Author Topic: '73 cb350f siezed barn find! (Read 18431 times)

574hondarider · « **Reply #125 on:** March 09, 2020, 05:23:45 AM »

Engine Is In!!! All wired up, drive chain installed and adjusted, carbs in and hydrated, exhaust installed. Now just gotta get the clutch cable, throttle cables, and front brake installed, tidy up a few misc things, and she will be good to go for a first start in 40 years!!! I'm off Friday so hoping that will be the big day for me.

Mark1976 · « **Reply #126 on:** March 09, 2020, 06:12:43 AM »

Looking great, keep up the good work.

jakec · « **Reply #127 on:** March 09, 2020, 11:08:11 AM »

Damn I need to step it. Did you split the cases?

574hondarider · « **Reply #128 on:** March 09, 2020, 12:53:28 PM »

Quote from: jakec on March 09, 2020, 11:08:11 AM

Damn I need to step it. Did you split the cases?

No, just top end, oil pump rebuild and new clutch. Get on it, spring's coming!!!

jakec · « **Reply #129 on:** March 09, 2020, 01:00:49 PM »

I know! I've been procrastinating big time. Your bike's looking great

WhyNot2 · « **Reply #130 on:** March 10, 2020, 03:34:08 AM »

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^........me too......^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

574hondarider · « **Reply #131 on:** March 11, 2020, 05:38:52 AM »

Got handlebars cut (1/2" too long on ends) and installed grips, clutch and throttle cables.

Question: I have adjusted the clutch cable and clutch adjustment to spec. However, when I'm going through the gears, I can hear a click with the foot shifter but it doesn't actually switch gears until you rotate the wheel a little. Also, with the clutch pulled back, there is a lot more resistance on the wheel when spinning the wheel than what is on my other cb350f (I understand with the clutch lever engaged it's not going to be as free as being in neutral). So, the clutch adjustment nut was screwed in until tight then backed off 1/4 of a turn. Which way would I go to make the clutch engage more? Is this what needs to happen, or is it just because I have brand new oem honda clutch plates and oem honda springs and I need to ride it and it will wear in?

BTW, still haven't started it. I have to just adjust plug gaps and do a points adjustment then I will try to fire her up! Also still need to install the front brakes before I drive it.

Mark1976 · « **Reply #132 on:** March 11, 2020, 06:46:42 AM »

So, first things first.
Its called rebuild anxiety, finish what you started.
Get the front brake finished, that way once you pull the trigger and start your project for the 1st time you'll be able to set the dwell, timing and sync the the carbs and take out for a shake down ride.
Your not going to be able to diagnose the clutch until you do that, its possible that there maybe an issue but, i doubt it, you attention to detail on this build has been very good. A new clutch can have a significant amount of drag when initially installed and that can affect static shifting (when its not running). The only thing that comes to mind when reinstalling a new clutch that some people miss, is reinstalling the belleville washer the wrong way.
If there is still an issue with clutch drag after that, pulling the clutch cover is really minor, I had a Barnett clutch years ago that was a real bear to initially set up on a previous 400f. Anything is possible when you attack this many things at one time. Get it running, take it for a spin, go from there.
Just my two cents.

574hondarider · « **Reply #133 on:** March 11, 2020, 07:55:31 AM »

Quote from: Mark1976 on March 11, 2020, 06:46:42 AM

So, first things first.
Its called rebuild anxiety, finish what you started.
Get the front brake finished, that way once you pull the trigger and start your project for the 1st time you'll be able to set the dwell, timing and sync the the carbs and take out for a shake down ride.
Your not going to be able to diagnose the clutch until you do that, its possible that there maybe an issue but, i doubt it, you attention to detail on this build has been very good. A new clutch can have a significant amount of drag when initially installed and that can affect static shifting (when its not running). The only thing that comes to mind when reinstalling a new clutch that some people miss, is reinstalling the belleville washer the wrong way.
If there is still an issue with clutch drag after that, pulling the clutch cover is really minor, I had a Barnett clutch years ago that was a real bear to initially set up on a previous 400f. Anything is possible when you attack this many things at one time. Get it running, take it for a spin, go from there.
Just my two cents.

Thanks Mark! Yeah, lots of anxiety over this build!! I don't recall this one having a cupped washer, just a flat one, but could be wrong (hope not!). This is all new territory for me. So would I have time then to sync the carbs before seating in the rings, or jump on it and get some revs in and then come back and sync, since it's supposed to be done on a warm engine? I'm probably over thinking it, to be honest. :-)

Mark1976 · « **Reply #134 on:** March 11, 2020, 09:21:00 AM »

You've done a really good job, its normal to feel that way. If you've bench sync'd the carbs real well and done a good job of statically setting the ignition, it'll start right up. Once it starts let it warm up a bit 2-3 minutes. (have a fan fan on hand if your concerned about how hot it may get)
Do the dwell (gap) and timing first, l always have the timing light and dwell meter already hooked up, by the time your done with that it ought idle fine, if you have any issues with the idle, (ie. high or hanging idle) deal with it now, then hook up what ever you have for syncing the carbs, again, if the bench sync is good they'll be remarkably close. Once thats done (hypothetically) your good to go.
I've had bikes, on first start and the timing is set, then just go for that first ride. If you've spent that extra effort when assembling and setting it up it can be a relatively uncomplicated process. Keep it up.

574hondarider · « **Reply #135 on:** March 13, 2020, 05:54:22 PM »

Today I got to start and ride the bike!!

The Good: I put about 15 miles on it and she runs great! Started right away, pulls better and shifts tighter and smoother than my other 350F. Had some good pulls to about 7000 rpms.

