Topic: Top cam cover removal.

[maxheadflow]

If you're going to pull the motor, you might want to check out the C-hook lifting things members have come up with:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,58210.msg1684742.html#msg1684742

Thanks. Another thing I understand is good is to remove some of the exhaust studs.

[754]

Oh yes and slip hose over the ones you leave in.

[maxheadflow]

Got the motor out of the frame.. The references to the C bracket were good.  As usual mine is a little different mainly because of the material on hand that I could use.    I removed all the studs.   Note the high tech engine stand. My bracket has a handlebar on it so it can be steered.

[Terry in Australia]

Wow, that is a big arsed rig! The benefits of having a frame kit (regardless of design/material used) is that with the top rails removed, it is way easier to remove/replace the engine, or do a top end rebuild in place. Slipping the engine in, or out, is very easy.

Saturday Swamp Rat engine re-install by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

Saturday Swamp Rat engine re-install 2 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

[PeWe]

I'm sure a frame kit will get a 2:nd thought when this engine is back in and a close future issue need to lift valve cover and eventual more. Or just a question that will pop-up when trying to sleep... "did I add all 4 o-rings under the cam holders?"
I'm sure we are many with similar background with a rework soon after a complete restore without frame kit! Guys that rides our bikes
No need to drain oil and remove a lot of stuff for a simple cam change, head fix (that brings carbs and exhasut off) and maybe replace cylinder with pistons too.

[Terry in Australia]

Yep, as much as I don't like cutting a frame, on a CB750 it's necessary just to do routine maintenance like replacing a leaky gasket. If you buy Frank or Scotts kit (or make your own using my example) you have the advantage of being able to carry out simple routine maintenance without dropping the oil and filter, disconnecting wiring, removing carbs, airbox, exhaust, chain, engine mounting hardware, footpegs, etc.

And if you're a tad more mechanically apt, you can do a lot more. I cut my frame initially so I could in-seize my rusty cylinder block, which was relatively simple with the top frame rails removed. And the good thing is that the surgery is reversible, unlike with the weld in kits.

[maxheadflow]

So what does the weld in klit look like?

[evinrude7]

Thanks guys,

You convinced me to pull the motor. 

call a friend and buy him a few beers after.  it's not all that difficult for two to get the motor out or in. 

[PeWe]

So what does the weld in klit look like?

Search for Gordon's frame kit. He has his own webpage selling toolkits too. He is also a member here, Gordon.

I have his kit on the shelf. I planned to use it on my K2 but frame was already cut in the 80"s or even earlier with cuts that had to be cut again.
I did not have any welding equipment on hand either so I contacted Frank and bought his kit.
 I have Frank's kit installed earlier on my K6. Just to clamp on. I had to make own triangular brackets since the done holes did not match.

[scottly]

So what does the weld in klit look like?

Search for Gordon's frame kit. He has his own webpage selling toolkits too. He is also a member here, Gordon.

No, his member name is not Gordon; Gordon is a moderator.
In my opinion, the Gordon kit has a design flaw, with the piece of threaded rod that connects the front end of the tubes: since they are not locked at each end, they do nothing as far as adding rigidity. They are more expensive, much heavier, and require welding, preferably TIG.

[Terry in Australia]

I installed one in a K2 frame, I just MIG'd it in and it was fine, but as well made as it is, I don't like that you can't change it back to original easily. I don't understand the relevance of the threaded portion, either.

[disco]

I have both Gordon & Frank/Scottly kits in various 750’s.

The Gordon kit is more expensive to install, as I wouldn’t attempt welding it in myself. Not unless I wanted welds that look like snot 😂. The Frank kit on other hand, is simple DIY.

However, what I do like about the Gordon kit is that it’s a bit more impervious to water entering the frame, once it is installed. It’s basically sealed.

Whenever I have the Frank kit apart I touch up the cuts with etch primer & spray the inside of frame with Lanotec or similar. Luckily I don’t ride unless the weather is good.

[PeWe]

I guess we all with Frank's weldless kit can plug the tube ends to stop moisture to enter.

Spray some antitrust stuff inside first. Oil, wax and other thin rust protection spray from auto shops.

Here about the Gordon kit
http://www.rrrtoolsolutions.com/honda-cb750-frame-kit.php

[Terry in Australia]

I wouldn't worry about rust inside the top frame rails, my bike leaned against a shed outside for 10 years with no cover and didn't rust out, so the possibility that somehow moisture will find it's way into the top rails (and not be cooked by engine heat) and damage it now is remote.

