Topic: Any tips for installing cylinder studs?

[Scott]

G’day

So I’m getting closer to putting my 1000cc engine together and thought I’d plan ahead a little.

I have heavy duty studs from Cycle X but no stud installation tool in my tool box.

Is there an installation tool that is the best to use or is there any tips I should follow?

I looked on Cycle X “tips page” and saw about re torque the cylinder head, but not stud installation.

Thanks for your time
Scott

[turboguzzi]

i simply screw on the free end a long nut, leaving some 6-7 threads free at the top, then screw there a  bolt that locks the nut in place. torque the stud down through the bolt head and then release the bolt and nut.

[MRieck]

 I set them by height and use red Loctite on the threads going into the upper case. It doesn't matter if they bottom as the Loctite holds them in place when tightening the stud nuts.
After installing the studs I place a cylinder and head on the upper case and lightly tighten stud nuts. This centers and aligns the studs. If you need to remove the studs heat them up and they come easily.

[PeWe]

Make a test first without pistons so you can see how deep all studs can be tightened and if the thread heights are OK for the nuts. Gaskets in.
I tightened mine until bottom. K6 with Billet block got Kibblewhite studs, K2 APE studs. I am sure some case thread holes, head, cyl, gasket combo can't bottom out the studs.

Verify which side going down
Long threaded end must be installed in the crankcase.

It worked fine on my builds. My K6 got std forged collar nuts, 13mm socket,  with thin washers to get room under the cam holders.
I did not dare to use Loctite. The inner 2 stud holes are oil transport up to the head. No exceeded use of Loctite here. Good idea to clean and blow free after. Maybe better to suck it out....

I installed my billet block with the 2 or 4 inner studs, all other after it has entered the pistons. It was a little bit tight with engine in frame to enter the cylinder. With all studs in, maybe not.

See Mike's billet block thread where I posted my build

[MRieck]

Make a test first without pistons so you can see how deep all studs can be tightened and if the thread heights are OK for the nuts. Gaskets in.
I tightened mine until bottom. K6 with Billet block got Kibblewhite studs, K2 APE studs. I am sure some case thread holes, head, cyl, gasket combo can't bottom out the studs.

Verify which side going down
Long threaded end must be installed in the crankcase.

It worked fine on my builds. My K6 got std forged collar nuts, 13mm socket,  with thin washers to get room under the cam holders.
I did not dare to use Loctite. The inner 2 stud holes are oil transport up to the head. No exceeded use of Loctite here. Good idea to clean and blow free after. Maybe better to suck it out....

I installed my billet block with the 2 or 4 inner studs, all other after it has entered the pistons. It was a little bit tight with engine in frame to enter the cylinder. With all studs in, maybe not.

See Mike's billet block thread where I posted my build

That's a very good point Per. On those 2 studs I apply the Loctite to the threaded holes rather than the stud. The Loctite will travel up the stud as you screw it in with normal application and will block the oil feed holes. I always blow compressed air through the main oil galley throughout the build to insure the passages are clear....I highly recommend it.

[MRieck]

I read about using a locking agent for studs years ago in a Smokey Yunick book. He explained how there is always play between the stud threads and block (case) threads. This is true for studs and head bolts. the Loctite eliminates this play. I know the Kibblewhite studs introduce a slight interference fit as they are screwed into the case which lends itself to what Yunick was talking about. I believe getting the stud height correct is very important whether it be case studs or cylinder studs.
 Like I said earlier....heat will melt the Loctite and they aren't hard to remove. The Loctite also prevents the formation of corrosion between the stud threads and the case holes.

[PeWe]

If a stud or more can be tighten very deep, not enough thread length for head nut which I have read about on this forum.
So I can understand that Loctite is needed to ensure correct thread length. I had luck with my HD studs on my builds.

I'm sure that you Mike has done a high number of engine builds and know the good/best method by experience and avoid extra job.
Need to lift the cylinder once it finally has entered all 4 pistons and do it again, especially with XA rings, No thanks!

[MRieck]

If a stud or more can be tighten very deep, not enough thread length for head nut which I have read about on this forum.
So I can understand that Loctite is needed to ensure correct thread length. I had luck with my HD studs on my builds.

I'm sure that you Mike has done a high number of engine builds and know the good/best method by experience and avoid extra job.
Need to lift the cylinder once it finally has entered all 4 pistons and do it again, especially with XA rings, No thanks! :)

XA ring pack (especially oil rails) are challenging. Worst rings I have ever installed were on those RC triple engines. Incredibly thick with a ton of wall pressure.....By the third engine I discovered the best way to install them that took only a few minutes.