Topic: Throttle, getting progressively harder to open, and close.

[Don R]

 Just a thought, I had a rack of carbs that were stuck and had been pried open from the top by a PO. The foot at the top of the slide was bent causing the rod to be misaligned and at different heights. You probably would have noticed it by now but might be of help to someone else.

[pjlogue]

1976cb750f836, have you checked and cleaned the adjuster rod feet inside the body of the carb where it attaches to the slide? 

This is a somewhat critical area often overlooked,  The adjuster rod "foot" sits inside a bracket with a washer and spring.  The washer, spring and foot need to be clean and very smooth in order to move freely.  This allows the foot end of the rod to easily position itself in a centered position with relation to the hole in the round carb top.  Any binding in the foot causes the rod to bind against the round carb top grommet.  When the grommet wears water can get down into the foot area and start rusting.  I finally figured this out and polished the foot bottom where it contacts the bracket, polished the bracket bottom where it contacts the foot, carefully filed the inside top of the bracket where the washer sits against the bracket, honed the washer so it was extremely smooth and made sure the spring ends didn't have any sharp edges.  I then greased the foot-spring-washer-bracket.  When I put everything together I raised the throttle gang and loosened all the rings holding the carb tops on and re-tightened the rings.  Lightly silicone greased the grommets where the adjuster rods go through the tops and put everything back together on the bike.  My throttle is as smooth as glass now and I have a much weaker return spring (I got the spring at Lowes) throttle snaps back nice lie it should.  Made a world of difference in riding.  I leave about a 1/32" of free play in the throttle cables which allows for heat expansion so they don't bind. 

The downside to taking the adjuster rods out of the carbs is you have to remove the rod tops which screws up any sync you had.  The upside is with clean feet on the rods and everything polished doing a sync is easier.  I found I didn't have to tweak each adjustment as much as I did when the feet were dirty. 

-P.

[1976cb750f836]

PJ, that's an excellent idea. I've had mine apart many times, when dialing in the carbs after the 836 and cams. I got to where I could install those 2 little pesky phillips screws blind folded,lol.
I'll do your recommended clean and polish tonight.
Thanks 

[Bankerdanny]

I am having this problem too on my trip. I have blisters even with gloves from working the throttle and I am worried I am going to break a throttle cable in the middle of nowhere.  If it can hold together a couple more days I am going to look for cables at the swap meet at Mid-Ohio to toss in my bags for the ride home Sunday.

[seanbarney41]

HUh...?...I wonder if this is somehow some kind of F thing?

[Bankerdanny]

HUh...?...I wonder if this is somehow some kind of F thing?

Before I head out for Columbus tomorrow I am going to check the routing. Fortunately the next couple days of riding are short.

[1976cb750f836]

Ok, rod feet polished,  spring ends deburred on 600 gt paper, little washer also polished, square rod end polished. Their was trash under some of the feet, like grit. Everything back together,  but still on table, got late last night, and I quit. Mounting today. They do feel some smoother on bench. Found the top grommets on eBay, stupid cheep. Going to hold off getting them. Report back after test!

[1976cb750f836]

Found another spring, lighter than stock, but stiffer than my hardware spring.
Bench synced with drill bit, test rode, I think I'm done. Brought it back in for a gauge sync.
They were damn close, only had to move 2 of them, less than 1/8 turn. I'd always thought a drill bit sync got them close, this conforms that! If your in a hurry to get back on road, a bit sync will do. Now for a 30 min or longer ride to c if hand still cramps. Thanks to all for post.