Topic: Newbie with some height, exhaust & intended use questions

[tdskip]

Good morning - looking at first gen CB750s and my searching for info keeps finding you guys so it seemed like a good place to ask for some coaching on these bikes.

I'm a casual rider, mix of around town and generally under 200 miles a weekend touring. I'm an OK rider, have been riding a long time but not that many total miles and I'm not going to scrape the side pegs or get a wheel of the ground. So with that in mind I was hoping to get some feedback on this bike and how I plan to use it.

1) Ride height: I'm 5'10" with a 32 inseam and I want to make sure I can get my feet down. I was expecting to be on my toes more but I wasn't, which is good, but I'm thinking it might be because the bike I am looking at was already lowered. Could I ask you guys to take a look as see what you see here?

2) This bike has a custom exhaust and rear brake pedal actually hits the exhaust when you try to use it - obviously unsafe. I am assuming I need to replace the exhaust with one with a proper profile and I wanted to ask if there is a system that you all would recommend that balances good sound quality (but not too loud) and price.

3) Intended use: most of my riding will be based on SoCal running around between towns which will include some highway use, after that there will be town riding. I do intend to do modest touring on this for a couple hundred miles over a weekend (I know, I know, I need to ride it further). I have a 1974 CB360 I got running and use around town that is a great bike but obviously a lot smaller. I'm a touch concerned that the CB750, while great on the highways, might be a bit much for running around and a CB550 might split the difference. I rode the CB750 in the picture around a storage lot at low speeds and it was OK to handle, so I don't think it's too much bike for me but I want to be clear headed about how it will fit with my intended use.

Thanks!

[bryanj]

Def been lowered, 550 is lower to start with

[ekpent]

  Do you care to disclose how much the seller is asking for that bike. I have a nickname already,Flat Black Betty. Check under the tank to make sure the frame tubes are still there. I like to pull the countershaft sprocket cover off to make sure the cases haven't been holed and repaired there.  Always fun to check the frame and engine vin just to see if its a match of the same year or a marriage.
  I don't see any lowering blocks on the rear shocks.

[Bankerdanny]

That bike looks stock height to me. The seat has been modified or replaced, so it could be a bit lower than stock. I haven't noticed that my 750 is much higher off the ground than my 550's were (I'm 6-4), the big difference has been the relationship between the seat and pegs and the distance from the seat to the bars. My 750F just feels more spacious.

[tdskip]

Thanks gentlemen, appreciate the responses and coaching.

The bike felt manageable for my first time on it, suspension is tired however so it was a bit sloppy. I know I can tweak the shock length (avoiding lowering bliocks) and/or the seat height as needed.

I doubt I will regret having a bit more space on the bike compared to a 550, good point.

Any thoughts on dealing with that exhaust? I know the "right" way to address it is to pull it all off and put a correct on one, but wondering if I could unbolt the right side pipes and heat/bend them down so I can clear the brake pedal?

@ekpent - under $3,000 but needs tires and shocks and and and... Runs well however and under 15,000 miles.

Thanks!

[beemerbum]

  Do you care to disclose how much the seller is asking for that bike. I have a nickname already,Flat Black Betty. Check under the tank to make sure the frame tubes are still there. I like to pull the countershaft sprocket cover off to make sure the cases haven't been holed and repaired there.  Always fun to check the frame and engine vin just to see if its a match or marriage.
  I don't see any lowering blocks on the rear shocks.

  Do you care to disclose how much the seller is asking for that bike. I have a nickname already,Flat Black Betty. Check under the tank to make sure the frame tubes are still there. I like to pull the countershaft sprocket cover off to make sure the cases haven't been holed and repaired there.  Always fun to check the frame and engine vin just to see if its a match or marriage.
  I don't see any lowering blocks on the rear shocks.

Motor and frame numbers almost never match. Check to see if motor is of same year as the frame. A good resource:http://www.hondachopper.com

[MauiK3]

A lot of members here like the Delkevic exhaust.
Others are fans of the stock exhaust.
The pods on the carbs make them hard to tune.

[Tracksnblades1]

Looks like she still has a factory kick stand....?
It can't be too low....but it's not leaning over much either...?

[tdskip]

Thanks guys.

Frame and engine numbers are both from a '74, looks to be fairly low in that model year production.

It does seem pretty upright on the kick stand now that you mention it.

So it looks like Delkevic exhaust? Is it normal for that to foul the brake pedal? Can't imagine that would be the case.

How big of an issue will keeping her in good tune be with the current intake set up? I do have access to the factory air box if that is a plus.

Thanks for all of the input and considerations, it is very much appreciated.

[ekpent]

  I had a 750 once that had that exhaust set-up. Seems it may of had a slight fitment issue but can't remember 100%. Here is a picture of the brake pedal on my K4 or 1974. Note how when looking down from the top it has a pronounced flare to the right. Can't tell if yours does from the picture or what part of the pedal is causing the interference.  Add some real foot pegs with rubber to the shopping list also ! Does California require turn signals ?

[Bankerdanny]

I think Maui mentioned the Delkevic as a replacement option (which I 2nd as long as you are OK with a 4-1). It is possible that the exhaust on the bike is a modified original.

