup is really nice but too costly in my opinion.
But you really cannot touch excellent braking inexpensively on our bikes. The stock stainless rotor is not ideal in braking performance and it is heavy.
A single disc Berringer setup is too costly too, IMHO.
But, that said...what is the added safety of being able to brake as well as the car you are following...looking at it from being able to avoid an accident then the cost is not looking quite as bad...

Can Godffery's thinned drilled stock discs with dual single piston calipers provide similar or adequate improvement?

My brakes are decent but they squeal so damn much and their performance really changes a lot on the day to day..sometimes super firm but 5-6 miles into the ride a little spongy. If they aren't working right  then my forks are taking on more load than they should and my stability in my stops is affected. If I choose the single side beringer set up with nissan and pro taper route I could have it all done around $1500. 1500 to greatly improve stopping power but maintain the vintage aesthetic or $1500 for bare minimum gsxr/r6 front end swap. My 550 motor is getting rebuilt as we speak and that bike has an entire godffery's set up on it, I should be able to finally try out and test his brake set up in a week or so.

With the varying braking conditions your describing, I'm thinking the Brake adjustment Bolt, Nut & Spring, might be a factor?  If the adjustment is not exactly right, and checked regularly, it will cause one of the pads to drag slightly or leave too much of a gap.  I have found that the best overall solution is to remove the adjuster completely, allowing the caliper to free float and self adjust on it's own.  With this option, you will want to make sure that there is no side tension on the Brake Hose, that would pull the Caliper to the left or right, so you'll want the Caliper to rest comfortably centered over the Rotor.
 To do that, it might require a little fiddling with the bend on the hose (with stock metal to rubber hose) or how you tighten the fitting (with braided Stainless lines)
 As for the squeal; If the adjustment issue has been dealt with, and the Pads have been sanded to remove any glazing, and the Rotors are free of any oils or Pad deposited, then my Anti-Squeal shims might do the trick for you.

[Shtonecb500]

With big beefy forks single disc has little affect during hard braking, but in our stock front end the twisting is slight on a single disc front end. So, the twin disc front end will balance each other out.
We automatically often make slight corrections for our bikes that we learn over time.
The Berringer setup is really nice but too costly in my opinion.
But you really cannot touch excellent braking inexpensively on our bikes. The stock stainless rotor is not ideal in braking performance and it is heavy.
A single disc Berringer setup is too costly too, IMHO.
But, that said...what is the added safety of being able to brake as well as the car you are following...looking at it from being able to avoid an accident then the cost is not looking quite as bad...

Can Godffery's thinned drilled stock discs with dual single piston calipers provide similar or adequate improvement?

My brakes are decent but they squeal so damn much and their performance really changes a lot on the day to day..sometimes super firm but 5-6 miles into the ride a little spongy. If they aren't working right  then my forks are taking on more load than they should and my stability in my stops is affected. If I choose the single side beringer set up with nissan and pro taper route I could have it all done around $1500. 1500 to greatly improve stopping power but maintain the vintage aesthetic or $1500 for bare minimum gsxr/r6 front end swap. My 550 motor is getting rebuilt as we speak and that bike has an entire godffery's set up on it, I should be able to finally try out and test his brake set up in a week or so.

With the varying braking conditions your describing, I'm thinking the Brake adjustment Bolt, Nut & Spring, might be a factor?  If the adjustment is not exactly right, and checked regularly, it will cause one of the pads to drag slightly or leave too much of a gap.  I have found that the best overall solution is to remove the adjuster completely, allowing the caliper to free float and self adjust on it's own.  With this option, you will want to make sure that there is no side tension on the Brake Hose, that would pull the Caliper to the left or right, so you'll want the Caliper to rest comfortably centered over the Rotor.
 To do that, it might require a little fiddling with the bend on the hose (with stock metal to rubber hose) or how you tighten the fitting (with braided Stainless lines)
 As for the squeal; If the adjustment issue has been dealt with, and the Pads have been sanded to remove any glazing, and the Rotors are free of any oils or Pad deposited, then my Anti-Squeal shims might do the trick for you.