The not so Good: I haven't synced the carbs yet besides bench sync. I can tell it needs it as it has a bit of erratic idle which I know a sync will fix. I noticed some cam chain noise so I adjusted it out a little bit. After doing so I noticed a bit of smoke coming from the exhaust, not billowing smoke, but enough to notice and when I parked it in the garage and came back a few minutes later I could smell that it had burnt some oil.

The funny: I had switched the dummy lights for neutral and oil light, so immediately when the oil light didn't go out I thought I had a pressure issue, sent me into an hour long tail spin, until I noticed the neutral light going out occasionally, and I realized I switched the wiring around!!!

Next steps: Sync the carbs. I'm not sure if that smoke will go away with a carb sync, or if it needs more miles until the rings seat, or if it is a sign of things to come....I'm hoping it just goes away. No oil leaking from any other area that I can see. Also should probably peak at the plugs to see how they are doing. Any other thoughts??

Thanks to everyone who helped me with my first full scale rebuild!! Without this forum, and youtube, there is no way I would have had the confidence to do a project like this!! My technical skills has increased 10 fold in the last 6 months and now I don't feel afraid to tackle any project with these old bikes!

Mark1976 · « **Reply #136 on:** March 13, 2020, 06:20:31 PM »

Congrats on finishing and taking that first ride, it was really great watching this come together, these small bore bikes are plenty of fun.

jakec · « **Reply #137 on:** March 13, 2020, 06:42:36 PM »

I thought you were supposed to keep the RPMs down for like 500 miles?

Bike looks awesome.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #138 on:** March 13, 2020, 07:18:33 PM »

Quote from: jakec on March 13, 2020, 06:42:36 PM

I thought you were supposed to keep the RPMs down for like 500 miles?

Bike looks awesome.

7000 rpm is pretty low for those little screamers

WhyNot2 · « **Reply #139 on:** March 14, 2020, 04:24:01 AM »

Bike looks great.

Especially like those pipes. Did you have any trouble installing them?

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #140 on:** March 14, 2020, 07:55:15 PM »

Nominated for BOTM. Can someone second it?

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180400.0.html

574hondarider · « **Reply #141 on:** March 15, 2020, 04:22:29 PM »

Quote from: Mark1976 on March 13, 2020, 06:20:31 PM

Congrats on finishing and taking that first ride, it was really great watching this come together, these small bore bikes are plenty of fun.

Thanks!! And thank you for all your suggestions and encouragement! I love the sound these little 4's make!

574hondarider · « **Reply #142 on:** March 15, 2020, 04:24:22 PM »

Quote from: WhyNot2 on March 14, 2020, 04:24:01 AM

Bike looks great.

Especially like those pipes. Did you have any trouble installing them?

Thanks! No trouble, they installed really easily. The only thing I don't like is I cannot remove the front motor mount to adjust my aftermarket ttr400 cam chain tensioner, so I have to adjust using the standard old one. Header from cylinder 2 is in my way...

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #143 on:** March 16, 2020, 03:35:10 PM »

Hey there, 574!

Your build has been nominated and seconded for BOTM. Please post that you "accept" the nomination in the following thread: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180400.0.html

574hondarider · « **Reply #144 on:** March 26, 2020, 12:50:07 PM »

Well, you may want to pull my nomination for BOTM.

The bike burns oil and smokes more than my weber does! I've got consistant compression and the engine pulls good and sounds great, but I believe oil is getting by the crusin image oil rings. I burned a 1/2 quart of oil in 40 miles!! Blueish smoke coming from the exhaust and the crank case breather. Total I have ridden her 100 miles trying to break in, with a lot of good pulls to about 7000 and engine breaking. The bike hasn't leaked 1 drop of oil anywhere, so I am bummed to have to tear it down. Current plans are to source some NOS std. size rings and put them on the CI pistons.

I would appreiate any suggestions/magic/voodoo to not have to do this.

Mark1976 · « **Reply #145 on:** March 26, 2020, 01:52:56 PM »

lets start with,
what are the compression numbers... what do the plugs look like.
Then if you do need to pull the top end, get out the note book and camera and start with checking the rings, pistons and bores. measure it all, double check everything. See what ya have first, then start making decisions. One thing at a time. a week or two later and it'll be a distant memory.

jakec · « **Reply #146 on:** March 26, 2020, 02:44:53 PM »

I just went back through the thread and I did not see you state what size of pistons you got. If you're looking for OEM rings I'm assuming you did not overbore. I would have thought that was necessary considering the pistons were seized when you got the bike.

calj737 · « **Reply #147 on:** March 26, 2020, 03:25:24 PM »

Quote from: 574hondarider on March 26, 2020, 12:50:07 PM

The bike burns oil and smokes more than my weber does! I've got consistant compression and the engine pulls good and sounds great, but I believe oil is getting by the crusin image oil rings.

Typical. CI rings on the small Fours is a perpetual issue. Every time someone rebuilds theirs and uses that brand, bingo! Smoke city.

Pull the pistons, rings and throw them in the trash. No amount of handling will fix them. Sorry for your rotten luck-

jakec · « **Reply #148 on:** March 26, 2020, 04:16:00 PM »

I have heard directly contradicting info here, Mark suggested that I get CI kit for my 400 only a month ago.

Mark1976 · « **Reply #149 on:** March 26, 2020, 05:05:44 PM »

It is, what it is. take it apart, go from there... ya gotta start some where... look at the upside, your familiar with it.

News:

Author Topic: '73 cb350f siezed barn find! (Read 18431 times)