Author Topic: 79' CB650 (674) Project with a 550 tank and CBR front end. (Read 14798 times)

Sigmund · « **Reply #25 on:** June 20, 2019, 02:02:26 PM »

How does the m-unit do remote stuff? I thought that it was only Bluetooth? It would have thought something would need GPS and WiFi to do remote "pings" for location?
It all sounds good though.

Sigmund · « **Reply #26 on:** June 20, 2019, 04:51:29 PM »

This is where the engine is up to. All new bearings, crank/con rod/transmission ( yes even the output shaft) /new o rings, seals, primary chain, cam chain. Nos bolts where available. Cleaned cases about 10 times in various ways!
I have the barrels in for boring to approx 62mm, and the head for nos valve guides to be pressed in and honed, re cut valve seats, decked etc.
I have been told new valve springs are worth while? Mine are within spec but I know that they become weaker from 1000's of heat cycles...

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #27 on:** June 20, 2019, 05:36:34 PM »

Looks very nice. Two things I really like about the 650, aside from the extra power, is the subtraction of the plug seal in front of the output shaft seal and the addition of the primary chain tensioner and oiler.

I have Kibblewhite valve springs. I don’t know enough to make those decisions though, that was MRieck’s doing. But I DO know enough to trust him.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #28 on:** June 20, 2019, 05:39:41 PM »

I’m sure it’ll be fine and I’m just a nervous Nancy, but the starter grounds through the body. I bet the mounting bolts will be enough for that, but because I’m paranoid I would remove some of the paint/powder coat (forget what you have there) from the bosses.

Sigmund · « **Reply #29 on:** June 20, 2019, 06:13:01 PM »

Quote from: DaveBarbier on June 20, 2019, 05:36:34 PM

I have Kibblewhite valve springs. I don’t know enough to make those decisions though, that was MRieck’s doing. But I DO know enough to trust him.

Kibblewhite would be for the extra lift of the cam? I asked Mike about a few things for the head here is the reply:
"I would port the head, use a big bore kit and stick with a stock cam. I would replace the springs and more than likely the valves will need to be replaced. Fresh valve job and a milling the head would complete the package. This set up would give you great torque, extra horsepower and excellent valve train reliability. It would dust any CB750 except for something really built."

I have all new valves, guides and seats to be re-cut. I might ask if he means new oem or something like Kibblewhite.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #30 on:** June 20, 2019, 07:19:53 PM »

Quote from: Sigmund on June 20, 2019, 06:13:01 PM

Quote from: DaveBarbier on June 20, 2019, 05:36:34 PM

I have Kibblewhite valve springs. I don’t know enough to make those decisions though, that was MRieck’s doing. But I DO know enough to trust him.

Kibblewhite would be for the extra lift of the cam? I asked Mike about a few things for the head here is the reply:
"I would port the head, use a big bore kit and stick with a stock cam. I would replace the springs and more than likely the valves will need to be replaced. Fresh valve job and a milling the head would complete the package. This set up would give you great torque, extra horsepower and excellent valve train reliability. It would dust any CB750 except for something really built."

I have all new valves, guides and seats to be re-cut. I might ask if he means new oem or something like Kibblewhite.

Yeah, I have the Megacycle 126-20 cam which is more aggressive than the stock 650. I don’t know how much stiffer the kibblewhite springs are but they’re enough to prevent valve float and I possibly flutter.

That seems like good advice from Mike. But I just don’t know enough about that stuff to respond. All I say when Mike says things like that to me is “yes, I do want that.”

Decide on carbs?

Sigmund · « **Reply #31 on:** June 20, 2019, 08:30:07 PM »

Big props to Dynoman. They sent the wrong head gasket and fixed the mistake by express posting the correct .40" (1mm).