Ive been running floating calipers from day one actually, I just recently added the adjuster bolts maybe 2 weeks ago but those need proper adjustment and I want new screws before I really install them. The brake line thing stuck out to me, I zip tied them in and on the fork brace after what you said because while riding I do notice them bowing outward and flexing a lot...I cant see them on the outside of my fork while riding anymore. I've been spraying my rotors down with brake cleaner recently lol...it helps a little but your shims are next on my list....shims and proper adjuster bolts and after that I will have tried everything you can and will prolly put them up for sale and put the money towards aftermarket system.

got caught in the rain on 696 yesterday and today my oil gauge is fogged up with water inside, so im gonna pull it and clean it out again and seal it up properly. There was a little rust in there i wanted out too. The bike did great on the freeway going to chicago and back, I made it to kalamazoo yesterday on the first tank with the reserve on...was going about 75-80 the entire time, 10mph-15mph head wing in both directions which #$%*ing sucks.

[RAFster122s]

Have you checked the pads for being square to the rotor face with feeler gauges? If the pad is not squared up it is going to oscillate much easier. That oscillation is the source of the noise.

When did you last deglaze your pads and give the rotors a scrubbing with brake cleaner and a ScotchBrite?

[Shtonecb500]

Have you checked the pads for being square to the rotor face with feeler gauges? If the pad is not squared up it is going to oscillate much easier. That oscillation is the source of the noise.

When did you last deglaze your pads and give the rotors a scrubbing with brake cleaner and a ScotchBrite?

not with a feeler gauge i havent.

[Shtonecb500]

i took my oil pressure gauge apart to clean it, added sealant around to water proof it. When i was done i wanted the rim to fit tighter and put pliers on the edge and cracked the glass lens....good job ash.

I found another jaguar stewart warner gauge that reads 100 psi but the guy wants almost 100 bucks for it. Found one that reads 80 psi for 30 bucks, figured I would just take the lens from that one and maybe the needle if swapping the needle doesn't #$%* with he functionality of the gauge too much.

Can we run 80psi gauge on our motors, whats the lowest we can go, if 80 is ok ill just run this new one.

edit: bike died again but i know its because of my #$%*ed wire harness lol...trying to make through the season without buying a new harness because i have an m unit for this bike but wanna take my time installing that #$%*er.

Once i get my 550 back the 750 should be going under its final operation and overhaul....i hope the frame kits are finished and delivered in a few months so I can do some top end work on it as well.

modify and combine a cb400 and cb750 stock fender to get back to a stock fender look and maintain an un modified torozzi fork brace, im combining the two to close the gap around the 18" front wheel. 
top end refresh once the frame kits are sent out
re paint all body work because Ive scratched everything up figuring out the rack for my top box
new seat cover because i ripped up mine figuring out the rack for the top box
new rear spokes since I bent two with the jaws on the tire changing machine, need to replace them before a compromised spoke breaks.
matching side covers, maybe, not priority.
fix the fairing where it broke because i dropped the bike so a little fiberglass work
new 10" screen for the fairing
remove bar end mirrors
add new barrel grips


If selling some other bikes go well then all the brake upgrade options ive been talking about as well.

This is just to keep me on track and fresh

[Alan F.]

You can cut your frame to do your top end before your frame kit arrives if you need to, measurements are in one of the frame kit threads.

And I've got that other fairing if you want it for shipping costs. It's not perfect, but it's not broken either.

[RAFster122s]

If your oil pressure is above 80 it will just peg the gauge above 80psi, usually without any harm resulting to the gauge…
Fwiw

[Shtonecb500]

You can cut your frame to do your top end before your frame kit arrives if you need to, measurements are in one of the frame kit threads.

And I've got that other fairing if you want it for shipping costs. It's not perfect, but it's not broken either.

Thats an idea that ill be more comfortable with after the 550 is up. Ill keep that in mind and may take you up on that, thank you.