IDK what your market is like, but in mine that bike would sell for WELL under $3k.

[ekpent]

  Michigan rust belt pricing  would probably be $900.00 to $1500.00. Condition-condition-condition as they say. California is a different country though   

[tdskip]

Ah - Delkevic as a replacement rather than what is on there, got it, with the assumption being that these need to go?

I will need turn signals.

SoCal prices seem to be a bit steep from what I have seen but I'm still learning. Sounds like the consensus is that near $3,000 this is a bit spendy.

On the exhaust - two things seem to be shaping up

1) The current exhaust would need to either tuck back under the frame (more centered under the bike) or be quite a bit lower. Not sure that either of those would be easily done. EDIT - looking at the picture from @ekpent and others it does seem like this exhaust is sitting too high (above the bottom of the frame, whereas this one is sitting above).

OR

2) might be brake pedal be bent or positioned too low before it engages (there by allowing the pedal to hit the exhaust before it engages)?

What do you think?

[bryanj]

Seat has def been cut down so lower is what i meant

[ekpent]

 The brake pedal can easily be adjusted for less travel engagement either by the nut on the brake rod or moving the brake arm or pedal a notch on the spindle.

[Airborne 82nd]

  I had a 750 once that had that exhaust set-up. Seems it may of had a slight fitment issue but can't remember 100%. Here is a picture of the brake pedal on my K4 or 1974. Note how when looking down from the top it has a pronounced flare to the right. Can't tell if yours does from the picture or what part of the pedal is causing the interference.  Add some real foot pegs with rubber to the shopping list also ! Does California require turn signals ?

I got a big grin when I read that. First thing that came to mind was I thought California required seat belts and a bubble wrap suit. No harm meant to any one who lives there.
@ tdskip 3 K is way to high don't fall in love to fast look around.

[tdskip]

@Airborne_82 - you'd be surprised at what California let's pass, especially on pre-1975 cars. It's the wild west as far as what you can do and no safety inspections, but let's put that aside for now.

Limiting the brake pedal travel would make it easier to lock up the rear brake by mistake, no? Wouldn't getting the exhaust to the right spot or flaring the pedal out away from the exhaust so it doesn't prevent correct pedal movement be the better approach?

Thanks for the coaching, and thoughts on pricing. Not going to leap in on this one.

I do have a second one that I am looking at, which has 2,000 mile on a rebuilt engine which was bored out to be a 832 now. Assuming the work was properly done that should be a plus, right?

Thanks!

[ekpent]

Never heard of an 832 but is probably an 836 if you believe the seller. See if they have any receipts. If it has the correct brake pedal I would try and tweak the pipes first. Pedal too tight without enough travel is not a good thing.
  Got a picture of the second candidate or have we been too harsh already.

[Gene]

I was gonna say that tdskip - we're fine as long as you know your hand signals 

I have a 73 750, all stock. 5' 10" 32 in etc. my feet touch fine. You'll be ok.

Running without a whole lotta work to be done in So Cal 3K is about what you're looking at.

Tighten the brake but not too much and see if that solves the issue.  Hard to say without looking at it in person.

Now that I look a little closer you'd need a new pedal (with the flare out like ekpent said) or new pipes.

I also think with the mods, etc, 3K may be a bit much. I'd spend that if it was all stock in the same condition but there's no telling what else has been done.

[tdskip]

First of all - thanks again for all of the help.

Thanks Gene, I think the first bike needs a new brake pedal and/or the exhaust re-worked. The brake pedal on there now is new and it looks like the wrong one and/or a poor quality part. This one needs a lot now that I made my list up, including tires as well.

Oops - @ekpent it is indeed a 836 and I saw receipts for the work from a well known shop for the work. It has had a lot of money spent on makings it mechanically sorted with one exception - the starter was removed so it needs to be kick started.

[Gene]

Oh, dang, #3. I use my 750 primarily for commuting - freeway use - the 405 or PCH -  but I also rode it to Colorado a couple years ago.

Keep the revs in a normal range and you can do whatever you want with it - around town, longer trips. Try not to do too much stop-and-go since it's air-cooled and the charging systems aren't great.

[tdskip]

Thanks @Gene, I usually do most of my riding when the roads are quieter (usually earlier morning), thanks for the heads-up about stop and go being a consideration.

[scottly]

Skip, what's the deal on the 836 bike? Is this the 76 F you're asking questions about the gearing?

[tdskip]

@scottly - yep, you nailed it. Didn't realize that there was difference between the K and F.

Apparently the F handles a bit differently and is more "sport" oriented. I like the idea of the disc brakes and some extra punch but wondering if the K is more comfortable for longer rides.

Any thoughts / experiences to share?

Can you tell I am hooked already?

[scottly]

There are not any major differences between any of the 750s from a riding point of view, but there are differences in brakes, carbs, exhaust, colors, etc. Post pics and price of what you've found and we'll try to help you spend your money wisely (or at least as wisely as one can spend on a vintage motorcycle )
I would not pay 3K for the 74 myself.