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Sigmund · « **Reply #32 on:** June 20, 2019, 09:39:55 PM »

Dave, I have the original carbs all cleaned up. Lots of NOS bits. Polished, re-plated or painted every bit. I hope I can get them tuned because I spent so long on them! They are plenty big enough. Similar to the CB750 carbs that Cam is using.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #33 on:** June 21, 2019, 04:17:24 AM »

Oh right, I forgot that the earlier years had PD carbs. And accelerator pump, right? Those look nice, I bet you’ll have no problem with the tune, I mean no abnormal problems, just the typical tune process frustrations

Nicklopic · « **Reply #34 on:** June 21, 2019, 08:24:48 PM »

Factory valve springs are still available new. Partzilla has them for example and Mike got a set through his connect for my head I believe. The kibblewhite springs if he went that route would probably be cb550 springs with some work to the seats to make them work. He told me about that before I found out the OEM springs are still available

Sigmund · « **Reply #35 on:** June 21, 2019, 08:47:25 PM »

Quote from: Nicklopic on June 21, 2019, 08:24:48 PM

Factory valve springs are still available new. Partzilla has them for example and Mike got a set through his connect for my head I believe. The kibblewhite springs if he went that route would probably be cb550 springs with some work to the seats to make them work. He told me about that before I found out the OEM springs are still available

Yeah, I found them there from partzilla. They are well priced too. I was not too sure if new he ment factory or kibblewhite springs though, so thanks Nick for the info! I'll get some ordered. Cheers, Tim

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Sigmund · « **Reply #36 on:** July 05, 2019, 11:25:01 PM »

I have been working on the frame, smoothing out welds etc. As you can see from the pics, we had the side brackets like they did in Europe. The US had the more cruiser position because of the whole Harley thing I guess

I'm trying to work out where the rear sets should sit. First pic is standard (good with low bars) Second pic is about 5cm back (clip-ons) I put the original seat on, and it feels fine there. I might wait until I make the lower cafe seat and have the engine in before drilling and painting the brackets.... Probably want to have the final wheels on too.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Sigmund · « **Reply #37 on:** July 05, 2019, 11:39:16 PM »

I would also like longer rear shocks. Hmmmm, The Dohc cb750 ones are too long. I'm thinking just 20mm longer so the chain clears the swingarm. I'll have to see if custom lengths are easy to order... The Ikon factory is 5 mins away. While they are known to be quality, people complain (Here in Australia) about the spring rates/damping etc, and they are over priced. E.g. Hagons are $300 and Ikon's are $500. If you buy them in the US then you have a good $$$ conversion.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Sigmund · « **Reply #38 on:** July 06, 2019, 02:30:23 AM »

Grabbed a DOHC CB750 rear shock off one I have.... Checked trail. Roughly 118mm with std rear shocks ( too much- would be stable but be slow to turn in) and 105mm with the DOHC shocks, which is perfect. Still, it's the chain clearing that could be a problem. Gives a nice stance like the cognito CB550 with the tail raising. I might consider 17" front and rear to avoid a $1000 custom triple tree.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #39 on:** July 06, 2019, 04:30:40 AM »

I can’t speak to which shocks or wheels to get but as far as frame design, here in the US the early 650s had a more traditional style like the 550s but the later models had the cruiser type frame. So what youve got jibes with what we’ve got.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #40 on:** July 06, 2019, 04:36:37 AM »

Oh, and any idea what tire sizes you’re going with? Are you going to keep the fat front and get a fatter rear? I have slightly larger than the stock 550 sizes on my 674. 100 front 110 rear. Just saying that big tires suck hp away, but I see that one could argue they like the look.

Sigmund · « **Reply #41 on:** July 06, 2019, 06:28:08 AM »

Quote from: DaveBarbier on July 06, 2019, 04:30:40 AM

I can’t speak to which shocks or wheels to get but as far as frame design, here in the US the early 650s had a more traditional style like the 550s but the later models had the cruiser type frame. So what youve got jibes with what we’ve got.

Yeah,they got even worse later, but the 79' was heading towards the cruiser style.
US Model:
*The bars were higher.
*No bolt on alloy side brackets, just welded on steel ones.
*Footpegs were way further forward and therefore a different rear brake setup.
*17" rear rim instead of 18" and reverse comstars.
*Stepped seat
*Different rear tail light etc.

