I had a chance to pop the carbs off and check a few things... slides only go in one way in these carbs... for sure. To answer a few of the questions, the afm screws are now at about a half turn open but I've tried all sorts of positions, still haven't checked the pipe temp as I have the carbs off now, points gap is at 13 as per spec. I've now attempted setting timing with a timing gun but I read that I should have the rpm set to 900 to 1000 for this... the engine doesn't like that low speed. I was getting a lot of exces arcing on the 1-4 point so I changed the condenser back to the old one and it went away (very minimal sparking is expected right?). I should say that I first swapped it to the 2-3 point and the arcing moved too. New condenser is made in Japan and has Daichi stamped on it. Now to put the carbs back on and check temps.
Slides can go in 2 ways (right & backwards).......As Hondaman has indicated Mirrored Carbs can s
wap slides effectively allowing the cutaway part of the slide to face the wrong way. Carbs 1&2 have the slide orientation pins and the adjustment screws on the left side. The mirror image carbs 3&4 have their slide pins and adjustment screws on the right side. As you read HondaMan's post, he indicated the 657b carbs he recently rebuilt had the slides reversed, not believing or knowing that was possible....
If you're not picturing this mentally, take a picture of the slides from the air cleaner side and engine side and post them....
You can check your initial (static) timing without starting it...
Did it idle @ 900-1000 rpm before rebuilding...?
Stock camshaft..?
All of the carb slide pins are on the right hand side. I'll post a pic this afternoon. I didn't have to picture it mentally, I pulled them out and looked.
I have done static timing .... bang on. The gap I have listed as 0.012 to 0.014 and I'm there.
I only started it up a couple times before the rebuild started a few years ago. It ran poorly but had been sitting a long time before that. I have no idea if this was a stock cam shafts. I wasn't going to do an engine rebild until I cleaned the engine and found that the chain had punched through the case.
I was told to check that all cylinder's are hot and they are. After bench syncing the carbs , I did have to lower the idle.
I just can't wrap my head around how, with all of the recommended cab settings that I posted as a starting point , can this bike draw that much fuel into the engine that fast? It was probably over 2 years ago that I dropped the cam shaft in... please tell me it only goes in one way.
Thanks for the suggestions so far... thanks hondaman. I'll swap the original points back in and give that a go. 1000rpm is hard to achieve and it's no good setting dynamic timing when she's running poorly. I will double check the points gaps and static timing again.... light out at the f marks...
