Topic: Painters, advice. Please help.

[Davez134]

I painted this bike for a friend of mine, my first legitimate paint job. He trailered it out of town for a ride and on the way back the tie down loop weld failed and the bike fell over, denting the tank. I got the dent out, I’m just curious what are the correct steps for fixing this paint? The stripe is painted on. I have the original paint colors still too. The order I did it was white primer, orange pearl color, stripe, then 2 part clear. I could tell him take it to a shop, but I like a challenge.



Here’s the thread, where I started the paint:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,165796.msg1951583.html#msg1951583
Thanks for looking!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tracksnblades1]

Looks like it was perfect before the mishap.....

I'd start from scratch so everything has the same build up....

[Mark1976]

It'll really depend on what type of finish is already on and whether or not its been clear coated. Some finishes will blend better than others. As stated above, the center section will be the area to blend to or make a break to blend on a crown line. If its a lacquer or an enamel, you be surprised how well they can be blended and faded to match.. Urethane's, I've personally never had as much luck with blending, I normally would paint an entire panel rather than blend and looked for the best paint color and texture or finish match. But having said all that, you do have a body line (or crown) to blend and fade to. Keep you body work and primer confined to the smallest possible area that allows proper feathering and it'll leave you with more area to blend or fade with. Then clear coat as needed..
Just my 2 cents.

[Davez134]

Thanks for the replies guys. Blending from the center makes sense. I used the eastwood 2k clear in their aerosol can. Seems extremely durable. I’m not sure if it was an enamel or urethane. I tried to look it up, but can’t find any info. As far as removing the clear/base coat, sand it all off? Stripper?

[Mark1976]

   Work from the damaged area out, keep in mind that its a repair. (That's what i understand your intent is) Your never going to be able to remove the clear coat in a effective and consistant manner, its clear. Work the just the damaged area, during this process you can determine how much area will be needed to sand and properly feather back your primer and original top coats. Don't strip anything. Once your done with that, figure out how you want to reproduce the graphic, before or after base coat. Normally I do paintable graphics 1st (unless its a adhesive type graphic, they go on just before clear coat) then base coat and color, finishing with clear coat. You have the crown of the center section to use as your blending point. If your using a aerosol can, blending will be much less involved. If your using a gun theres a few more steps but more likely a successful blend and fade.

[Davez134]

Thanks guys, this helps a lot. I’m gonna give it a go and start soon.

[nvr2old]

I agree with a lot of what's already been said.  Keep your repair area to as small a section as possible.  Contain your primer to the one side that is damaged.  When it comes time to redo the base coat, blend the new orange into the old especially since you still have the color and it's been so soon since it was done.  It should match perfectly.  Lay out and respray the stripe.  I would also use 600 wet and dry to scuff the entire tank down and do a complete respray of the clear.  Urethane doesn't blend worth a crap.  They "envelope" whatever you're spraying.  All in all it should be a fairly easy repair with the skills you've already shown.

[gto_ron]

You've received some good advice so far. 

If it was me, I'd just strip the whole tank and shoot it again.  With automobile paint jobs: I repair, then shoot the entire panel rather than try to work around a repair.  As mentioned previously, urethane generally leaves a 'repair line' around the reworked area.  Good luck

[Patrick]

I gotta go with Ron. I have tried several times, without success, to blend away a seam between old and new paint. It's liable to always show. If you take a patch down to bare metal, you have to have some kind of break to hide the seam. Like a corner, or the edge of a plate.

Patrick