Sigmund · « **Reply #42 on:** July 06, 2019, 06:48:55 AM »

Quote from: DaveBarbier on July 06, 2019, 04:36:37 AM

Oh, and any idea what tire sizes you’re going with? Are you going to keep the fat front and get a fatter rear? I have slightly larger than the stock 550 sizes on my 674. 100 front 110 rear. Just saying that big tires suck hp away, but I see that one could argue they like the look.

I think I know... I'm going spokes, so any size I want.
Was thinking:
18x2.5 front rim. (100/90)
18x3.5 rear. (130/80)
I might consider 17" front and rear though, to get the trail right. I would try to keep them mid width. Wide rims on these ol' girls would not help anything.

Sigmund · « **Reply #43 on:** July 29, 2019, 04:37:42 AM »

I finally (5 week wait) got the call to say my barrels are bored for the 62mm pistons and the head work is complete.

I'll get to work on getting the barrels on, and the head back together this weekend. I have all new valves and springs to go into the head.

Another unplanned purchase:
I buckled to the superficial features of the m-unit blue and the app. I enjoy using tech like that and will use it without an ignition switch. *Android user here*
It will also make wiring easy and quick.
I also got some m-blaze pins for the rear of the bike. I do like the m-blaze bar end indicators but they are overpriced, and I have CBR clip-ons where the internal weights make me question if I can use bar end lights or mirrors.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #44 on:** July 29, 2019, 10:34:58 AM »

With the Munit you can rewire all your switching control wiring to very light 28 gauge as that wire will only be handling small power requirements to tell the Munit to turn on or off a device. Look up some of calj's builds as he uses the Munit and has very clean wiring. What are you going to use for your ignition system? Keep stock or go with a modified Dyna?
David

Sigmund · « **Reply #45 on:** July 29, 2019, 01:21:59 PM »

Quote from: RAF122S on July 29, 2019, 10:34:58 AM

With the Munit you can rewire all your switching control wiring to very light 28 gauge as that wire will only be handling small power requirements to tell the Munit to turn on or off a device. Look up some of calj's builds as he uses the Munit and has very clean wiring. What are you going to use for your ignition system? Keep stock or go with a modified Dyna?
David

Yes, nice light gauge back to the m-unit will be neat. I can use any left over cable from electronics jobs I have done.
I'll use the std ignition first, and then look at modifying a dyna 2000 I think. I want to know what difference it makes.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

CBJoe · « **Reply #46 on:** July 29, 2019, 02:22:35 PM »

Quote from: Sigmund on July 29, 2019, 01:21:59 PM

Quote from: RAF122S on July 29, 2019, 10:34:58 AM
With the Munit you can rewire all your switching control wiring to very light 28 gauge as that wire will only be handling small power requirements to tell the Munit to turn on or off a device. Look up some of calj's builds as he uses the Munit and has very clean wiring. What are you going to use for your ignition system? Keep stock or go with a modified Dyna?
David
Yes, nice light gauge back to the m-unit will be neat. I can use any left over cable from electronics jobs I have done.
I'll use the std ignition first, and then look at modifying a dyna 2000 I think. I want to know what difference it makes.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Build is looking good Sigmund. I also am going the M-Unit Blue route on my 750. Hoping to start laying out wiring later this week. I did the M-Blaze Ice Signals. Really hurt to pay for them but they look sweet.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #47 on:** July 29, 2019, 03:39:06 PM »

Good to hear that machining is done. If I were you I’d still check ring end gap when you get all the parts in.

I might be modifying a Dyna2000 for a member so if I get to it before you I’ll let you know if I find anything remarkable.

Sigmund · « **Reply #48 on:** August 02, 2019, 03:12:26 AM »

Got the parts back from machining. It seems that there was some air bubbles in one of the cast sleeves and after measuring. I will need another one to press in and bore out. Anyone have any sleeves they can sell me? There is nothing here in Australia

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #49 on:** August 02, 2019, 04:36:15 AM »

Interesting, I haven’t heard anyone boring into a casting void on a sleeve yet. Might be worth looking for a wrecked 650 for parts.

Maybe this is a bad idea but can it be brazed? John Britten brazed his cracked sleeve on his race bike in the pits, haha. Held up.

News:

Author Topic: 79' CB650 (674) Project with a 550 tank and CBR front end. (Read 14798 times)