Author Topic: “Milkstone Remover” for Gas Tanks and Rust Removal. (Read 6589 times)

BenelliSEI · « **on:** April 29, 2019, 01:51:01 PM »

Seen a few discussions on cleaning out gas tanks, here’s my 2 cents worth...... read this years ago, tried it and it’s my “go to solution”.

First problem with an old tank is really getting out the old gas. Methyl Alcohol will remove old, dried up gas. Commonly sold as HEET, it makes water soluble in gas, but also melts out the dried crud. Slosh it around, it does a good job. Dump it all, dries quickly. Next, visit any good FARM SUPPLY STORE and ask for Stearns Milkstone Remover. Milkstone Remover (MSR) is about 75% phosphoric acid. Typically diluted and used for cleaning dairy equipment. Last gallon I bought was a different brand, labeled “Super Dicoloid”. The guys on the counter will know, about $20.

I have a large Rubbermaid container (with a lid). It easily holds eight gallons of water. Add the MSR to the water (NOT the other way around). From that brew, fill the tank to the brim, and leave it somewhere warm for 24 hours. After you pour it back into the tub (I keep it for years), you will be amazed at the results. Want it cleaner? Do it again. The tub is great, you can hang any old bits in for a good cleaning too (after removing dirt an grease). It works for ages and when it loses it’s effectiveness, dilute it with more water, and fertilize your lawn...... no stink and it doesn’t hurt Chrome. If you get any on your paint, just dilute with water and wash off.

When finished, I rinse out the gas tank with warm water and then shake a mix of HEET and two stroke oil around, to stop any flash rusting. I never use a tank liner. If your tank has a leak, fix it properly.

Scott S · « **Reply #1 on:** April 29, 2019, 04:48:55 PM »

How aggressive is it on paint? I've done The Works toilet bowl cleaner method many times and it's very effective too. It's also primarily phosphoric acid. Hafta be careful with a paint job you want to keep, though. And I also neutralize it with a water/baking soda mixture before drying completely with denatured alcohol, air and a heat gun, then use Marvel Mystery Oil or the like to coat the tank.

Your method sounds very similar and I like that it can be reused.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #2 on:** April 30, 2019, 07:48:17 AM »

I keep a bucket of fresh water handy, when filling a tank, then rinse it off well. After emptying, I rinse the inside and then give the exterior a good wash and dry. Never had any damage to paint.
My shop is parts of a larger portion farm building. I leave the tub on a shelf in the main building. There is always something hanging in it to clean. The one I ‘m using is two years old now, time for a change..........

Don R · « **Reply #3 on:** April 30, 2019, 08:44:09 AM »

I've been using a flashlight battery powered bilge pump to move the fuel, thinner and acid around. It's a lot easier/safer than pouring a heavy container of acid. I also use alcohol, just a pint or so of painters alcohol in a couple doses to remove water, blow dry with the outlet of a shop vac and next a little gas with 2 stroke oil. I also try to avoid liner but recently used the blue northern liner due to pitting. So far so good.

PeWe · « **Reply #4 on:** April 30, 2019, 09:12:19 AM »

Remove petcock and plug holes before the cleaning, right?
Fuel cap with seal OK, or this must go too?

Cover fill hole with plastic film secured with a rubber strap... as I did when using vinegar

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #5 on:** April 30, 2019, 04:03:58 PM »

PeWe...... actually I often leave the petcock in, then remove it and clean it up afterwards. Nothing appears to get harmed!

brewsky · « **Reply #6 on:** May 01, 2019, 04:16:39 AM »

The Works I have is 20% hydrochloric acid, which is very strong stuff and eats metal in a hurry!
It will de-rust bolts and other parts quickly, but I would be afraid to use it in a good tank.
I use it to pickle metal just before zinc plating.
I took one tank to the local radiator shop for de-rusting and told them not to worry about the paint, since it was going to be re-painted anyway. They did a super good job for $30.....(took the paint to bare metal also)….when I asked the guy what they used, he said he didn't know what it was,..... "just some kind of powder"

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #7 on:** May 01, 2019, 07:41:16 AM »

I like the Milkstone Remover because it’s inexpensive, safe and easy to dispose of......

Dolomite · « **Reply #8 on:** May 01, 2019, 10:06:43 AM »

If the tank was to be repainted, could the entire thing be submerged in the solution in a large enough container?

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #9 on:** May 01, 2019, 08:42:36 PM »

I’ve done it and it very little to the paint. There were a few small blister that enlarged when the rust disappeared...... any flaky paint with rust underneath lifted off.

MoMo · « **Reply #10 on:** May 01, 2019, 09:38:55 PM »

always good to see different approaches. for some reason i've never had much luck at cleaning, derusting a tank....Larry

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #11 on:** May 02, 2019, 06:53:30 AM »

MoMo..... agree! Try this one. Relatively safe, easy disposal and can be used over and over. Cheap too.

Dolomite · « **Reply #12 on:** May 02, 2019, 06:54:49 AM »

Will it remove anything else in there? Like a failed kreme liner

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #13 on:** May 02, 2019, 01:24:45 PM »

Dolomite...... not really sure, it only seems to attack rust. You may need something stronger. If you are prepared to loose your paint, take it to a rad shop. My local place did an outstanding job on a tank I was planning to paint anyways.....

Dolomite · « **Reply #14 on:** May 02, 2019, 01:52:18 PM »

Hm, good idea. Thanks!

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #15 on:** May 03, 2019, 05:03:52 AM »

Quote from: BenelliSEI on April 29, 2019, 01:51:01 PM

Add the MSR to the water (NOT the other way around).

Is that the old “add acid to water and not water to acid” thing? I’m not convinced that’s actually true. Cody’s Lab did tests a few years ago and he barely got any reaction. Only with acid that was almost 350°F and adding cold water to it got it to erupt out of the container. But it looked like the water instantly boiled because it was dropped into a very hot liquid. That could have been done with hot oil, didn’t have to be acid.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #16 on:** May 03, 2019, 08:55:37 AM »

The instructions on the bottle are clear. Ad the concentrate to water........ never an issue and this stuff doesn’t even stink. Remember it’s used (much diluted) to clean dairy milking equipment.......

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #17 on:** May 03, 2019, 09:25:20 AM »

Quote from: BenelliSEI on May 03, 2019, 08:55:37 AM

The instructions on the bottle are clear. Ad the concentrate to water........ never an issue and this stuff doesn’t even stink. Remember it’s used (much diluted) to clean dairy milking equipment.......

I totally believe it is an effective product. I’m just commenting on the acid to water thing. I don’t think that’s as dangerous as warning labels and chemistry teachers say it is. Next tank I need to derust, hopefully soon, I will check this stuff out for sure. Thanks for sharing.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #18 on:** May 04, 2019, 04:40:46 PM »

Dave...... you’ll be pleased! Make a big tub of it and use it to hang just about anything you want cleaned up. I have three mover blades in mine right now!

News:

Author Topic: “Milkstone Remover” for Gas Tanks and Rust Removal. (Read 6589 times)