Topic: ENGINE OIL FOR CB550 F2

[Robois57]

Hi All.
Does anyone have any experience of using synthetic oil or this a no no for a bike of this age ?.
Many thanks.
Regards.
Ian

[bryanj]

Sitting back with tea and cookies(not allowed the beer since heart attack)

[Deltarider]

Milk in first?

[TwoTired]

Hi All.
Does anyone have any experience of using synthetic oil or this a no no for a bike of this age ?.
Many thanks.
Regards.
Ian

Couldn't do a search of oil threads?

Synthetic oil is fine for our bikes.   It's the additive package or how it is blended than can cause issues in wet clutch applications.

Use JASO - MA, or oil labeled for motorcycle use, or even Diesel oil.  Full synthetic or synthetic blends are all ok, given proper labeling.

Cheers,

[jlh3rd]

I can tell you that i tried synthetic in my 75 550 F back in the late 90's when the bike had about 7,000 miles on it. It is an all original, unrestored bike. Mobile 1. I wanted to use synthetic, i'm a believer in it. But the head gasket, which was not seeping before, began to weep oil. It stopped when i switched back to conventional, diesel, rotella. It did not affect the clutch.
Certainly does not hurt to try it.

[PeWe]

If using synthetic or any other oil, it must be made for wet clutch.
I have read bad comments about Synthetics when people has used wrong viscosity (both cars and bikes) or car oil in a bike with wet clutch. That can't go well.....

My CB750 K6 get Red Line 20W-50.  Esther Synth
- Really good oil, the best gearbox feeling and it has loads of zinc and phospourous (ZDDP).
This oil quality a must for a modified engine with $$$$ invested.

My stock CB750 K2 runs on Spectro Heavy Duty oil 20W-50 (mineral). It has also high amount of ZDDP
Spectro has semi synth too. I'll see if it will get a bottle of Red Line at next change to update to semi synth.

Both these oils have also lower viscosity versions as 10W-40 as your CB550 need, right? Correct viscosity is important.

[Robois57]

Thanks for the sensible reply’s not sure about the tea analogy and yes I did do an oil search before I asked. Cheers me dears

[bryanj]

The tea analogy is because of the extremely long and varied post on oil use already on the forum!!!
My own opinion is synthetic is not worth the extra cost as the change interval is NOT extended

[Robois57]

Thanks for the info and the explanation of the tea analogy, but like I said you put the word oil into the search and it comes up with pages of stuff. I think I will stick with what uncle Honda recommends.

[Tracksnblades1]

57,

While I can only speak for myself, I do believe most here may have raised the bar a little above uncle Honda's original recommendations....

👍

[TwoTired]

I don't think you can find SE rated oil anymore.  That standard set by SAE has been superceded with at least ten more blend "steps" ratings.  These rating were updated for modern cars with catalytic converters and roller type cams, to name just a couple of mods that allowed a change in oil specifications.
In short, when Honda made the recommendation, oil blends for cars worked fine for the motorcycle.  Not so today.

That's why the JASO-MA test standard, using a motorcycle specific, or even Diesel oil, is a better choice.

Personally I like a synthetic blend, as when you are stuck in traffic on a hot day, you can exceed the temperature withstand of at least some of the oil, saving the motor, as synthetic has a higher temperature withstand capability.

Yes, it cost more, and you still have the same change interval (if it hasn't overheated).  But, mechanical overhaul is still more expensive and less convenient than using a more expensive oil.

Cheers,

[Tracksnblades1]

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

A Canadian mechanical engineer's take on today's oil. He is testing high zinc oil, low zinc oils, David Vizards's pick, the new extreme pressure oils (calcium petroleum sulfonate)? Last updated 5/12/19. Adding zinc (zddp) additives to all types of oil. Tests results show improvements in some and ruining others. What you need to know before adding anything to a well blended oil.

It's a lengthy read for that oil and chemical engineer lurking within, Bryan J suggests Tea now.. Actual tests are at the end, but you'll miss out on the testing standards and..........The results, are similar to the shower room, may surprise some and upset others. How does your oil measure up when tested...?

Flat tappet requirements (oil service performance classifications) are covered under API designations including  SA-SN for gasoline engines. API diesel oil designations including CA-CK4 and FA4. SAE establishes the uniform viscosity standards for engine oils. ASME provides certification and accreditation of products subjected to uniform testing standards.

Our now retired family oil engineer is quick to quip "pretty much anything blended today is better than what we were blending with 30 year old technology".

Choose Well...😇

[Tracksnblades1]

Some of 540s findings.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

In a nut shell, there are a lot of great blends of oil availability today.

Winners of 5w-30 oil wear test exceeding 100,000 psig failure pressure without any extra additives added.
1.   5w-30 Amsoil sig series.         134,352.   0w-20 Amsoil sig ser 134,840 is best no additive oil.
2.   5w-30 Renewable Lubricants.  130.436  super high performance passenger car oil
3.   0w-40 Mobil 1 synthetic.        127,221. European car formula
4.   5w-30 Renewable lubricants    125,250  super high performance bio/sun extra
5.   5w-30 Valoline Full synthetic.  123,470  high mileage with max life tech.
6.   5w-30 Pentosin Pento.            122,711 Super high performance lll gas/diesel Germany
7.   5w-30  MPI Thirty K synthetic  120,562. Gas/diesel
8.   0w-30 Gulf Competition High.  119,789. Performance racing oil ester based synthetic
9.   5w-30 Mobil 1 Adv Full Sun.    117,799
10. 5w-30 pennzoil ultra API Sm   115,612 psig.  Thermal breakdown 280*.
11. 5W30 Mobil 1 ESP Formula.     113,836  (Emission System Protection), for diesel/gas
12. 5W30 Quaker State                 113,377  Ultimate Durability, API SN, GM dexos
13. 5W30 Pennzoil Euro “AV”         112,644 psig European Formula, for diesel and gas engi
14. 5w-30 motul 300v ester           112,464 psig.   Thermal breakdown 265*.
15. 5W30 Mag 1, FMX,                  111,622 European Formula,  gas/diesel

Winners of 10w-30 oil wear test exceeding 100,000 psig failure pressure without any extra additives added.
1. 10w-30 Lucas racing oil only.                                  106,505 psig.
2. 10w-30 Vavoline conventional off road racing oil.      103,846 psig.
3. 10w-30 Vavoline conventional race oil silver bottle.   103,505 psig.
4. 10w-30 Vavoline synthetic race oil black bottle.        101,309 psig.

Winners when mixed with recommended rates of Prolong additive.
1.  5w-30 Pennzoil ultra synthetic  API SN           (92,569 psig) mixed yields 136,658 psig.
2.  5w-30 Castrol GTX conventional                    (95,392 psig) mixed yields 130,366 psig.
3.  10w-30 Pennzoil conventional yellow bottle.   (76,989 psig) mixed yields 117,028 psig.

15w-40 Diesel oils excluding (Amsoil) don't break 85,000 psig before failures. Some 10w-30 diesel only oils approach upper 90k pressures. Amsoil diesel oils are well above the rest. Old and new Rotella T 71,000-72,000psig respectively. Some believe street flat tappet need wear index of over 90,000 psig and race flat tappet with race spring pressure needing wear indexes of 100,000psig and up. Diesels have incorporated roller lifters or hard insert flat tappets and large surface area bearings for a very long time.

Heavier SAE viscosities don't fair as well either, excepting, 15W50 Aeroshell W, Piston Aircraft engine oil, semi-synthetic = 104,332

Choose well....👍

I wonder what Honda recommends in their air-cooled engine today...?
10w-30...? With the same rods and mains suggested clearance ranges.....?