Author Topic: Air Pods -> Air Box. Now only runs on choke. Advice/tips sought. '74 CB550  (Read 1400 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline uncle_fester

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 51
I recently ditched the air pods for an air box on my '74 CB550. The decision was mainly due to loss of power between 4000-6000 RPM. Otherwise, they were acceptable. At the recommendation of another forum member, I found an appropriate OEM air box with the K&N adapter. I added new boots and a new air filter. The isolator boots between the carb and the intake manifold are also relatively new.

The jet configuration on my pods was 40 slow, 105 main, and 4th needle position (factory). For the new air box, I went with 40 slow, 100 main, and 5th needle position (one richer). The jets came from 4into1, and even though the 40's were the same, I installed the new ones. I only bought new 40s because I couldn't recall what was in there originally. The air screw is 1.5 turns out.

When I first started it up with the choke on, it started up fairly easily. It sounds good. If I slowly let off the choke after warm, it stays alive until about 80% open, then dies. I tried giving it more throttle, but that is not the solution. Below is a video of the issue with the engine already warm.


I'm seeking advice/tips to help me troubleshoot. Seems like maybe there's a vacuum leak somewhere? Can I assume upstream of the choke? I'm thinking I may put the old 40 slow jets in tomorrow. Is there anything special I need to do to seal up the new boots between the carbs and the air box?

Really scratching my head. Everything seems clean and tight.

On a side note, getting the carbs in and out with the air box is REALLY tight. It feels hard on the boots. Any tips on removing and re-installing the carb body?

Thanks in advance.

Offline Scott S

  • Global Moderator
  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *****
  • Posts: 8,252
 You are closing the choke butterflies when it died. You're operating the choke backwards.
'71 CB500 K0
'17 Triumph Street Scrambler
'81 Yamaha XS650

Offline Scott S

  • Global Moderator
  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *****
  • Posts: 8,252
 And if you went back (close) to stock, why did you go richer on the needles? Why not leave it stock?

 And I find it easier to leave the two outer boots off when installing the carbs. They can be squeezed in once the carbs are on. Just be sure you line up the tab on the boot with the dot on the air box.
'71 CB500 K0
'17 Triumph Street Scrambler
'81 Yamaha XS650

Offline uncle_fester

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 51
And if you went back (close) to stock, why did you go richer on the needles? Why not leave it stock?

 And I find it easier to leave the two outer boots off when installing the carbs. They can be squeezed in once the carbs are on. Just be sure you line up the tab on the boot with the dot on the air box.

Wow! I feel embarrassed. Well, that solves that. Thank you.

I went one step richer on the needle to start because another forum member here ran the same setup and was running richer jets. I thought it'd be easy enough to switch back.

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,802
Idled well with original slow jets.  You changed them.

Post a picture of both old and new slow jets.   I suspect they are made differently in the emulsion tube area.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline uncle_fester

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 51

Needle clip is 4th position from tip. 5th is more lean.


Really?! Everywhere I've read has the grooves referenced from the TOP of the needle, not the tip. Adjusting the clip towards the top adjusts leaner, and adjusting the clip towards the tip makes it richer.

Am I incorrect here?

Idled well with original slow jets.  You changed them.

Post a picture of both old and new slow jets.   I suspect they are made differently in the emulsion tube area.

Cheers,

By "original", I meant previous. They "original" and new are reproductions from 4into1. When I first got the bike, it did not run and was incredibly dirty in the carbs. I ended up replacing all of the brass parts and gaskets.

Offline uncle_fester

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 51
I just went out in the garage and started it up from cold. Started up in a couple seconds with choke on. Ran really smooth transitioning off of choke. Good throttle response after it warmed up and settled well to idle after adjusting the idle screw a little. It seems really good so far.

I had to order some manometer fluid to do a carb sync. I want to get that dialed in before testing on the road, so it'll be about a week for me to figure out what needs to be adjusted from the current configuration.