[Shtonecb500]

If your oil pressure is above 80 it will just peg the gauge above 80psi, usually without any harm resulting to the gauge…
Fwiw

OK, Thanks for in the information. This new gauge is in much better shape and it has the hose and connections on there so I could possibly run it up inside the fairing by the speedo and tach

Im almost positive they are the exact same gauge, mine has a "100" on the gauge face, but its off center, the letters almost get cut off by the edge of the gauge body...so its not like they made a new gauge for the 100psi, they just added numbers to the face plate.


edit: before and after, i love this bike.

[Shtonecb500]

Have you checked the pads for being square to the rotor face with feeler gauges? If the pad is not squared up it is going to oscillate much easier. That oscillation is the source of the noise.

When did you last deglaze your pads and give the rotors a scrubbing with brake cleaner and a ScotchBrite?

i played around with my adjuster screws and got the stationary pucks spaced properly, they were ok but its better now, nice even gap about  cards width....i probably havent deglazed my rotor since the beginning of the season, Spraying my rotors with brake cleaner helps the most...my brakes are silent for the first 5-6 miles at least! lol.

[Shtonecb500]

I ordered another stewart warner 80LB. gauge form ebay and the guy was just trying to scam, the shipping info was created but nothing was ever sent out. Once I sent a message a week later asking him to confirm it was sent and the tracking was acting up, he sent some super vague message and I got a refund in 30 min. Luckily, I found another one out of Texas and this puppy is brand new and looks good...this busted one can go to the K1.. The two threaded posts need to be cut down flush.

edit: there is a glass repair place down the road, I wonder if they would replace that for me.

edit:
i took the really deep gauge and took the glass out of it and replaced the 100lb face..it worked just fine. Now i have a 100lb and two 80lb gauges.


rode to chicago, rolled 171 miles before flipping to reserve so with the wind at my back and the right conditions I can clear 200 miles per tank....AWESOME. A positive wire coming off my solenoid soldered to an inline blade fuse came apart but I didnt notice that the solder had broken and was shorting out, everytime i hit a bump the bike would try to die, died on me at the first toll, threatened over the bridge and died a couple times on lakeshore. I found the source of the short the next day and fixed it.

I love that muffler but its pretty #$%*ing loud on the freeway and I don't love the way it sounds at certain low RPMs while riding....a little too raspy maybe for street use.

I cant wait to eliminate these bar ends.

Im realizing that I have this heavy ass truck lite head light, a shoei fairing and i use the inside like a dash and store stuff up there....so the front end of my bike is carrying prolly another 20lbs? I need to build up my front end and stop acting like its not over loaded.

[Shtonecb500]

Sheesh, Just found the super build maximum website for honda cb 750 - a swing arm, 4-4 pipes, and aluminum gas tank are on my christmas list. I cant unsee those parts now....

$4,487 before delivery, though.

[Godffery]

Sheesh, Just found the super build maximum website for honda cb 750 - a swing arm, 4-4 pipes, and aluminum gas tank are on my christmas list. I cant unsee those parts now....

$4,487 before delivery, though.

Link Please...!   

[Shtonecb500]

Sheesh, Just found the super build maximum website for honda cb 750 - a swing arm, 4-4 pipes, and aluminum gas tank are on my christmas list. I cant unsee those parts now....

$4,487 before delivery, though.

Link Please...!   

https://japan.webike.net/HONDA/CB750/SUPER+BUILD+Maximum/278/1885/mb/

https://japan.webike.net/products/21313137.html
like 1300-1500 per part...i think the exhaust is worth 1300 usd.
here is how they sound, im sure alot has to do with the set up their running and tuning...also looks like they are running no baffle in those.

here are all three on a bike

[Godffery]

 Aha Yes, I've actually bought from them.  Those swingarms are awesome, and almost got that exhaust but ended up getting a hydro-formed set from Moonpie.co.uk
 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgs5YSeMIds/

[seanbarney41]

mmmm...time to sell some stockers and buy some parts!