Terry's Swamp Rat CB750 28 Apr 2019 9 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

[slikwilli420]

Why not just use interlocking tube clamps like this?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi-180111-kit?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl99RL0M0rZl6La4M4hEYmfO0_jSosFU_XwWQRPCEiKmtHSizoMvoTfkaAha_EALw_wcB

The ones in the link are the wrong size, but they are readily available in the size we need, look professional, and do not reduce rigidity at all.

[754]

 Well first of all , that is not supporting anyone on the forum..  of course that must not be a requirement .

However any kit requiring welding, things can go wrong. One is, the welder, can screw up, it require planning
 And careful positioning  , or the frame  section may be difficult or even impossible to remove.. and I can't imagine the fun of having to break the tacks, and repositioning.
 You have to be careful with squareness of cuts, and the amount removed.
 Any welded kit takes increased time to install, and the added expense of time or paying the welder..
 Plus it's major work to try to ever reverse it and go back to stock, in an unnoticeable manner.

 The Gordon kit had 4 or more pages of instructions, mine used one picture, and you can install it with a hacksaw, file and Allen wrenches.   Some of The welded kits weigh around 4 lbs, mine weighs under 500 grams in the box ready to ship.
 

[maxheadflow]

Thanks guys,

You convinced me to pull the motor. 

call a friend and buy him a few beers after.  it's not all that difficult for two to get the motor out or in.

Message 29. I made the hook.. It came out pretty easy.

[754]

 I would like to take this time , to thank all the members who supported my efforts and now Scottly , and bought the kits. It really made a difference to me at that time of my life. .  I never had much of an annual income, and selling the kits , allowed me to spend more time riding and working on my bikes.. it made a real difference to me.
 I got Scottly to take over for a while, and I got to say  I have been riding less.
 But it looks like the star's may be aligning soon, and I may have my machines back in a working situation soon, I HOPE.  I have a few other parts I used to make and maybe a new thing or two. Plus I want to finish some bikes I have half built.
 Just wanted to thank the forum members, it has been fun and most of the time enrichening.

[maxheadflow]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=140654.0

Thanks for the additional info, guys.   The weld in kit looks a little over built and I'd question the adjuster, stud and nut. Why not simple plugs on both ends.  Not sure 2 bolts are needed. It seems to me that the major stress on the tube is tension / compression and some twisting.  I would think that single 10mm socket head screws at each joint would be good. 

Anyway the plan is to fix the motor and replace without modifying the frame or much cleanup for that matter.  Get everything running well, and disassemble for cleanup.  At that time, I might modify the frame.

[Stev-o]

+1 to Franks frame kit.

This K3 came to me with a cut frame and pipes installed as a "frame kit"...



Frame kit installed...



Never know it's there unless you pull the tank.  Ride is solid as can be...

[maxheadflow]

Why not just use interlocking tube clamps like this?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi-180111-kit?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl99RL0M0rZl6La4M4hEYmfO0_jSosFU_XwWQRPCEiKmtHSizoMvoTfkaAha_EALw_wcB

The ones in the link are the wrong size, but they are readily available in the size we need, look professional, and do not reduce rigidity at all.

Here is the right size..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi-180109-kit.

[Terry in Australia]

Hmmnn, for $128 for 4 of them, plus everything else needed to install them, welding cost etc, Frank/Scott's kits would be cheaper. Or you could make your own.

[maxheadflow]

+1 to Franks frame kit.

This K3 came to me with a cut frame and pipes installed as a "frame kit"...

Snipped pic

Frame kit installed...

Snipped pic

Never know it's there unless you pull the tank.  Ride is solid as can be...

Well, I don't have any issue with the setup you show for strength.  It's a lot more complicated than weld in pieces to RnR the part.  I'd figure to do the section by with only 6 screws, (SHCS).  Make them all the same size screws so they come out quickly.

BTW, with those wheels, your not pushing that chassis all that hard.   Does look like you got after market rear shocks tho.

[PeWe]

+1 to Franks frame kit.

This K3 came to me with a cut frame and pipes installed as a "frame kit"...

Wow! That was a swamp bike as Terry's Swamp Rat project. A lot of tubing missing there.
The weldless frame kit is cost-effective and very easy install. Cut frame install it on a complete bike, no problem. Only thing needed is tank off before using a tiger saw.

[754]

On the aluminum clamps  you only turn the bolts about a turn each, then slide the Aluminum clamp toward the brace on the removeable section, no bolts or washers to drop, then pull the 2 top straps and it all lifts out.