Topic: High idle after basic maintenance and carb set back to stock

[Tracksnblades1]

Thanks for the insight guys. I think my bench sync fell short at the slider height adjustment. I think the issue is with the sliders and them being fully seated prior to adding the slider arms that hold the throttle cable and after. Without the bracket connected the slides close fully with the bracket on I cannot get the slides to fully seat closed without running out of threads on the slide. This issue I'm assuming is attached to me being able to drop the idle if I press down on the slides manually which shoots back up once released. I'm going to undue the 10mm nut with the bracket attached to the carbs and see how low I can get the slides to go down while still being able to secure the 10mm and 17mm securing nuts after. Once I have that figured out I will use the advice you guys have given me to get all the carbs synced to each other along with the idle screw being engaged. Does the carb bracket go bad? it's a relatively simple design and I've seen in the manual they mention greasing the ends I don't see anything that would cause it to not allow me to start from a completely closed carb and work my way up as needed.

Banana 🍌,

Have you found what is making your slides shoot back up...?

Does it idle correctly with both throttle cables disconnected...?

There is a spring in your overcross eccentric ajustment. I can't see your throttle overcross adjustment that far out. But removing both cables would be the start in the process of elimination.

[TwoTired]

Unless grossly out of tune, it is the center electrode insulator looking into the plugs that tell much of the story about cylinder mixtures.  A side view doesn't help us much about assessing the state of tune.

Also, unless you run at a specific throttle setting, plug deposits reflect all throttle settings and jet contributions.  This clouds the determination if the main is lean and the slide needle is rich or vice versa.   Plugs should self clean when the mixtures are correct.   No deposits means too lean, soot means too rich.  The cleaning temps get too cool as you look at the insulator getting closer to the spark plug body connecting to the head/threads, as that is where cooling occurs from the combustion chamber.

"Plug chop" procedures have clean plugs read after only one throttle setting run.

Cheers,

[bananaseat]

@Tracksandblades1
I was able to sort out the slide issue after re-adjusting the slides again using the paperclip method and the steps outlined here.

@twotired
The photos weren't the best to me it looks like cylinders 1&2 were running rich while 3&4 look ok. These plugs were brand new and replaced along with the caps when other general maintenance things were done. Going back to the video here https://imgur.com/9k0Q77Z sliders 1&2 were open more compared to 3&4. I'm going to play around with the bike again to address the hard start issue as everything else is ok. Once she's up and running I don't have the high idle issue anymore when warmed up it's just getting her to start and idle on her own now . Thanks again everyone for your advice and help with trying to pinpoint the issues I know this is all over the place but I truly appreciate all the help you've given me thus far.

[TwoTired]

Best idle is achieved via a vacuum sync.  Mechanical sync doesn't allow for differences in individual cylinder efficiency.

Cheers,